Templar 250 resource guide

[Fast_Freddy]

This is a collaborative effort that will be updated as new information becomes available. Please contribute what you can and leave discussion in other threads. We want to keep this thread limited to Templar 250 spec's, facts, useful info and links. Thanks to everyone in advance for your contributions!

Below are the guidelines for contribution:

-No live links to external vendor websites like Amazon (they die, sometimes quickly)
Instead, include the full description that can be googled, and you can mention the vendor(s) that have it to make it easy to find.
-No personal posts about your bike. Start your own thread to post that, or questions for forum members to help you out
-Links to ChinaRiders threads or individual posts are definitely useful, because there is lots of useful information hidden all over this website.
-Do not post untested parts or methods, only things that are proven to work. A link to your successful install or procedure on your own thread is perfect.
-Photos can be very useful if you have them.

Thanks!

Brakes:

Front & rear pads: FA86

Carb: Youall PE28, 120 main jet, 40 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on idle mixture screw

*Suggested jetting start point for 0-2000' ASL: 125 main, 42 pilot, +1mm needle, 1.5 turns out on idle air mixture screw (YMMV)

How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=25
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...79&postcount=5

Exhaust: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=28


Valves: Clearance .05mm +/- 0.02mm (.001-.003") *Cold

How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=23

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=496

Spark plug: Torch D8TC (oem), NGK D8EA (copper), NGK DPR8EIX-9 (iridium) GAP: 0.6-0.8mm (.024-.031")

Ignition: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...35&postcount=9

Headlight bulb: Base Templar: H6 BA20D, X/M: H4/9003/HB2

Replacement headlamp

Front sprocket: 13 tooth



Rear sprocket: X: 49 teeth Base/M: 47 teeth

X/M* '23+ base Templar

2022 Base/M*

* Templar M is known to ship with hubs drilled for either JTR210 or JTR897. Measure before ordering.
* Titan 2023+ now uses JTR210
* Oilcan has a 2023 Templar that uses JTR210 so 2023 Templar owners should measure before ordering.
* Apparently all Templar models from MY23 up use JTR210 rear sprocket. Measure your bike to be sure.

Chain:
Templar: 520x112L
X/M: 520x112L

Body panels: X/M = 2007-2009 Suzuki RMZ 250 (fitment verified), Base = 2013-2016 KTM 125-450 (unverified, try at your own risk)

Front forks: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32140

Rear shocks: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...1&postcount=22

How to lower your Templar

Texas Pete's Torque Spec's

Texas Pete's wheel and tire specs and fitment

Special thanks to Thumper for pioneering the way for future Templar owners, JerryHawk250 for moderating this great forum and all the members who contributed to this resource.

[Okierider]

Rear sprockets-in this case 40 tooth JT Sprockets JTR210.40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G...b_b_asin_title

Plastics and graphics compatible with 2007-2009 RMZ 250

https://www.revzilla.com/motocross/a...?sku_id=737962

Carb Jets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08DY...b_b_asin_title

[tknj99]

42T Rear Sprocket: JT Sprockets JTR210.42
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bark Busters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Thumper]

If this thread is going to be useful for QUICK, EASY to FIND information, please stick to tested solutions/procedures/equipment, or links to YOUR thread or a description of a tested and useful modification or maintenance procedure, with photo(s) if you have them. This advice is spread over hundreds of links-the idea here is to limit posts to useful information and links. Avoid links that might die (amazon, aliexpress), and PLEASE, no questions (post them in the main Forum).

Links to your posts in other threads where you worked out the details are good. A photos of the modification, maintenance procedure, or accessory is welcomed, along with a description of any issues related to the work...
Here are a few:

OEM smoothbore YouAll carb opening and rejetting, with pics. This is from the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in the video and pics section. It shows how to take out the screws if they are "difficult":

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7

This one has the jets, link and description, and recommended jets:

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=25

Weight (282lbs):
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...6&postcount=23

HERE is a link to a post on Valve adjustment, with a pic. For the 172FMM (this engine), adjust your valves on a cold engine. In this post (link below) I recommended 0.002 on the intake, and 0.0025" on the exhaust. Some have recommended 0.001" on the intake, and 0.002" on the exhaust. There is a minor chance that when the engine heats up to running temp, the valves may not fully close, which can result in burn through in the long term (valve seat/valve damage). This problem is worse on push rod driven valves, where the length of the rod increases expansion changes upon heating, but this is an OHC head. So 0.001" might be fine on the intake. And the exhaust valve may close completely if set at 0.002" cold. The slightly wider gaps insure complete valve closure:
VALVE ADJUSTMENT procedure, with photos

Nutcracker found and posted this front fork video. NICE (THANKS!).
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=545

Front Fork REBUILD:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=546

And one from Blueridge on fork oil change:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=549

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS/SEALS AND AXEL:
They are identical to Honda CRF250R for more than a decade (2004-2018) and also compatible with KTM SX 250, 380, 400, 520, 2000-2002. YES, the Axel too.
Bearing type: 6904 2RS - Dimensions: 37 x 20 x 9 mm

Dimensions of shaft seals: 37 x 26 x 7 mm (6 or 7mm on thickness)

[Thumper]

TK found this post for me. I had posted it in my thread in video and pics but there are SO many!
2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly

This is written for doing the job while the carb it still on the bike (yes, you can!!):


The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifted (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!

It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. If you do remove the carb, while you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer). It is much easier to remove/replace the carb if you remove the exhaust and rear shock. But here is the method for doing this while carb is still on the bike...

Here's how to shim the needle:
You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe.

Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean.

Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm thick or so-thickness determines shim height) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle.

Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem

Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted!

Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!).
Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done.

[Thumper]

The OEM idle adjustment screw (slide height) is knurled, But it is still a little difficult to reach, pinch and twist. Good news is that there are inexpensive replacements with big "knobs"! I found one on AliExpress for $2.82 plus a few bucks shipping. It is a perfect fit. To find it, Google:

ZS Racing Motorcycle Carburetor Idle Speed Adjustment Screw For Universal PWK Carburetor

WARNING: This knob will hit the frame on the base Templar. So this upgrade is good for Templar X and Templar M models.

It takes about 3 weeks by US mail, but worth it. Just order it and forget about it. It will show up eventually! There are others out there. Just keep with the dimensions.

I measured the OEM slide screw first. Diameter/length of the nub was good, and it fit in my thread gauge (M5-0.80) so I tried it:



The add on AliExpress shows dimensions, and they match:



Here it is installed


Only one thing to keep in mind... The spring that comes with it it strong and kind of too long, so I reused the OEM spring from the original. ALSO, the thing comes with a nice washer, which I used on the carb side of the spring.

NOTE: this replacement idle adjustment knob fits Keihin PE replacement carbs (PE28 is a direct replacement).

AIRSCREW:
It is an airscrew (adjusts air, not fuel), so counterclockwise is leaner. Find it on the right side behind the idle adjustment knob. Drill out the EPA cap, it is a brass flathead screw in there. Gently close and count how many turns it was. Then open to 1-1/2 to start (or adjust based on your knowledge and what it was).

[Fast_Freddy]

Regarding the shimming of the needle jet, you can buy special shim washers sold specifically for this purpose that are 0.5mm thick or get 0.5mm thick M3 washers from any hardware store. SAE #4 washers can also be used but are slightly larger diameter and thicker (0.8mm). It's best to use stainless steel or brass.

[tknj99]

Replacement carb for anyone that botches up the oem one or doesn't want to fuss or muss with it: For PE28 28mm,KIMISS Carburetor Carb Fits for Honda CR80 CR80RB 1996-2002 CR85 CR85R 2003
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/a...pacebran131-20

[Thumper]

If you want to buy a fixed advance high performance or adjustable CDI box, you have to choose AC or DC. Which is it on the 5 speed Templar X ?

The power in wire on a DC CDI box gets 12V as soon as you turn on the ignition, whereas an AC type isn't powered until the engine is turning over so it gets AC power directly from the stator. Here is a picture of the CDI box on the Templar. The front wire in the photo (black/red) is the power wire. It does NOT get powered when you turn on the ignition. The other clue is that it is the narrower, smaller type of CDI box, which are typically AC type. Some AC CDIs are larger, but AC CDIs can be the smaller format, and this is.

NOTE: My 6speed Templar X has a DC CDI unit. This adjustable AC unit won't work on the 6 speed.




TESTED-WORKS. The Naraku adjustable advance CDI worked in my 5-speed Templar X




NOTE: ADVANCE KEY VERSUS ELECTRONIC CDI ADVANCE??
Electronic advance is a standard used in high performance engines. It is plug and play, no wrenching, but there are other advantages, including no advance at idle (prevents kickback...easier starting). In other words, an advance key changes the firing time by a fixed number all the way across rpm range including idle (when you don't want it and don't need it).
Here is more information on this:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...light=ignition

[Thumper]

HERE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM from my 2022 TemplarX (5-speed) owners manual:



NOTE: The wiring diagram is incomplete, doesn't show lights/horn/ignition lockout circuits!


It is a good idea to wrap the rear wires in a protector. I posted this last year:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...43&postcount=1
See the 6th and 7th pics.

But the wiring needs to be pinned up on the fender. I did this on the 6 speed, but finally did it on the 5 speed. Simple task-just drill a couple of holes for each zip strip position. Two of them seems enough for mine:

[Zooker89]

Originally Posted by Thumper

It is a good idea to wrap the rear wires in a protector. I posted this last year:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...43&postcount=1
See the 6th and 7th pics.

But the wiring needs to be pinned up on the fender. I did this on the 6 speed, but finally did it on the 5 speed. Simple task-just drill a couple of holes for each zip strip position. Two of them seems enough for mine:
Attachment 28518
Attachment 28519
Attachment 28520

This is the thing that bothered me the most about the bike. I have done the same thing, but am using the sticky zip tie holders under the fender. If they pop off I will drill and zip tie like you. I originally didn't want the holes, but I would rather that than ripping the harness out.

[Texas Pete]

I have fished my now grease stained and handwritten marked up Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Spreadsheet that I had made and updated it and put the document up on Google Drive for anyone to download.


Update now includes separate columns for Nuts, Bolts and Other (Usually Socket Cap screw heads, etc.).


I have started to populate the bolt and nut sizes as I encounter them (and remember to record them!) on the sheet. If folks want to continue to fill out the blanks and then share a copy of their data back I'll re-compiled their updated information into the document for all to be able to download the latest updates with.


Added in this update:

• New columns for bolts, nuts and other fasteners
• Some populated figures for the above
• Engine guard plate (skid plate)
• Engine oil bolt (inc. my torque specifications I use)

Screenshot:





Get your copy of the Torque Specifications here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dAw...ew?usp=sharing


Let me know if the link does or doesn't work for you in a separate PM to keep this thread clean.

[Old-dude]

Nice!!!! Since thereis no service manual (at least that i can find) this is very valuable info.

ThanksTexas Pete!

[Old-dude]

Oh and also a shout out to Thumper. Already using some of his carb info... Thanks again!!

The carb comes out fairly easy without removing exhaust or shock.

1. lossen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet of the carb.
2.Carb can then be slide out of intake mount and airfilter.
3.Remove the the 2 intake screws 8 mm & remove intake
4.unscrew the needle
5. uncrew the choke cable
6. Remove fuel line
7.Carb can now be removed from right side

[Fast_Freddy]

Fork preload spacers for the KKE forks are available from Joe Henner Motorsports. Joe can be contacted on Facebook or by email at race858@yahoo.com