TBR7 Fork Oil Change Vid

[kingofqueenz]

Greetings colleagues, just posted a Fork Oil change video for my TBR7, finally dumped the stock oil and filled with BelRay 15w.

Posting the vid here is less about self promotion and more about any opinions, comments or otherwise on the process, torque specs etc.

No inflammatory language is used in the video.

[alex_in_az]

thanks for the video, I'm thinking about changing my fork oil as well. Did you notice any difference in the handling of the bike with the new oil?

[kingofqueenz]

Alex, apologies as the bike is up on cinder blocks still with a laundry list left to do before de-winterizing and getting back on the road.

I will report back in the coming weeks once I get her on the road.

However I will say, the stock oil that ships with it had the consistency of oil, where as the BELRAY had more of a consistency of ATF.

Now I know why people use ATF

[koolavz]

I will have to try this when I go to change my oil and check valves again. I saw motocheez did a video on doing it for the hawk, is it pretty much the same process? Definitely let us know how she feels once you get her back on the road.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by kingofqueenz

Alex, apologies as the bike is up on cinder blocks still with a laundry list left to do before de-winterizing and getting back on the road.

I will report back in the coming weeks once I get her on the road.

However I will say, the stock oil that ships with it had the consistency of oil, where as the BELRAY had more of a consistency of ATF.

Now I know why people use ATF

ATF was actually the recommended fluid by Honda and other manufacturers back in the day. It is actually fairly ideal in terms of fork fluid due to the high level of anti-foaming agents in it and generally the visocisty consistency of 5w to 10w oil. Fork oil came along to address the needs of more high performance suspensions where better anti-foaming properties under higher temps were needed as well as better viscosity stability. ATF sacrifices some of that due to the high level of detergent packages it also tends to have.

Also, reasons to use a "waterproof" grease on your wheel axles instead of anti-seize. 1. It doesn't wash off as easily. 2. Anti-seize when used around bearings can sometimes cause migration past a bad bearing seal and the metal particulate in anti-seize will potentially shorten bearing life. We are talking nitpicky levels here, but just wanted to share anyway.

Tip. Loosen the top triple clamp before trying to crack the fork cap loose, not after. The pressure of the clamp will put pressure on the threads and potentially do damage. Just crack the clamp bolt loose, you don't need to remove it.


Lastly, thank you for showing the proper way to drain the oil. So many people remove the damping rod retaining bolt on the bottom, and that causes nothing but problems.

[kingofqueenz]

Dan,

Super thankful for your feedback.

I went with waterproof grease on the front axle as you recommend.

To be perfectly honest, your video is what I followed to change the fork oil ( the THANKS goes to you ).

As we speak I am doing the valve lash adjustment for the first time and greasing the upper shock bolt\bearing, lower shock bolt bearing, swing arm bolt bearing ... ALL BONE DRY.

Will grease the chain and then hopefully start 'er up for the first time since her winter slumber.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by kingofqueenz

Dan,

Super thankful for your feedback.

I went with waterproof grease on the front axle as you recommend.

To be perfectly honest, your video is what I followed to change the fork oil ( the THANKS goes to you ).

As we speak I am doing the valve lash adjustment for the first time and greasing the upper shock bolt\bearing, lower shock bolt bearing, swing arm bolt bearing ... ALL BONE DRY.

Will grease the chain and then hopefully start 'er up for the first time since her winter slumber.

I appreciate the recognition. You could always toss a link to my video in your description if you want. The more the right kind of info is shared, the better off we all are in the end.

You are doing what I like to call my post winter start of the season prep. I take the bike apart, go over everything, clean, grease, lube, or otherwise check pivots and critical parts, change fluids, and just get it ready for the year.

Toss in a spoke check while you are at it.

[paulsstag]

Originally Posted by kingofqueenz

Dan,

Super thankful for your feedback.

I went with waterproof grease on the front axle as you recommend.

To be perfectly honest, your video is what I followed to change the fork oil ( the THANKS goes to you ).

As we speak I am doing the valve lash adjustment for the first time and greasing the upper shock bolt\bearing, lower shock bolt bearing, swing arm bolt bearing ... ALL BONE DRY.

Will grease the chain and then hopefully start 'er up for the first time since her winter slumber.

Another tip for servicing the drive chain that my dad taught me years ago that seems to work:

Use for non o'ring/ x'ring chains ie the cheap ones used on the china bikes.

Take off the drive chain and lay it in a clean, metal container (an old pot that is being thrown out or a coffee can ( they all seem to be plastic now ?) poor in some engine oil (enough to cover)( new or used) heat up the chain/oil/can till its over 200 degrees and let it cool down on its own. The thin oil will get in everywhere.

At this point you could leave your chain in its bath all winter/ storage time. dry your chain off with a rag (i let mine hang to get the oil off )and put it back on the bike . once back on your bike you can now put on your chain wax or prefered lubricant which basically seals in the oil that is in every part of the chain.In my mind the chain waxes are too thick and are designed to turn tacky so it does not fling off.

I will do this when the bike is brand new and whenever i do a big service.

Those that have bought expensive chains will know that they are assembled with quality lubricant/ grease so this is not necessary but at best the cheap factory chain may have traces of machine oil .

Less chain stretch and a longer life ( for free ) ( china riders like free )

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by paulsstag

Another tip for servicing the drive chain that my dad taught me years ago that seems to work:

Use for non o'ring/ x'ring chains ie the cheap ones used on the china bikes.

Take off the drive chain and lay it in a clean, metal container (an old pot that is being thrown out or a coffee can ( they all seem to be plastic now ?) poor in some engine oil (enough to cover)( new or used) heat up the chain/oil/can till its over 200 degrees and let it cool down on its own. The thin oil will get in everywhere.

At this point you could leave your chain in its bath all winter/ storage time. dry your chain off with a rag (i let mine hang to get the oil off )and put it back on the bike . once back on your bike you can now put on your chain wax or prefered lubricant which basically seals in the oil that is in every part of the chain.In my mind the chain waxes are too thick and are designed to turn tacky so it does not fling off.

I will do this when the bike is brand new and whenever i do a big service.

Those that have bought expensive chains will know that they are assembled with quality lubricant/ grease so this is not necessary but at best the cheap factory chain may have traces of machine oil .

Less chain stretch and a longer life ( for free ) ( china riders like free )

I do the same except with synthetic gear oil. Either one will work. The main thing is to lube the chain inside and out even when new. The chain will last much longer.

[kingofqueenz]

sound suggestions...especially as I am still running the stock chain.

thanks gentlemen

[Megadan]

Alternative option to the old pot or coffee tin would be to go to the local thrift store and see if you can get your hands on an old fryer for cheap. I have one that I use for heating up bearings to fit on to gearbox and transfer case shafts, but the same basic idea applies. Fill with oil, add chain, turn on heat (lower setting recommended as cooking fryers can go pretty hot). This way you can keep the lady in your life happy by not cooking chains and car parts on the stove and making it stinky in her house by plugging it in outside.

[Kenstogie]

awesome video..... truly.

what weight of oil should you use for a 190 lbs rider... any suggestions?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Kenstogie

awesome video..... truly.

what weight of oil should you use for a 190 lbs rider... any suggestions?

It's not really the weight of the rider that determines the oil viscosity. It's the performance of the suspension that you would fine tune with it. A heavier oil means slower compression and rebound.

I always tell people to start with 15wt to see how the bike handles and performs and then adjust from there. If you ride somewhere with a lot of bumps, I would say 10 weight.

[Kenstogie]

Originally Posted by Megadan

It's not really the weight of the rider that determines the oil viscosity. It's the performance of the suspension that you would fine tune with it. A heavier oil means slower compression and rebound.

I always tell people to start with 15wt to see how the bike handles and performs and then adjust from there. If you ride somewhere with a lot of bumps, I would say 10 weight.

thanks Dan....

[kingofqueenz]

Indeed, the majority of my riding is street and I'm 210-215, 15wt seems like the best option for me