Noob rider with a TBR7, questions about takeoff.

PhoenixX2 · 11-04-2022, 05:10 PM

So had my first real ride on my TBR7 yesterday, up and down the hill and around the neighborhood a few times. Basic mods, 17tooth sprocket and mikuni knockoff jetted for my altitude and fresh oil change. Hadn't gotten the valve adjustment done, and am definitely gonna pick up some better fork oil. Well, since this is my first motorcycle (first actual vehicle in general, only other thing I've rode with a motor was gas motored bicycles) I stalled a LOT on takeoffs. Got the hang of it a bit but was still stalling every few tries.

Well got my set of feeler gauges in and did the valve lash adjustment (2021 TBR7D and yep no clearance at all), upped the idle a bit, and now it's a different story. Yesterday I kept making the mistake of letting the clutch out too fast once I felt it start to bite and stalled out.

Took it around the block today and aside from forgetting to turn the fuel back on I didn't stall on takeoff, quite the opposite, got to a stop sign, stopped, and went to takeoff, giving a little throttle releasing the clutch and once again let it out too fast right as I hit friction zone. She didn't stall that time, thing straight up lurched forward and straight took off.

So my question is, is this closer to how it should be working, or should it be stalling in that circumstance and I messed something up? First is punchy as all hell and right around 15mph starts to sound like a jet engine, second is smooth as butter at least through 20mph.

Megadan · 11-04-2022, 09:30 PM

The stalling out was likely due to the valves not being adjusted and your idle being a bit low. Idle speed should be 1500rpm, give or take 100rpm.

Sounds to me like you just need to practice your hand controls more. Bikes don't tend to do well with herky jerky and snappy inputs.

PhoenixX2 · 11-05-2022, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

The stalling out was likely due to the valves not being adjusted and your idle being a bit low. Idle speed should be 1500rpm, give or take 100rpm.

Sounds to me like you just need to practice your hand controls more. Bikes don't tend to do well with herky jerky and snappy inputs.

Yeah I definitely still have that beginner user error, but I'm getting there compared to the first ride the other day. Just wanted to make sure I didn't bork anything or something.

Bill Hilly · 11-05-2022, 06:26 PM

You will catch on fast. You may want to adjust your clutch cable, just to have a very small amount of free play. I think everyone is probably different, but I personally don't like my clutch to grab as soon as I start to let the lever out. You do need some free play , but as long as you have even the smallest amount, you are good.

CheapThrills · 11-10-2022, 09:27 AM

The TBR7 was my first bike, so I blamed much of the stalling on my clutch and throttle control. Well I'm better now, or I think so, but even after two clutch plate changes and running synthetic motorcycle oil, the clutch feels very 'grabby' in 1st gear.

Meaning not so smooth, so I give a little more throttle then might be needed to make up for the nonlinear friction zone.

dig4dirt · 11-12-2022, 09:31 AM

You should be getting it better by now.

I had manual transmission cars from my very first at 18 until about ten years ago at 35 yo.
I got my first auto and never went back.

So when I got my TBR7, it would be first clutch work in about 10 years.
I did practice in my driveway for a week or so, came back naturally.

Make sure your lever adjustment is locked in....you dont want that to be wandering and screwing with you.

I would recommend to anyone learning...to pull in clutch and do small revs while letting out clutch and pulling in clutch once it starts grabbing.
Doing this over and over and inching or moving forward on level ground will
help to learn as you wont have to worry about braking.

Practicing this will teach muscle memory on where the clutch grabs.

After so long you can then rev up throttle moreso while practicing.
This comes in handy when your engine is cold as it is more prone to stall.
Since the cold weather is setting in here in PA, I have to rev much higher
but I also let clutch out slower while engine cold.

Once the deal is learned, all will be well.

Not ever attempting it, I dont think I could pop a wheelie with my gearing.
BUT a quick jerk and the bike could get out of control.
Early on, a few comical stalls/jump starts happened at intersections/etc when
I was a bit nervous around other drivers.....

but all is well now!

good luck!

Texas Pete · 11-12-2022, 09:59 PM

When I did my safety course they adjusted all the clutches so that they started to grab in the friction zone in the very middle of the clutch lever pull. So if you pulled the lever in all the way and then slowly release the lever all the way out and counted you could count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 before the clutch lever had released pressure from pulling the clutch cable.

So 3 is where they set the friction zone to engage.

To get students used to where the friction zone is they have them count 1, 2, 3 and calibrate their count with the feel of their bike clutch so when it starts to grab they know they will be on the count of 3. Then pull in the clutch and repeat to get used to the muscle memory.

Then to learn to take off without stalls they have the students count the pattern:
1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 5

3 is where you enter the friction zone then stay in it as you roll on the throttle and keep in the zone. As throttle rolls on you are slowly rolling out of the friction zone and into full clutch engagement.

If you watch videos of courses they also start students duck walking the bike as they enter the friction zone and the bike starts to take off for at least a few steps on the ground before students lift their feet onto to the pegs. This is easier for them to learn than going immediately from stand still with feet on ground to feet up on the pegs just as the bike starts to roll. After practing this a few times and getting comfortable students just start naturally switching over to no duck walking and going straight to feet on pegs as the bike starts to roll.

11-04-2022, 05:10 PM	#1
PhoenixX2 Join Date: Oct 2022 Posts: 13	Noob rider with a TBR7, questions about takeoff. So had my first real ride on my TBR7 yesterday, up and down the hill and around the neighborhood a few times. Basic mods, 17tooth sprocket and mikuni knockoff jetted for my altitude and fresh oil change. Hadn't gotten the valve adjustment done, and am definitely gonna pick up some better fork oil. Well, since this is my first motorcycle (first actual vehicle in general, only other thing I've rode with a motor was gas motored bicycles) I stalled a LOT on takeoffs. Got the hang of it a bit but was still stalling every few tries. Well got my set of feeler gauges in and did the valve lash adjustment (2021 TBR7D and yep no clearance at all), upped the idle a bit, and now it's a different story. Yesterday I kept making the mistake of letting the clutch out too fast once I felt it start to bite and stalled out. Took it around the block today and aside from forgetting to turn the fuel back on I didn't stall on takeoff, quite the opposite, got to a stop sign, stopped, and went to takeoff, giving a little throttle releasing the clutch and once again let it out too fast right as I hit friction zone. She didn't stall that time, thing straight up lurched forward and straight took off. So my question is, is this closer to how it should be working, or should it be stalling in that circumstance and I messed something up? First is punchy as all hell and right around 15mph starts to sound like a jet engine, second is smooth as butter at least through 20mph.
	0

11-04-2022, 09:30 PM	#2
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,053	The stalling out was likely due to the valves not being adjusted and your idle being a bit low. Idle speed should be 1500rpm, give or take 100rpm. Sounds to me like you just need to practice your hand controls more. Bikes don't tend to do well with herky jerky and snappy inputs. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	2

11-10-2022, 09:27 AM	#5
CheapThrills Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Lehigh Valley Area Posts: 150	The TBR7 was my first bike, so I blamed much of the stalling on my clutch and throttle control. Well I'm better now, or I think so, but even after two clutch plate changes and running synthetic motorcycle oil, the clutch feels very 'grabby' in 1st gear. Meaning not so smooth, so I give a little more throttle then might be needed to make up for the nonlinear friction zone. __________________ - My 2 Bikes: TaoTao TBR7 Boom Vader Gen 2 (BD125-10) Testing a YouTube Channel
	0

11-12-2022, 09:31 AM	#6
dig4dirt Join Date: Apr 2022 Location: Lanco PA Posts: 41	You should be getting it better by now. I had manual transmission cars from my very first at 18 until about ten years ago at 35 yo. I got my first auto and never went back. So when I got my TBR7, it would be first clutch work in about 10 years. I did practice in my driveway for a week or so, came back naturally. Make sure your lever adjustment is locked in....you dont want that to be wandering and screwing with you. I would recommend to anyone learning...to pull in clutch and do small revs while letting out clutch and pulling in clutch once it starts grabbing. Doing this over and over and inching or moving forward on level ground will help to learn as you wont have to worry about braking. Practicing this will teach muscle memory on where the clutch grabs. After so long you can then rev up throttle moreso while practicing. This comes in handy when your engine is cold as it is more prone to stall. Since the cold weather is setting in here in PA, I have to rev much higher but I also let clutch out slower while engine cold. Once the deal is learned, all will be well. Not ever attempting it, I dont think I could pop a wheelie with my gearing. BUT a quick jerk and the bike could get out of control. Early on, a few comical stalls/jump starts happened at intersections/etc when I was a bit nervous around other drivers..... but all is well now! good luck! __________________ TBR7D NGK...JT.Chain&17/42sprockets...ebayExhaust
	0

11-05-2022, 06:26 PM	#4
Bill Hilly Join Date: Feb 2021 Posts: 948	You will catch on fast. You may want to adjust your clutch cable, just to have a very small amount of free play. I think everyone is probably different, but I personally don't like my clutch to grab as soon as I start to let the lever out. You do need some free play , but as long as you have even the smallest amount, you are good.
	0

11-12-2022, 09:59 PM	#7
Texas Pete Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 585	When I did my safety course they adjusted all the clutches so that they started to grab in the friction zone in the very middle of the clutch lever pull. So if you pulled the lever in all the way and then slowly release the lever all the way out and counted you could count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 before the clutch lever had released pressure from pulling the clutch cable. So 3 is where they set the friction zone to engage. To get students used to where the friction zone is they have them count 1, 2, 3 and calibrate their count with the feel of their bike clutch so when it starts to grab they know they will be on the count of 3. Then pull in the clutch and repeat to get used to the muscle memory. Then to learn to take off without stalls they have the students count the pattern: 1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 5 3 is where you enter the friction zone then stay in it as you roll on the throttle and keep in the zone. As throttle rolls on you are slowly rolling out of the friction zone and into full clutch engagement. If you watch videos of courses they also start students duck walking the bike as they enter the friction zone and the bike starts to take off for at least a few steps on the ground before students lift their feet onto to the pegs. This is easier for them to learn than going immediately from stand still with feet on ground to feet up on the pegs just as the bike starts to roll. After practing this a few times and getting comfortable students just start naturally switching over to no duck walking and going straight to feet on pegs as the bike starts to roll.
	0