Clutch not engaging/disengaging Rhino

Bad_Decisions · 12-10-2019, 07:54 PM

Hey guys, just bought a Rhino 250 used. After getting it home and taking it for a spin it took about 7 minutes before the clutch cable broke and it seemed liked the clutch didn't downshift as I was trying at the moment. I notice the lever moved very little. I changed the clutch cable and still the lever seems as if it does nothing. I took apart the the clutch, didn't see anything except the clutch pedal seems to slide left to right a little. I feel like the clutch pin does nothing. Any ideas? Thanks.

Bad_Decisions · 12-16-2019, 06:45 AM

So nobody here has any idea or suggestion about this issue?

Mudflap · 12-16-2019, 07:29 AM

Difficult to figure out what you mean by clutch peddle not downshifting, pin. etc.. Try to describe it better and I and others may be able to help.

franque · 12-16-2019, 07:37 AM

Also, take pictures/a video of what you're describing.

Bad_Decisions · 12-16-2019, 06:02 PM

I put it back together so will dismantle again over the weekend for more images. The gear shifter, doesn't function more than likely because of the clutch. The pin I am referring to looks like the one in this image(although this is from a Service Manual for the CG-125/150 since no manuals are available for Rhino 250's). It's the pin sticking out of the plate on the coils springs. If I pull the clutch lever that the cable connects to at the motor it moves only about 1/4". When I opened it I see that the pin has something to do with that lever as the lever has a little arm with an indention that touches that pin. The clutch pack looks good, so not sure what the heck is going on.

Bad_Decisions · 12-20-2019, 05:12 PM

Here is the pin I was referring to. There is also a picture of the lever that the end of the clutch cable pull to engage this pin. Was messing around with the clutch foot pedal with the housing apart and it seems to go into just 3 gears before it locks up. Also wondering if the gear shaft is suppose to turn about 1/4 way in both directions. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vesg6WxT4UcQ1r6VA

Red Hawk · 12-20-2019, 05:41 PM

I think I know

The clutch cable attaches to the arm. The arm when pulled pivots the shaft down through the case side. Look at where it’s riveted to the shaft. If the riveted connection changes it’s “clocked” position it will louse pull and manifest as a short throw or needs more throw to disengage.
Of course this is what I get looking at a picture so I could be WAY off.

franque · 12-20-2019, 06:35 PM

The way the shift arm turns is normal. The clutch arm on the clutch cover looks weird though, normally there is a machined recess for the clutch pushrod to ride in, it looked like the lever was missing that, it looks possible that the clutch pushrod might slip off the clutch arm.

On taking a second look, it looks normal.

I would almost look at getting a new clutch side cover, if you got one for a CB125 off of eBay, that should work, or you could try to replace the clutch arm, that might work, too; if you want, I could try to dig up a Honda part number for you. If the countershaft isn't turning, it won't shift beyond a gear or two, and if the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging properly, it won't shift well.

Are you absolutely sure that the clutch is correctly, and that the replacement clutch lever has sufficient travel? You might need a lever with a different pivot point.

Bad_Decisions · 12-20-2019, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

Are you absolutely sure that the clutch is correctly, and that the replacement clutch lever has sufficient travel? You might need a lever with a different pivot point.

I am not sure. It was used when I bought it so no telling what went on. When I rode it briefly before the bale snapped it did seem like it was a bit hard to shift. It was wen I was down shifting that the cable broke.

There is a video on that link as well of me turning the crankshaft. Is it normal for it to turn that much? What I am ultimately wondering is if it's a gear that is the problem. Didn't want to have to split the motor open, so trying all the options before I attempt that. There is literally nobody where I am that works on these things. So it's up to me with my limited knowledge on the subject.

Red Hawk · 12-20-2019, 08:04 PM

I just got a new Rhino, I can take pictures if ya need to compare parts too. I think there a few guys here with them, post where your close to and see if someone can look at it?

Also !! The clutch pack bolts are they bolts AND washers or combo ONE piece heads. It almost looks like some one added washers to change the spring pressure on the plates.

Bad_Decisions · 12-21-2019, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Hawk

Also !! The clutch pack bolts are they bolts AND washers or combo ONE piece heads. It almost looks like some one added washers to change the spring pressure on the plates.

Good eye. It's a bolt and washer and the reason is the first time I took it apart I needed up over torquing the bolt/ Snapped it off right in there. Had to drill it out and could not find the bolt/washer combo. What's on there now measures the same with the washer.

Bad_Decisions · 12-21-2019, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Hawk

I just got a new Rhino, I can take pictures if ya need to compare parts too. I think there a few guys here with them, post where your close to and see if someone can look at it?

That would be awesome. I am in Clermont, FL. There are a couple of Chinese atv/scooter dealers here. Called and they din't know what the Rhino was, then told them it's a 250 and they said it's too big. Another dealer/service center pretentiously stated they refuse to work on Tao Tao.... only will work on Coolster.

franque · 12-21-2019, 06:29 AM

I'd check clutch adjustment. It might be that the pivot point isn't allowing enough travel, but clutch adjustment would be my first priority. You should have around 1/8" of freeplay at the point where the clutch lever attaches to the perch.

In the video, you're not turning the crankshaft, you're turning the mainshaft on the transmission. As long as the countershaft (sprocket side) isn't hooked up to anything, with the way you have it disassembled, it will spin freely, that's normal.

The washers could have been added, but without measuring the steels and clutch plates, I would assume that the clutch is fine, even if there was increased clamping load added through some washers. If the steels look cooked (like they turned blue), maybe just try putting in a new clutch?

https://www.powersportsmax.com/produ...ducts_id/13137

franque · 12-21-2019, 06:30 AM

Just check adjustment first. If I were you, I'd put it back together, using proper torque values. Don't ham fist anything, you'll just make it worse.

Bad_Decisions · 12-21-2019, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

Just check adjustment first. If I were you, I'd put it back together, using proper torque values. Don't ham fist anything, you'll just make it worse.

Any idea of the proper torquer values? I am tempted to just try a new clutch but upon further examining the damn thing looks brand new. Also not sure what clutch I see them from $27-$70+ and they all look the same.

12-10-2019, 07:54 PM	#1
Bad_Decisions Join Date: Dec 2019 Posts: 23	Clutch not engaging/disengaging Rhino Hey guys, just bought a Rhino 250 used. After getting it home and taking it for a spin it took about 7 minutes before the clutch cable broke and it seemed liked the clutch didn't downshift as I was trying at the moment. I notice the lever moved very little. I changed the clutch cable and still the lever seems as if it does nothing. I took apart the the clutch, didn't see anything except the clutch pedal seems to slide left to right a little. I feel like the clutch pin does nothing. Any ideas? Thanks.
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12-20-2019, 05:12 PM	#6
Bad_Decisions Join Date: Dec 2019 Posts: 23	Pictures of the mysterious pin Here is the pin I was referring to. There is also a picture of the lever that the end of the clutch cable pull to engage this pin. Was messing around with the clutch foot pedal with the housing apart and it seems to go into just 3 gears before it locks up. Also wondering if the gear shaft is suppose to turn about 1/4 way in both directions. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vesg6WxT4UcQ1r6VA
	0

12-20-2019, 05:41 PM	#7
Red Hawk Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: NEPA Posts: 273	I think I know The clutch cable attaches to the arm. The arm when pulled pivots the shaft down through the case side. Look at where it’s riveted to the shaft. If the riveted connection changes it’s “clocked” position it will louse pull and manifest as a short throw or needs more throw to disengage. Of course this is what I get looking at a picture so I could be WAY off. __________________ 2018 Hawk P&P Decked .040 off the head. 17/43 D.I.D. 428, NGK Iridium plug, DeCat, Wrapped pipe, Custom S.S. Muffler core, Nibbi PE30 115/35, L.E.D. Lights, Digital Cluster, USB port, Cutting Bord skid plate, Oil cooler w/ custom CRF oil filter inline, 5Wt fork oil, Rear Shock, CNC Back Rack, 30mm FAT bars, Bark Busters, ProGrips, Adjustable levers, Shinko 700’s lots of Loctite!
	1

12-20-2019, 06:35 PM	#8
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	The way the shift arm turns is normal. The clutch arm on the clutch cover looks weird though, normally there is a machined recess for the clutch pushrod to ride in, it looked like the lever was missing that, it looks possible that the clutch pushrod might slip off the clutch arm. On taking a second look, it looks normal. I would almost look at getting a new clutch side cover, if you got one for a CB125 off of eBay, that should work, or you could try to replace the clutch arm, that might work, too; if you want, I could try to dig up a Honda part number for you. If the countershaft isn't turning, it won't shift beyond a gear or two, and if the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging properly, it won't shift well. Are you absolutely sure that the clutch is correctly, and that the replacement clutch lever has sufficient travel? You might need a lever with a different pivot point. Last edited by franque; 12-20-2019 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Edit
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12-20-2019, 08:04 PM	#10
Red Hawk Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: NEPA Posts: 273	I just got a new Rhino, I can take pictures if ya need to compare parts too. I think there a few guys here with them, post where your close to and see if someone can look at it? Also !! The clutch pack bolts are they bolts AND washers or combo ONE piece heads. It almost looks like some one added washers to change the spring pressure on the plates. __________________ 2018 Hawk P&P Decked .040 off the head. 17/43 D.I.D. 428, NGK Iridium plug, DeCat, Wrapped pipe, Custom S.S. Muffler core, Nibbi PE30 115/35, L.E.D. Lights, Digital Cluster, USB port, Cutting Bord skid plate, Oil cooler w/ custom CRF oil filter inline, 5Wt fork oil, Rear Shock, CNC Back Rack, 30mm FAT bars, Bark Busters, ProGrips, Adjustable levers, Shinko 700’s lots of Loctite! Last edited by Red Hawk; 12-20-2019 at 08:13 PM. Reason: After thought.
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12-16-2019, 06:45 AM	#2
Bad_Decisions Join Date: Dec 2019 Posts: 23	So nobody here has any idea or suggestion about this issue?
	0

12-16-2019, 07:29 AM	#3
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,894	Difficult to figure out what you mean by clutch peddle not downshifting, pin. etc.. Try to describe it better and I and others may be able to help.
	0

12-16-2019, 07:37 AM	#4
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Also, take pictures/a video of what you're describing.
	0

12-16-2019, 06:02 PM	#5
Bad_Decisions Join Date: Dec 2019 Posts: 23	I put it back together so will dismantle again over the weekend for more images. The gear shifter, doesn't function more than likely because of the clutch. The pin I am referring to looks like the one in this image(although this is from a Service Manual for the CG-125/150 since no manuals are available for Rhino 250's). It's the pin sticking out of the plate on the coils springs. If I pull the clutch lever that the cable connects to at the motor it moves only about 1/4". When I opened it I see that the pin has something to do with that lever as the lever has a little arm with an indention that touches that pin. The clutch pack looks good, so not sure what the heck is going on.
	0

12-21-2019, 06:29 AM	#13
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I'd check clutch adjustment. It might be that the pivot point isn't allowing enough travel, but clutch adjustment would be my first priority. You should have around 1/8" of freeplay at the point where the clutch lever attaches to the perch. In the video, you're not turning the crankshaft, you're turning the mainshaft on the transmission. As long as the countershaft (sprocket side) isn't hooked up to anything, with the way you have it disassembled, it will spin freely, that's normal. The washers could have been added, but without measuring the steels and clutch plates, I would assume that the clutch is fine, even if there was increased clamping load added through some washers. If the steels look cooked (like they turned blue), maybe just try putting in a new clutch? https://www.powersportsmax.com/produ...ducts_id/13137
	0

12-21-2019, 06:30 AM	#14
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Just check adjustment first. If I were you, I'd put it back together, using proper torque values. Don't ham fist anything, you'll just make it worse.
	0