Templar X 250

[Nutcracker]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Time to change my carb jets.


Pilot Jet #40 removed.
Pilot Jet #42 installed.


Main Jet #120 removed.
Main Jet #125 installed.


Now that covers idle to 1/4 throttle and the upper quarter to third of throtle to full open. Time to richen up the main throttle positions inbetween those extremes.


Needle is non-adjustable. This is the thickenss of the top of the needle permanantly affixed washer.


Attachment 27874


Now add a nitrile o-ring.


Attachment 27875


Not bad, just a hair thicker than the original, just a hair over 1mm additional lift on the needle to richen it up.










I used the smallest washer in the box, top left corner.


Attachment 27876


And this is the box label.


Attachment 27877


EDIT: As a starting position, I set my newly accessable Air Pilot screw out 2 turns and will tune from there after reinstalling the carburetor in the bike. 2 for sea level, 2 1/2 turns for elevation seems to be a decent starting position when not knowing.

Very good thinking

I believe this is the final fine tuning that this carburetor needs. With Thumpers jetting plus shim and now the addition of an air screw for less than $10 you have a very good carburetor.

Great job!!

[DR@G0NR1DR]

Originally Posted by Okierider

Hey as I’m looking to replace my chain, might as well do my sprockets too-what’s compatible with this bike?

Edit: chain is on.
I adjusted it according to the specs in the manual (8-10mm play when bike is sitting upright under its own weight) but that seems really tight. Is there a rule of thumb for this sort of thing or just stick to factory specs?

Edit2: also liked how the chain slider mount will not allow the rear wheel to be adjusted fully forward. The tires will strike the portion that protrudes inside of the swing arm. I think I may trim that part off. Go-go gadget grinder lol

Brand new rider so please excuse my ignorance.
I bought the Templar M, which the only thing I can tell that’s different from the X, is the adjustable shocks, and the 6speed. It came with the back rack and passenger pegs and everything to tag it. I won’t ever put it on the road, so the 5 speed works for me. A couple of questions, if I could get some help please. This is a great forum.

The videos on YT are showing about 3 finger widths of chain slack? The thread above is saying less then 1/2”? I’m not really doing any huge jumping, but 1/2” seems tight. Does anyone have part numbers to for the adjustable front forks and rear shock? What else should I look at modding? Is the chain 120 links, if like to get an o-ring chain.

[Thumper]

Congrats on the M. Yes, it is going to be FUN!

I am still using the original chain on my 5 speed now, AND the 49T rear sprocket. I did switch to a 14T front sprocket, but it required grinding the cast-in alloy mud gaurd down, so I don't recommend it. You can drop a few teeth in the rear sprocket instead. But I would recommend keeping the gearing down low since you are going to be riding mostly offroad.

I prefer about 1 inch of flex on the chain (~2.5 cm). More is not needed. BUT, buy a can of Champion chain lube spray grease (or equivalent). Hang the chain from baling wire from the ceiling. Lay a rag towel under it, and if you have a latex or vinyl glove, put it on your left hand and cuddle the top of the chain with that hand... spray the piss out of it, slowly moving down the chain. Rub it in, top to bottom. Clean up the mess and reinstall the chain. Adjust it squarely at about 1" free flex.

NOTE: I removed that stupid brush guard from in front of the rear sprocket. Leave it if you think you will be riding through big bush. I just don't like it

Originally Posted by DR@G0NR1DR

Brand new rider so please excuse my ignorance.
I bought the Templar M, which the only thing I can tell that’s different from the X, is the adjustable shocks, and the 6speed. It came with the back rack and passenger pegs and everything to tag it. I won’t ever put it on the road, so the 5 speed works for me. A couple of questions, if I could get some help please. This is a great forum.

The videos on YT are showing about 3 finger widths of chain slack? The thread above is saying less then 1/2”? I’m not really doing any huge jumping, but 1/2” seems tight. Does anyone have part numbers to for the adjustable front forks and rear shock? What else should I look at modding? Is the chain 120 links, if like to get an o-ring chain.

[Thumper]

Please post your insurance company name if they have given you liability insurance on the Templars.

Geico insured mine, but I had to call with the MCO in hand since the manufacturer is not in their database, and the VINs do not get recognized. Tell them the manufacturer is Zuumav (not Honda ). You can tell them information from the MCO.

I had insurance in place on a Suzuki Bandit, so I was just adding the Templar to the policy. They added it for about $30-$35 annual premium. I was amazed. As a stand alone vehicle on the policy, it will probably be higher.

[severely]

Originally Posted by DR@G0NR1DR

Brand new rider so please excuse my ignorance.
I bought the Templar M, which the only thing I can tell that’s different from the X, is the adjustable shocks, and the 6speed. It came with the back rack and passenger pegs and everything to tag it. I won’t ever put it on the road, so the 5 speed works for me. A couple of questions, if I could get some help please. This is a great forum.

The videos on YT are showing about 3 finger widths of chain slack? The thread above is saying less then 1/2”? I’m not really doing any huge jumping, but 1/2” seems tight. Does anyone have part numbers to for the adjustable front forks and rear shock? What else should I look at modding? Is the chain 120 links, if like to get an o-ring chain.

Yes, 1/2" of slack is very tight. The very best way to check chain tension is to put your weight on the machine and have the swingarm parallel to the ground, then give yourself 3/4 to 1" of slack. This method ensures you won't be too tight for the countershaft and wheel bearings and ensuring long chain life. Good luck.

[Texas Pete]

Going to skip the photos on this, just a record for the curious.



Rear - 17 PSI out of the crate
Front - 6.2 PSI out of the crate

[Texas Pete]

Today I dedicated to getting all the torque on the rear and front rim spokes dialed in.


First I got the bike racked so the front and rear tires could free spin.





Then my spoke torque wrench kit came in with one of the extra tips I ordered (6.0 mm). I still have a 6.2mm in transit waiting to be delivered but word to the wise if you have one of these bikes the front and rears are actually the same size. I could use the 6.0mm tip on both the front and rear spokes to do the toque job today.





I am very glad I actually did check and uniform the torque settings, they were all over the place out of the crate from loose to already at 35 inch pounds or higher!



My method was start at the air valve. Torque only a quarter turn, then followed the pattern skip two, torque the 3rd. Because the out of the crate torque was all over the place I did multiple rounds, doing no more than 1/4 turn until the torque wrench clicked at 35 inch pounds. Then I switched to the next rim on the bike and worked on getting that uniform to 35 inch pounds. Then I went back to the back wheel after it had settled and hit it again at 35 and found a few spokes that had slackened on tension and brought them back to 35. Then I did the second round on the front.


I then spun both rear and front wheels on the bike observing for lateral and radial run out and and saw none (dirt bikes have a looser 2mm design tolerance so no need to break out the dial).


With 35 dialed in and settled in I then brought front and rear spokes up to 45 inch pounds of torque. Doing a round of skip two do the third and making sure I made it all the way around every spoke. (usually to be sure I wait until the pattern lands me one rotation from 1st spoke next to air stem to the 2nd spoke next to air stem to the 3rd spoke next to air stem and then the 4th rotation it resets back to 1st. I then switched to the second rim and let the 45 inch pounds settle into the first rim. A second round of both wheels and I call the "initial" job done.


After the first ride and a few rides later I will hit all the spokes again but it should go A LOT quicker the next time around. I'll keep hitting it until they settle and stabilize and I find no more spokes that have slackened off.

[Texas Pete]

The price of threadlocker has gone up a bit since I last bought some so I went to my local Harbor Freight to switch brands.


I picked up both blue and red threadlocker at 1/4 of the price of loctite.


While I was there I had the idea of buying a Stubby Screwdriver and then grinding the flat blade size down to fit the Air Pilot screw I just recently freed up on my carburetor. To fit inside the frame I was then going to take an angle grinder with cutting disc and cut the handle side of the screwdriver mostly off leaving a short stub to grab and turn.


I decided against the single stubby screwdriver as a few dollar more and I could get the whole screwdriver set (one of HF's cheapest sets). I never bought one before and had always gotten the better sets.





I am so glad I did buy this instead!


The very first screwdriver I took out on opening the pack I out of curiosity tried on the air pilot screw hole on the carburetor. Perfect fit! no work to do!






I love it when a plan works out better than I had planned it.

[Zapkin]

I live at an elevation of about 800ft. How likely is my Templar to start up out of the box? just curious if I should absolutely replace carb or whatever. want to plan.

[Texas Pete]

Every carb is different even two of the same bikes. It willl likely start up just fine but be lean out of the box.


A variety pack of different sized idle and main jets for the carburetor that comes with the bike will be under $8 from eBay.


A set of two M4-.7x16mm socket cap screws to replace the break-off bolts on the carburetor bowl will be $1.30 from Home Depot.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Every carb is different even two of the same bikes. It willl likely start up just fine but be lean out of the box.


A variety pack of different sized idle and main jets for thecarburetor that comes with the bike will be under $8 from eBay.


A set of two M4-.7x16mm socket cap screws to replace the break-off bolts on the carburetor bowl will be $1.30 from Home Depot.

years ago I took off the top of my Lifan carb and moved the needle but that is all the carburetor knowledge I have in this world... I am not sure about being able to perform surgery on the stock carb.

[DR@G0NR1DR]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Today I dedicated to getting all the torque on the rear and front rim spokes dialed in.


First I got the bike racked so the front and rear tires could free spin.


Attachment 27902


Then my spoke torque wrench kit came in with one of the extra tips I ordered (6.0 mm). I still have a 6.2mm in transit waiting to be delivered but word to the wise if you have one of these bikes the front and rears are actually the same size. I could use the 6.0mm tip on both the front and rear spokes to do the toque job today.


Attachment 27903


I am very glad I actually did check and uniform the torque settings, they were all over the place out of the crate from loose to already at 35 inch pounds or higher!



My method was start at the air valve. Torque only a quarter turn, then followed the pattern skip two, torque the 3rd. Because the out of the crate torque was all over the place I did multiple rounds, doing no more than 1/4 turn until the torque wrench clicked at 35 inch pounds. Then I switched to the next rim on the bike and worked on getting that uniform to 35 inch pounds. Then I went back to the back wheel after it had settled and hit it again at 35 and found a few spokes that had slackened on tension and brought them back to 35. Then I did the second round on the front.


I then spun both rear and front wheels on the bike observing for lateral and radial run out and and saw none (dirt bikes have a looser 2mm design tolerance so no need to break out the dial).


With 35 dialed in and settled in I then brought front and rear spokes up to 45 inch pounds of torque. Doing a round of skip two do the third and making sure I made it all the way around every spoke. (usually to be sure I wait until the pattern lands me one rotation from 1st spoke next to air stem to the 2nd spoke next to air stem to the 3rd spoke next to air stem and then the 4th rotation it resets back to 1st. I then switched to the second rim and let the 45 inch pounds settle into the first rim. A second round of both wheels and I call the "initial" job done.


After the first ride and a few rides later I will hit all the spokes again but it should go A LOT quicker the next time around. I'll keep hitting it until they settle and stabilize and I find no more spokes that have slackened off.

What’s a good inexpense wrench and tip set to purchase?

[Texas Pete]

Originally Posted by DR@G0NR1DR

What’s a good inexpense wrench and tip set to purchase?

How much does a new rim cost, or two rims to replace? A spoke torque wrench kit will cost a fraction of a single rim and you’ll have the tool for life. They all cost the same amount for most of the kits.

At the moment RockyMountainATVMC has them on sale. They got me mine for $18 less than Amazon wanted for the same kit and they gave me faster free shipping. Expect any of them to be around a Benjamin.

I’ve seen people use Faast brand but it is a preset torque which is either a plus or a minus depending on what you want. If you just want to pick it up and torque without a thought it’s great. I tried the Warp 9 because it is adjustable torque in case I get to work on smaller bikes as well as larger bikes in the future. Or if I don’t trust the metal being used in a spoke I can lower the torque setting. Most kits have a non torque wrench handle for loosening spokes so that you can keep your torque wrench calibrated longer.

I also made sure I got a 6mm tip. I had a 6.1 in my kit but I didn’t try it since 6.0 is a tighter tolerance of fit for my spokes.

[Texas Pete]

I am very unoriginal. I have the Harbor Freight 15” foldable / collapsible tool bag that I have yet to install on the back of my bike. For an around town runabout bike it stays zip tied to the rear luggage rack and provides a rather large amount of storage space when you want to pack items such as from the grocery store or wherever and cart them back home without having to resort to taking a backpack with you. And when not being used it folds completely flat against the rack.

You get them for $8 or $9 from HF.

[WindMindMusic]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I have maybe just over 200 miles on the Templar. I changed the oil and adjusted the exhaust valve (back to ~ 0.006inch). It had tightened up a little. The intake was still at ~ 0.005inches.

I took the plug out for the procedure to make it easier to control. While adjusting, I noticed that the crankshaft spins very nicely, and in fact the valve springs rotate the shaft as the cams roll off to zero lift. Smooth as silk (and good strong valve springs). Nice!

Here is a picture of the plug. Looks perfect. It is a YouALL smoothbore PE30.
OEM Main jet was #120. Changed to #125
OEM Pilot jet was #40, Changed to #45
One washer shim on the needle (~1mm).

It starter instantly and ran GREAT when I got it all back together. I took a quick trail ride and had a blast
Perfect jetting.

Awesome info

Thank you