Templar X 250

[Texas Pete]

I took a ton of photographs from the previous work done in the post above. One thing I decided to grab while I had parts of the bike and good access was the intake gasket.


Everyone has reported no gasket.


I even thought I had no gasket, all my work on the intake manifold has been from the top and from the side looking down. Everything looked like gray metal to me.


However, after working on it, I had the skid plate off the bike and was looking around the bottom of the motor when I looked up at the intake manifold and said to myself, WTH?!! I clearly saw a gasket corner. I wiggled the corner back and forth with my fingers just to make sure it really was and it did flex and as it flexed the gray coloring flaked off and it became a lot easier to see that it is indeed a paper/material gasket of some sort.


I took a photograph of it in case internet detectives would like a look. Maybe with this angle and photograph it may encourage a few more in depth bottom up inspections under the intake and see if I am a rare one off with gasket on my Templar X 250 or if there are others out there that discover similar on their bikes.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Yes. They were tight. I did the 1/8th on both. Took lots of photos but of course, I also have it not fully re-assembled. I want to also change the oil and then reinstall the skid plate and re-zip-tie my hour meter on my spark plug boot. Then I'll fire it up and see how different it performs, if I notice anything.


In the meantime I took a ton of photos, I might make a separate post on it one day.

"Tight" as in too tight or just right? I just checked mine and they were a tight .002" (Just right). I reset them to tight .002" intake and loose .002" exhaust but now I hear some light tapping on the exhaust side so I'm going back to the tight .002" it came set to. None of us even know whether the gap on this particular engine opens or closes with heat.

[Fast_Freddy]

HTT hasn't responded yet so I ordered one of these to test fit. If it fits I'll cut the dipstick to length and score some notches in for low/high oil level.

Techtip: If you want to make a dipstick easier to read use some sandpaper.

[Fast_Freddy]

So this doesn't fit the base Templar. The frame is in the way. The threads match but it's too tall. It might fit the X/M. I haven't heard back from HSI (HTT maker) and I'm done for now. Maybe if the HTT-2 becomes available again I may buy one and mod it with a dipstick.

[DanDLion]

Does anyone know what the thread size is on the oil drain plug for the Templar X? I am looking at either a magnetic drain plug or a quick change drain plug but am unsure on thread size for ordering. Ty!

[Nutcracker]

Just clocked 12.7 miles of muddy logging trails 6 miles from my house. A little over 25 miles total.

Strangely I carried a meat thermometer with me to check oil temps against the Summit HH2 oil cap. The little Cap works very well within 5 degrees of my meat thermometer. Average was 180° & highest I saw was 205. That was after 5 min stretch of high RPM 1st gear what the hell have I got myself into mud slinging... The motor and header was popping while cooling down but 205° was the hottest the oil got. To me that's very good I figured this engine would run in 250s easily. Once back in stock there a nice addition.

Also I decided to test is a Chinese knock off (Atlas) Throttle lock on this bike. I used the Top kit but believe the bottom kit would work better. Link below...



https://www.ebay.com/itm/36412830270...mis&media=COPY

[Zooker89]

So I did the valve adjustment this morning and am glad I did. The exhaust valve had no play and the intake valve was clamped down even tighter.

I did verify that mine came with an intake gasket, so one thing off the checklist.

[DanDLion]

I saw aftermarket front fenders by Cycra that were vented and decided to do a little simple DIY project. I was worried about it looking like random swiss cheese so I took some time and came up with a pattern and I am pretty happy with how it turned out.

Being in AZ I am pretty concerned about heat, and I realize this going to do much honestly, maybe 1% improvement (if that); but it was fun and I think it also looks kinda cool.

I think the most of the holes are small enough to still provide protection from rocks, some mud will probably get through but that requires it to rain here

[DanDLion]

Hi all, another mod this weekend for me.

I was wanting some sort of fuel gauge, the best I could find online was by LSK https://www.lskelectronics.com/fuelgaugepro1 which is a really sleek looking setup, however $130 for a fuel gauge was not in the budget at this time.

Looking online more I saw gas tank sight glasses for motorcycles, but it required drilling of the tank which I wasn't going to do, and it got me to thinking about it and realized I could do it DIY style a lot cheaper. I tee'd off the fuel line after the petcock and before the filter and ran a line to a 2-way petcock and a clear line up to the vent line. I then installed a stainless steel spring protector.

I added the 2-way petcock as there is a lot of talk online of clear fuel lines hardening and cracking, so the petcock is there to prevent loss of fuel, I can just open the petcock to see my fuel level and then turn it back off. And it will be easy enough to swap the clear fuel line in the future as needed.

I am glad I went with the spring protector as when sitting on the bike my leg does touch this line and in general its a bit of a liability now, although that's one reason for the petcock on this setup. I may reroute it between the holes in the plastics in the future as this would move it away from my leg. After some riding well see about that one.

You will notice in the last picture adding that tee moved the fuel filter back and is somewhat pinching the fuel line after the filter now, so a 90deg fuel filter will be added in very soon to this setup.

Overall I am very happy with the outcome for now, its nice to be able to have some indication of fuel level.

[Bruces]

No idea on your specific bike ,try kick stand up ,and /or pulling in the front brake as they are common safety start switches

[Thumper]

Templar has no safety switch. YES, you must pull the front brake lever to start. I guess that is the "safety switch"

[Zooker89]

So after adjusting the valves, I finally put some fuel in and fired it up only to hear it ticking like a time bomb.

I used a .0015" feeler gauge and did the 1/8th turn from snug closed...

I used the old screwdriver stethoscope trick and it sounds like it is more from the intake, but noticeable from both.

So now I have to take it all apart again and readjust...

Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Zooker89

So after adjusting the valves, I finally put some fuel in and fired it up only to hear it ticking like a time bomb.

I used a .0015" feeler gauge and did the 1/8th turn from snug closed...

I used the old screwdriver stethoscope trick and it sounds like it is more from the intake, but noticeable from both.

So now I have to take it all apart again and readjust...

Any thoughts or tricks would be appreciated.

If you used the 0015" feeler after ~1/8th turn, that is the right setting. The question is were BOTH valves closed on that cycle? It is every other 360 degrees on the crank, with |T (TDC) lined up in the view port.

[Zooker89]

Originally Posted by Thumper

If you used the 0015" feeler after ~1/8th turn, that is the right setting. The question is were BOTH valves closed on that cycle? It is every other 360 degrees on the crank, with |T (TDC) lined up in the view port.

Thanks for the response.

So, I was able to identify the exhaust open cycle and adjusted that one first, rotated the crank 360* then adjusted the intake. When I found the intake cycle, there was absolutely no gap.

I tried the .0015" feeler, but wasn't comfortable that it was correct. It is really hard to get the feeler in there... I then switched to the 1/8 turn from snug without the feeler.

Should it be 1/8th off snug on the feeler? this to me would be more gap than what I assume I had.

I am also assuming if my gap is too big, this is when I would get the ticking noise. Am I thinking backwards? Is my gap actually too tight?

[chris56ford]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Templar has no safety switch. YES, you must pull the front brake lever to start. I guess that is the "safety switch"

Thank you very much, that was it!! Never had a bike that needed the front brake pulled to start. I was looking for a kick stand safety, pulling the clutch in, never thought about the brake....

Anyways, it runs great! I'm at 4200ft elevation, so far I think the jetting might be okay.