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Old 02-26-2021, 07:00 PM   #1
Bill Hilly   Bill Hilly is offline
 
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A few Brozz questions

I have been riding my new Brozz250 up, and down the road a few times a day in an effort to relearn how to ride. It had been so long since I had been on a bike ,that I was shakey, and nervous, especially at real slow speed. I am far more confident now that I have gotten somewhat used to the bike. It seems like the bike has good power for what it is, but is a little clunky when I shift gears. It shifts fine, and I don't have the trouble finding neutral that some have. It just seems like it engages a little hard when releasing the clutch on up shifts. I have the idle sat at 1500. Is this normal for a small bike ? ,or am I doing something wrong? It seems like the bike is cold natured, and I tried to adjust the mixture screw. The screw has no head,but sticks out just a little. I unbolted the carb, and took needle nose pliers, and gave it a half rotation out, and bolted it back on, and it seemed like it would run about the same, and then it would stumble a little, and return to normal. I ran it down the road, and it ran fine, except for stumbling once. I went to town to do a few things ( took the car), and when I came back I tried to turn the screw back in just a hair with long needle nose pliers. I think it turned in just a little, but not sure, but the bike ran fine after that. I do want to re-jet it to about a 110, and shim the needle. Do all the PZ30 style carbs take the same jet kit ? I also see extended mixture screws on Amazon, and most are listed for Honda bikes ,will these work? How does one adjust the mixture screw on these bikes?


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 08:13 AM   #2
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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This is the jet kit type you want. Note. it has pilot jets but they wont work in the PZ30 we have stock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best thing about the kit is that if/when you change out the stock carb, the kit is ready to use for another Keihin style carb, ie PE30, PZ30B

With regard to shifting, mine shifts smoothly into gears (I use Rotella 15W40), the only thing it does clunky is the shift into first gear when cold, it will kinda bang into first. The workaround for that is to hold the clutch in after started for approx 30 seconds to warm it up a bit, the no clunk. This type of issue is very common to many bikes, my sons DBX1 does it, and many of my former bikes did as well. The only bike that had the clunk that i could never get a workaround for was my ZX14R, that thing always banged into first gear whether the oil was cold or hot, it would even bang at stop lights and id sometimes just sit with it in first and clutch in.. id also start the bike in 1st to avoid that bang, everyone on the forum reported the issue as well and the consensus was that it was normal.

The idle should be at 1400 or the second indicator past 1k. And that A/F screw is a pain to adjust with it on the bike like you noted, i would remove the carb when i wanted to adjust it and also used needle nosed plier.. when you find a viable extension make not of the cost as the a/f screw, need to notch the carb bowl screws in order to open it, hard to find pilot jet, non-adjustable needle jet, are all reasons why people replace the stock carb with aftermarket options.
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Old 02-27-2021, 08:53 AM   #3
Bill Hilly   Bill Hilly is offline
 
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Thanks tknj99. I should have been more clear about the shifting question. The transmission goes into gear fine, but it seems like when I release the clutch on up shifts I can feel it in the bike. Could the poor quality of the factory chain, even though new cause this? Or is this normal for chain driven motorcycles,and something I have forgotten over the years ? That's why I thought that 1500 rpm idle may have been to high. At one time I wouldn't have worried about it, but I would hate to wear my bike out prematurely.


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 09:00 AM   #4
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Hilly View Post
Thanks tknj99. I should have been more clear about the shifting question. The transmission goes into gear fine, but it seems like when I release the clutch on up shifts I can feel it in the bike. Could the poor quality of the factory chain, even though new cause this? Or is this normal for chain driven motorcycles,and something I have forgotten over the years ? That's why I thought that 1500 rpm idle may have been to high. At one time I wouldn't have worried about it, but I would hate to wear my bike out prematurely.
Not sure if this is the same feeling as you describe, but i also noticed the chain tension up but i notice it mostly when im going to put the bike in the shed and drive up the ramp, i dont notice the chain tensioning on flat normal driving situations. And i notice it with the new chain as well.
The clutch definitely is not the best but i think you will find that it gets better with a little seat time once the bike is all broken in and settled.

And also you may want to check the chain slack just in case thats your culprit as the stock chain stretches quickly, i was adjusting slack frequently until i replaced it.
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Old 02-27-2021, 09:26 AM   #5
Bill Hilly   Bill Hilly is offline
 
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I would almost describe the feeling as a less intense, but similar jolt that one would experience if they side stepped the clutch in a truck,or car. I will check the tension in the chain again. It had about what the sticker on the swing arm recommend, but I can't remember if it was about 1", or 1/2" of slop pushing up on the chain from the bottom. I have been looking at carbs on Amazon, and it seems like some people have issues with the pump leaking on the cheap PZ30Bs, I found this here PE30 for a low price. It has a poor review rating, but had only been reviewed by one person, who claims his was 28mm, and he sent it back. Do you think that he just got the wrong model sent to him? From what I have seen on Chinese cloned items, is they are all about the same. Do you think this carb is worth a shot ?, Or too cheap?
https://www.amazon.com/KIMISS-Keihin.../dp/B07HHZC88F


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 09:47 AM   #6
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Thats the same PE30 i bought off Amazon when i was testing which aftermarket carb to go with, the PWK or PE30. I used that one for a while until i was satisfied that i wanted it as a permanent carb and then bought this one from Ebay. The one on Amazon you linked has 2 negatives: no adjustable needle jet and that choke mechanism that needs another part to make it work. The one below has plunger choke, adjustable needle and i like the color:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PE30-30mm-R...53.m2749.l2649

There is something you should think about though before changing to a PE30 carb and that is that it may be too much for the stock form of the bike and wind up being too hard to get dialed in. Thats something you'd need to determine by trial and error but Amazon is great with the 30 day return window to allow for that.
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:08 AM   #7
Bill Hilly   Bill Hilly is offline
 
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Thanks for the heads up on the carb I linked, and thank you for the link that you sent. I noticed that the one you linked to has a 130 main, and I think that is much too large for my stock bike. Does it also come with extra jets, or do I still need to order a jet kit ? I looked at my chain, and if anything it is probably tighter than it should be. It had a sticker showing a picture of what the play should be from pushing up on the bottom of the chain, and that is about how mine looks. I would say it has maybe 5/8 - 3/4 inch play, and from what I have gathered most folks like more play. I also wonder if the fact that the motors on these bikes are mounted in steel brackets, and no rubber bushings is the reason I get the "jolt" when changing gears. I hope nothing is wrong with the bike, because it is really growing on me.


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:22 AM   #8
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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I think if you get the slack dialed in you'll be fine esp as things break in.
Yea that 130 will be too large for you and the one i linked to doesnt come with any extras. You'll still need a jet kit like i linked earlier.
But if i were you and you are sold on replacing the carb, buy the jet kit and that PE30 from Amazon so you can return in case it winds up being more trouble than its worth at stock level.
I didnt change to a PE30 until after i changed the exhaust, air intake and port/polish the head.
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:25 AM   #9
China Rider 27   China Rider 27 is offline
 
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One of you BROZZ owners should ask Peace Sports about getting the correct pilot jet for the stock carburetors on the bikes they sell? They sell other parts, why not the correct jets? There is a right angle carburetor adjustment tool that works to adjust the mixture while running on PZ30 and like carburetors with bottom adjustment. All the carbs have advantages and disadvantages. Going to a PE30 you will lose your stock airbox unless you make special adaption.


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:33 AM   #10
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Good point, slipped my mind to mention that the PE30 requires a new intake and intake manifold.. Once you start the upgrades, it becomes a slippery slope lol
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Old 02-27-2021, 10:42 AM   #11
Bill Hilly   Bill Hilly is offline
 
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I think I will just re jet the main with about a 110, or 115, and place a very thin shim under the needle, for now. They sell a cheap jet drilling kit ,that would probably work with the pilot ,but the think about that is if you go too big you're stuck with it.


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 11:23 AM   #12
China Rider 27   China Rider 27 is offline
 
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Got to thinking about Peace Sports and jets and likely they do not want to be seen as supporting modification of EPA approved carburetion but then the stock jet or carburetor could need to be replaced but maybe as a unit. Are there any EPA rules say you can't sell other jets? Regardless a bigger pilot jet is not needed generally until you do the exhaust modification creating more air flow. Even then it can be had on alibaba maybe ebay so if you think an exhaust upgrade is in your future and you plan to run the stock carb with the new exhaust locate and order now.


 
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:01 PM   #13
Spins   Spins is offline
 
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Just buy a Mikuni clone carb VM26. You’ll be able to get jets for both the pilot and main . Makes tuning easier for stock or slightly modded bikes. They’re under $30 on Amazon .
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:07 PM   #14
Oltzer   Oltzer is offline
 
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So are all the pz30s out there the same or is it only the one shipped with the Brozz that has the tamper proof screws and abnormal cold start jet? Just wondering if it’s a lost cause to get the bike running really well with the pz30. I took pictures of the jets in mine and also the mixture screw which looks like it works with a special socket.
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Old 04-28-2021, 07:46 AM   #15
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oltzer View Post
So are all the pz30s out there the same or is it only the one shipped with the Brozz that has the tamper proof screws and abnormal cold start jet? Just wondering if it’s a lost cause to get the bike running really well with the pz30. I took pictures of the jets in mine and also the mixture screw which looks like it works with a special socket.
Most people just slot the mixture screw with a hack saw or Dremel so that you can use a regular screwdriver.
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