So can I start the Brozz yet? Looking for a vote here.

[gwowzer]

Been working on assembling the 2020 Brozz. I think mine may have been the first delivered in the country, but the last to start because of my OCD issues.
So far, I've removed front forks, changed the oil in them. Greased the front axle during assembly. I have adjusted the valves to the specifications (btw I think it would help a lot of new assemblers to specify when we speak of this if we are referring to inches or mm).
I adjusted the clutch, throttle, and front brake freeplay through a combo of the chinglish translation of the manual and reading the CSC tt250 manuals online. (Those helped a ton with things and easy to read fyi).
I swapped in a led headlight instead of the stock one before installing the housing.
New NGK sparkplug has been installed.
Changed the motor oil twice. Emptied the stock oil, filled it with rotella t4, let it sit overnight, drained, and filled again with rotella.
I drained front and rear braking sytems and filled and bled with a high quality dot 3.
Took off the swingarm assembly, greased the bolt, greased the shock bolt and bushings, greased the rear wheel assembly ( greased the rear axle too but then discovered probably wasn't needed).
Aligned the chain and rear wheel as best I could by sight. Looks straight to me as best I can tell.
Filled the tires to 30 psi and they are holding.
Filled the battery with acid and it was on trickle charger for two days. Installed it and ran the vent tube.
Went over as many wire harness connectors as possible and waterproofed, sealed, zip tied and cleaned as much as possible. Every connector got a dab of Vaseline.
Every bolt or screw I touched got blue lock tight and torqued to spec including axle nuts (almost used red on the axle stuff but thought that may be too much).
Put one gallon of Stabil Marine treated 93 octane in it.
Things I have not done:
Completely remove drive chain and soak in gear oil.
Coat back of brake pads with brake grease
Checked spoke tension or wheel trueness. The torque wrench kit is $90 bucks
I'm sure there is some other stuff. I would like feedback on anything I am overlooking. I want the bike to be done done before I fire it off!
So by vote, is she ready to go, am I missing anything, etc., etc. Thanks guys!

[Merlin]

Ya start it your ready.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by gwowzer

Things I have not done:
Completely remove drive chain and soak in gear oil.
Coat back of brake pads with brake grease
Checked spoke tension or wheel trueness. The torque wrench kit is $90 bucks

In order.

You don't have to completely remove the chain, just lube it well and keep up on maintenance. As far as I know the Brozz comes with a better quality chain than the Hawks. Now, if you have the ability to remove the chain and do so, it can't hurt.

Don't ever coat the back of brake pads, or the slide pins, with any sort of grease. Ever.

You don't need a spoke torque wrench to check and tighten up the spokes or true a wheel. Just get a good spoke wrench and when you tap the spokes you will want to hear as close to a middle C note in pitch as you can when you tap the spoke. That is usually more than sufficient tension.

After a few hundred miles I highly suggest you go back and check those spokes again. More than a few will have loosened up in that time. After that it isn't a bad idea to make spoke checks at least a semi-regular maintenance routine. I generally at least give them a quick tap check every 1000 miles (listening for that C note).

[Its_not_a_honda]

Did you check the blinker fluid? How about the muffler bearings? JUST KIDDING! Sounds like you have it covered. I don't know about the grease on the brake pads(?). Do you mean the stuff you put on the back of car brake pads to keep them from squealing? I really don't think you should put anything on these motorcycle brakes. Might not end well.

[Spins]

Fire it up!

[Its_not_a_honda]

I forgot to vote!
YES

[A1R 250 bob]

Fire it up. You may have to re-jet the carburetor. You won't know until you fire it up.

[Kenstogie]

So I am much like you... in fact I got my TBR7 on the 4th? and have been going through the bike and haven't started it yet... (been away for work for the last week though) I have done or will be doing everything you've done
I did swap to a VM26 Carb and rejetted to 110 main


I found on the TBR7 the clutch cable adjustment a pain to get to on the trans side.... I assume the Brozz is the same any tricks on that?

adjusted the valves to the specifications (btw I think it would help a lot of new assemblers to specify when we speak of this if we are referring to inches or mm). I totally agree here... for me my assumption is all measurements are in mm but I think some here were mixing them or incorrectly indicating mm when it was inches or vice versa

[cycleway4]

yes,...ready to run. no,...no brake grease anywhere.

I don't believe I would fuss with the chain, either...just be sure to keep proper adjustment, lubed,...and not too tight.

[franque]

Yeah, you've been pretty thorough, perhaps too thorough with the two oil changes, but it won't hurt anything. Normally you'd want to do a couple during break in, anyway, I'd probably change that oil after 100 miles or so. For the valve specs, it is .05-.1 mm or .002-.004 in.

[gwowzer]

Fired right up this morning! Took two tries. The first I had the choke all the way on and it wouldn't start. Second it fired right up with no choke. Tach indicates it is idling at 1000... I've seen should be 1500 so I turned the screw in just slightly. I have an inductive tach that wraps around the plug wire I'll mess with this afternoon. Should I be shooting for 1500?
And by grease on the brakes, yes I meant the stuff you put on car brakes to prevent squeals... I've always done that and greased caliper pins as good practice, but apparently does not apply to bikes.
Another thing is the cables. I purchased some cable lube type as per recommended on here by Megadan. Do I need to pull the sheathing back or just give a few squirts at the end into the sheathing?
Rode it up the street and back at about 25 max. Neutral was hard at first and shifting felt slightly clunky then seemed to get smoother, I'm assuming the clutch discs started to lube. Am I correct that the shifter will get smoother as I ride?
So the real downside of all this is the BMVs in Ohio are closed until who knows when so I can't get it registered or plated for I guess forever. Pretty bummed I can't go practice riding at a controlled environment for a while.
I really hope the Motorcycle classes I signed up for aren't cancelled. They are mid April.
Overall I'd say startup went great! Just want to make sure I get all the bases covered. Plus I'll get bored not riding it so little to do lists are beneficial at the moment.
Oh and yes the clutch was fiddly and involved me second guessing quite a bit, I did find a YouTube video something along the lines of adjust any clutch in 60 seconds and that particular video I found helpful.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Kenstogie

adjusted the valves to the specifications (btw I think it would help a lot of new assemblers to specify when we speak of this if we are referring to inches or mm). I totally agree here... for me my assumption is all measurements are in mm but I think some here were mixing them or incorrectly indicating mm when it was inches or vice versa

Please be so kind as to point out whom this is and where it is so it can be corrected.

[Kenstogie]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Please be so kind as to point out whom this is and where it is so it can be corrected.

Hey Dan.....i dont remember specifically where or what post... so maybe it was me misinterpreted info..(i have read soooo many of these threads)

though i did help my buddy dave do a valve adjustment on a vstrom this would be my first solo valve adjustment and i was under the impression that the inch measurement was metric....

i applaud your diligence to making sure there is accurate info around here....:

[gwowzer]

Oh man the valve reference is everywhere. Multiple people multiple times. I can't remember specifically but there are a lot of posts where some interpretation is needed.
Even some YouTube videos as well searching hawk 250 valve adjustment or something of the like. Some people give the inch measurement and then say mm or not specify which they are speaking of.
Be a lot to try and track it all down.
Maybe just a note for everybody to try and write in. or mm. after they state numbers

[Megadan]

Oh well, I tried. I always make sure to state mm or in. when I talk about valve specs, usually listing both in equivalence. Often people misread those specs too.