How to install your 13T sprocket

[3banger]

Anyone round up a torque value for counter shaft nut?

[detours]

I couldn't find a torque value. But it didn't take much force to remove and I reinstalled with at least as much tension.

[SpudRider]

The torque quoted by CSC is very large. The torque quoted for the very similar, virtually identical, Suzuki sprocket is also large. The Suzuki torque is quoted as large as 100 foot-pounds.

However, as you have seen, after you ride the bike a few miles, the nut gets very loose, and is only retained by the safety washer. That is why it is so important not to bend the tabs on the safety washer more than twice.

I merely tighten the sprocket nut as hard as I can with a normal socket wrench. I don't use either a breaker bar, or a torque wrench, since the nut is going to loosen anyway. Then I make sure I attach the locking washer securely. No matter how hard you tighten the nut, it is going to loosen to a hand tight fitment. Therefore, the locking washer is crucial for keeping the nut on the sprocket.

[SpudRider]

Detours,

Thanks for posting this fine tutorial, and taking the time to document your work with such excellent photographs. I have added this thread to the RX3 Tech Sticky, under the Maintenance subheading.

The RX3 Tech Sticky is permanently pinned to the top of this forum.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

[Jay In Milpitas]

Detours & Spud, thank you both for elaborating the procedure for those new to wrenching.

Am I seeing a 15 tooth in your pic, Spud? That's what I want to try for my freeway flyer commuter to bring the 6th gear revs down. Is that a Suz part or aftermarket part for the DRZ?

Also, good point to measure from swing arm pivot to axle center, as the marks for the adjustors may not be accurate. Once I've determined their accuracy, I know if I can rely on them for adjustment on the road.

If you are able to torque the sprocket nut to 100 ft/lbs, it should not loosen up for a very long time, if ever. Best way I've found to achieve that is to hold the rear brake on while taking the nut to final torque value. A click type wrench is best for that, since trying to read a beam scale while bent over the seat & holding the brake on is an advanced Yoga skill.

Happy wrenching, Jay.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Jay In Milpitas

Detours & Spud, thank you both for elaborating the procedure for those new to wrenching.

Am I seeing a 15 tooth in your pic, Spud? That's what I want to try for my freeway flyer commuter to bring the 6th gear revs down. Is that a Suz part or aftermarket part for the DRZ?

Also, good point to measure from swing arm pivot to axle center, as the marks for the adjustors may not be accurate. Once I've determined their accuracy, I know if I can rely on them for adjustment on the road.

If you are able to torque the sprocket nut to 100 ft/lbs, it should not loosen up for a very long time, if ever. Best way I've found to achieve that is to hold the rear brake on while taking the nut to final torque value. A click type wrench is best for that, since trying to read a beam scale while bent over the seat & holding the brake on is an advanced Yoga skill.

Happy wrenching, Jay.

The photograph isn't mine; I 'borrowed' it from Thumpertalk, Jay. The sprocket in the second photo is a Primary Drive, 15T C/S sprocket sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

The Suzuki C/S sprocket is very close to the Zongshen sprocket, but I would not recommend using the Suzuki sprocket. Close is good for horseshoes and hand grenades. However, close isn't good enough for C/S sprockets.

Here are the dimensions for the Suzuki C/S sprocket.



In contrast, I have measured the Zongshen sprocket and recorded the following values.

Minimum spline diameter: 19 mm
Maximum spline diameter: 22 mm
Thickness: 11 mm

Using the Suzuki C/S sprocket might strip the counter shaft splines. Proper C/S sprockets for the RX3 are readily available from CSC for reasonable prices. Therefore, I think it is unwise to risk damage to the bike's countershaft by using the Suzuki sprockets. However, the Suzuki safety washer might work well enough, if you are ever caught shorthanded.

[Jay In Milpitas]

Thanks for the clarification and dimensions, Spud.

Agreed that close enough isn't good.

[SpudRider]

Jay,

If you want a lower sprocket ratio, you do have several choices. I was told CSC is going to sell rear sprockets in the range 42T-46T. Therefore, you could purchase a smaller, 42T sprocket from CSC to lower the sprocket ratio.

Also, the JTR473 sprocket is available in 40T, and it should be a perfect fit for the rear hub of the RX3.



You can buy this rear sprocket from Amazon for $21.37, with free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-J.../dp/B005DL7JLO

[dpl096]

detours : Excellent write up! I'm curious if you are still running the stock chain or have updated to something else?

[detours]

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

[dpl096]

Originally Posted by detours

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

So you are going to run the 14T front and the 45T rear ? What are the advantages? I know you felt the 14T spread out the usable power more efficiently.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by detours

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

I suggest you get a 112-link drive chain. I barely managed to fit the stock, 110-link drive chain over the 13T/46T sprocket combination. I'm sure the 112-link drive chain will fit the 13T/45T sprockets. Also, you can always remove two links if you wish to switch back to a 13T/44T sprocket combination, et cetera.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by dpl096

So you are going to run the 14T front and the 45T rear ? What are the advantages? I know you felt the 14T spread out the usable power more efficiently.

I'm sure he is going to keep the 13T C/S sprocket.

I'm running a 13T/46T sprocket combination, and I like it a lot. I have more torque for low speed riding, and accelerating away from stop lights. Low speed riding is easier, and I can sustain higher speeds while ascending inclines with the lower gearing. However, I live at 4,400 feet above sea level, and everywhere I ride the elevation is higher yet.

[detours]

I'm going to keep the 13T and try the 45T first, then get the 46T if I still need lower gearing.

Sounds like the 112 link x-ring is the one to get. Thanks

[SpudRider]

You're welcome.

I have the RK 520EXW drive chain installed on my Honda XR650L, Honda CRF250X, and Zongshen RX3. I really like this drive chain.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-XW-RING-Chain