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Old 06-24-2020, 07:22 AM   #61
LoneStarGazer   LoneStarGazer is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: NOLA->NM/CO->Baja
Posts: 11
Jsalmi,
Very helpful info, thanks...
Presumably one injects oil at the highest connection point, which I’m thinking would have to be done at each oil change as well... Otherwise you’d end up with an air bubble at the highest point. I’m wondering if it might make sense to install a simple ‘T’ with a plug at the high point and add oil there from now on (or am I overthinking this way too much..?)


 
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Old 06-24-2020, 09:01 AM   #62
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: S Florida
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I'm planning to change oil every 1000 miles now using Castrol Power1 4T 10w40. Think the motor is broken in now and last interval was 700 miles using Castrol Activo semisynthetic 10w40. The cooler will have residual oil left in it since the mounting for the hoses have to face up. This is my opinion, otherwise the oil would drain out of the cooler into the crankcase and cooler would have air in it. In 700 miles oil still looked good without the cooler. I did a oil change at 0 miles, 100 miles, 300 miles and 600 miles and now feel pretty good about extending it.


 
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Old 06-24-2020, 12:42 PM   #63
LoneStarGazer   LoneStarGazer is offline
 
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I’m thinking that a transparent system like this with water in it would show water remaining in the radiator and upper hoses, but draining out the lower hoses along with the rest when the drain plug is removed, which on refilling In the ordinary manner likely would leave air pockets in the upper reaches of both lines. The more I think about it, the more I think the solution is to add oil at the top of both lines, OR disconnect the radiator assembly each time and allow it to hang below the level of the drain. It shouldn’t be too difficult to rig up a quick disconnect, possibly utilizing thumb screws... (thinking out loud...) A pair of Flip lever clamps would even be easier... I’m thinking about the adjustable wire bale types used on old ski boots and etc... Open two clamps, set the radiator aside or let it dangle, change the oil, clamp it back into place... That would leave old oil in the radiator, but if you unclamped the radiator and held it upside down while you’re draining the oil, then allowed it to sit lower than the drain during partial fill, the oil would fill the radiator and lines first, and you could clamp it back in place near the end of the fill operation. I think it would be easiest to measure the quantity of oil that fills the entire system the first time, upon draining, then add almost that amount when changing, and relying on the sight glass to top it off.


 
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:42 PM   #64
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: S Florida
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I agree to some draining from the lines when draining oil out, but I will keep rpms low until cooler shows some temp. Don't really want to undo the cooler everytime, but I get your point. Had a Tacoma with 4 cyl with aftermarket transmission and engine oil coolers, drained them once but did not see any real benefit for doing it. Yes it's not a fair comparison because of the amount of oil Xpect vs Tacoma, but the cooler is 65ml and what ever lines hold and the filter maybe .25 quarts total. I know I put 1.4 or 1.5 quarts after the cooler it seems fine to me. Just too much work undoing to get that little out IMO.


 
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:02 PM   #65
LoneStarGazer   LoneStarGazer is offline
 
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I hear you, and if I were in your shoes I’d leave things be. Knowing me, however, if I can attach the radiator with clamps of some kind, without going to a lot of trouble, I’ll probably do it. If the oil circulates, which it apparently does, your point about taking it easy until the cooler gets warm makes good sense.
I’m actually in the market for a good used tacoma or 4-runner, but am wary of the 4 cyl engine, as I’d have gear including the bike on board, and might conceivably want to tow a small trailer. How’d the 4 work out for you?


 
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Old 06-25-2020, 08:54 AM   #66
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
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4 cyl is slow but the basic design of it dates back to mid 1990's I think just with more modern components and EFI. It's very durable and does have a very high resale value here in Florida. Its a popular import to the islands (Haiti and Jamaica) and very hard to find a decent used one for a good price. 2015 Tacoma still brings $18-20k here if its decent, whereas new 4cyl extended cab is $23K.

Since I put on my oil cooler, I put about 100 miles on it. I took apart the filter element with screen inside of it just see if everything was working as it should be. Had no problems, screen in place, hoses tight, and no leaks. As i put it together I let it idle and give it little gas to 2k rpm and in five minutes cooler and hoses are warm. Now got the piece of mind that everything is working as it should.


 
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Old 07-01-2020, 08:52 AM   #67
LoneStarGazer   LoneStarGazer is offline
 
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Anyone know what compatible footpegs, shift lever arm, and rear shocks are available for the Lifan X-Pect? I’d like to put on a longer shift lever, wider footpegs, and a shorter rear shock to lower the beast. The IMS replacement shift levers sold on Amazon are 1” longer, but I don’t know which one would fit.
Thanks!


 
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Old 07-04-2020, 04:15 PM   #68
NoirLord   NoirLord is offline
 
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Continuing to outfit my bike,I added auxiliary lights,some hd L brackets and longer bolts for the headlight side mounts Is all it took and it’s one step closer to adv status!
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:17 PM   #69
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoirLord View Post
Continuing to outfit my bike,I added auxiliary lights,some hd L brackets and longer bolts for the headlight side mounts Is all it took and it’s one step closer to adv status!
Nice lights, I ordered 9003 HB2 H4 halogen 2 pack from walmart.com for $15 when i first got my bike, much brighter than stock. I was a little puzzled by all the mods for LEDs. Your bike looks good, I've been taking long rides on A1A to Ft. Lauderdale racking up miles 1710 miles.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Voltage-A...ment/666638061
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Last edited by Jsalmi; 07-04-2020 at 05:18 PM. Reason: web
 
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:15 AM   #70
NoirLord   NoirLord is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsalmi View Post
Nice lights, I ordered 9003 HB2 H4 halogen 2 pack from walmart.com for $15 when i first got my bike, much brighter than stock. I was a little puzzled by all the mods for LEDs. Your bike looks good, I've been taking long rides on A1A to Ft. Lauderdale racking up miles 1710 miles.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Voltage-A...ment/666638061
I really want to do the windscreen mod like yours,I need to get a brighter headlight,it’s okay but I have lots of deer around here and I don’t want to hit one on some backroad some night. I only have 389 miles on mine,I did my 300 mile service this past Monday(minus adjusting the chain which I will do tomorrow). The shifting is pretty smooth now and I have had no issues with it,as I read everything that I could on them before I got it and addressed all the issues from the start,so thanks China riders!!
I can’t wait to take it on a moto camping trip! I mainly cruise backroads and ride to work half the time so not really any hiway speeds yet as I’m trying to keep it under 5k for break in. Has yours been pretty trouble free/reliable? I imagine so with the amount of miles you have logged



Last edited by NoirLord; 07-05-2020 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Misspelled words
 
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Old 07-05-2020, 04:48 AM   #71
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
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Never been stuck on the road, I do have roadside assistance from Progressive Insurance for $12 annually they will haul the bike to a repair shop if I can't figure it out. One thing that initially was holding me back was long high speed run and stop for gas or something. It will start but most likely stall and then vapor lock. It will take a few tries to get it running but not so cool to stall on the road. It gets very hot when you run wide open thats why added an oil cooler. I think at 600-1000 miles its broken in, my theory wide open 4th gear for a minute if she's going to blow or not. Rather have it blow when I'm prepared than when I'm not.


 
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Old 07-05-2020, 04:32 PM   #72
NoirLord   NoirLord is offline
 
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I have the same insurance on my bike,and I’ve been staying pretty close to home with it until I got to my third oil change/service at 300 miles. Today however I took it on a 100 mile round trip run to a state park(wish I had pictures but my phone wasn’t charged and it died on me) about 50/50 gravel/tarmac The highway stretch was 55mph with a couple of tiny towns where it dropped down to 35mph...I was cruising at 55-60 but at 7500-7800rpm, I definitely want to do the 17t front sprocket mod now. I also ordered the oil cooler because I definitely see it’s value on the long rides at wot or stuck in traffic and hitting every red light lol. Also have a usb charger, 15w fork oil And a windscreen ordered as of today. I am also replacing the front fork reflectors with tiny 2x2 led fog lights....I know what you all are thinking “enough with the lights already” but I like them regardless..Maybe some GoPro mounts too since there are all of About 6 videos of the xpect,and not that many modified ones out there In general. So I really kinda want to go all out to build a heavily modified Adv bike but keeping the cost in line fore what it is,so no $500 dollar panniers lol, just low buck useful mods that and kid could do.


 
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Old 07-05-2020, 05:03 PM   #73
stlouisweb   stlouisweb is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 6
Does anybody know of an EFI kit/controller for these bikes? I've put on a new air filter and exhaust, so I'm thinking fuel delivery would be the next step?

Also, I wonder if it would be possible to mate the 6 speed from a KPR200 to the Expect?


 
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Old 07-06-2020, 05:16 AM   #74
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
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What air filter did you go with? I can't find one.
Thanks



Last edited by Jsalmi; 07-06-2020 at 05:17 AM. Reason: spell
 
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Old 07-06-2020, 05:28 AM   #75
Jsalmi   Jsalmi is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
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Understand your build for ADV bike. I enjoy working on my bike and riding. Next looking for K&N type air filter or complete system. Chain has not given me any trouble, but want to replace within 2k-3k miles range. Thinking about some cool looking hand guards too.


 
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