New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[pete]

Blue for me...
so when are you doing the promotional tour to CHCH.....

[katflap]

geez my parts for the new rx3 i ordered from taobo,,have been in ordered status for over a month,any luck with yours Spud?

I placed an order with Taobao on the 3rd of march .Yesterday (9th April) I received notification that they have my goods and also sent pictures of my items without having to ask, which I thought was pretty good.

So I think its just a case of hanging in there :tup:


If you order the split plastic cover from Taobao you won't need to mess around with those bolts. ;)

Good idea I will pick one up in my next order :tup:

Good to hear that your bikes have arrived at CSC :yay:

[Weldangrind]

Not an official colour (yet) but it seems that if we want it, the RX3 can also come in black.

That reminds me of the Monster Dark Ducati. I like it, but I think some colour would help with visibility for cagers.

[Veteran]

Sorry if this has been answered previously; does anyone know how big the roundel on the tank fairing is across the face? Diameter?
Are our bikes coming with a "CSC" roundel or the "Zongshen" one?

[katflap]

Sorry if this has been answered previously; does anyone know how big the roundel on the tank fairing is across the face? Diameter?
Are our bikes coming with a "CSC" roundel or the "Zongshen" one?

The roundel badge thing on the Honley Rx3 is approx (couldn't find me glasses) :D 58mm in diameter.

I think I read on here somewhere that yours comes with the CSC badge

[SpudRider]

Sorry if this has been answered previously; does anyone know how big the roundel on the tank fairing is across the face? Diameter?
Are our bikes coming with a "CSC" roundel or the "Zongshen" one?

The CSC bikes will be rebadged with the CSC roundels near the fuel tank.

[dieselrider]

Not an official colour (yet) but it seems that if we want it, the RX3 can also come in black.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RX3-black.jpg

Any takers?

Interesting that you've posted a black rx3...I've had grandiose visions of wrapping mine in black (probably matte black)...theirs a good chance i'm going to do it...it will also serve to protect the original colour underneath too...If CSC offered it in black...that's what i would have chosen.

[Adjuster]

What do you guys think costs more to manufacture? Spoked tube rims or mag tubeless rims? Just looking at the above picture thinking that bike would look great with mag tubeless rims.


/

[Huck369]

What do you guys think costs more to manufacture? Spoked tube rims or mag tubeless rims? Just looking at the above picture thinking that bike would look great with mag tubeless rims.


/

Zong offers a tubeless mag wheels for the Cyclone....I think CSC were looking into offering them as options....but only come in the 15" rear wheel, a 18" front

[The Thinker]

This bike in black with tubeless mags would be one of the best looking machines rolling down the block in my opinion :) definitely going to get it in black!

[Belamoto]

Blue for me...
so when are you doing the promotional tour to CHCH.....

You mean something like this ;)

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-blue.jpg

Promotional tour to CHCH - absolutely. North island first I'm afraid but we will definitely get down your way.

[Belamoto]

This bike in black with tubeless mags would be one of the best looking machines rolling down the block in my opinion :) definitely going to get it in black!

Black mags are an option but like Huck369 said, only available in 18" and 15". And don't get too excited about getting a black RX3 just yet. You'll have to speak nicely to the guys at CSC first ;)

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RX3-mags.jpg

[Mudflap]

You can spray a bike with black or other color Plasti-Dip and it looks good if you're going for the flat black look. When you get tired of it just peel it off and it's back to original. Protects the paint underneath too.

This bike in black with tubeless mags would be one of the best looking machines rolling down the block in my opinion :) definitely going to get it in black!

[oldqwerty]

How so? Not to be critical but I geuss I'll be critical. Having done all my own maintance on all of my bikes I don't see the Zong being any more expensive then my other bikes, more likely a little less. In all reality the owner ship cost of most most is vastly less if you do all your wrenching. If you ride a lot it's mostly just tires.

Now I have lots farkling plans that I'm sure will cost me a little bit at the beginning.

It's all relative. I'm spoiled. I've been riding TW200s mostly, with sealed batteries, o-ring chains, and all LED and HID lights. A complete service is a quart of oil and a few squirts of various maintenance goos. Takes about an hour. All filters are reusable, chain stretches so slowly adjustments are only needed when wheels with different tires are changed out for different types of riding, tires with Ride On last 20,000 miles, only two valves with the same adjustment style as the RX3, changed the spark plug at 28,000 miles, clutch at 16,000 due to oil mislabeled by supplier ... .

I'm not doing a lot of extras. Ordered the good luggage and center stand. I'm liking the 6 watt LED spots, and I've ordered some super high intensity LED TTL/strobes for the back like those used on emergency vehicles. All the rest of the bulbs will be replaced with LEDs, too. Might do HIDs for headlights, we'll see how the spots do. Probably will snag a sheepskin and some gel grips for comfort, and make some guards to keep the Hippo Hands off the levers in the winter, and that's about it for the bolt-ons. High visibility paint and some type of auxiliary fuel tank is about all the customizing I intend to do. Almost nothing compared to what it takes to get a TW or XT to the same state of readiness.

[SpudRider]

It's all relative. I'm spoiled. I've been riding TW200s mostly, with sealed batteries, o-ring chains, and all LED and HID lights. A complete service is a quart of oil and a few squirts of various maintenance goos. Takes about an hour. All filters are reusable, chain stretches so slowly adjustments are only needed (rarely)...

Indeed, the maintenance for the Yamaha TW200, and my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 which employs the same engine, is very minimal. :tup: My Zong requires the least maintenance of any of my four motorcycles. :)

I employ AGM batteries, O-ring drive chains, and LED lights on my bikes. However, changing the oil on my Zong is the simplest procedure for all of my motorcycles, and one never needs to check the coolant or watch the temperature on an air cooled engine. ;) Having said all this, the maintenance required for the Zongshen RX3 will also be pretty simple. :)

[SpudRider]

What do you guys think costs more to manufacture? Spoked tube rims or mag tubeless rims? Just looking at the above picture thinking that bike would look great with mag tubeless rims.


/

Tubeless mag wheels look good, and make tire repairs/changes easier. :) However, mag wheels aren't as strong as wheels with spokes; therefore, mag wheels are much more likely to be damaged during off road riding. ;) As Huck stated, the RX3 mag wheels are only available in a 15-inch rear, and an 18-inch front. However, since the mag wheels are much better suited for street riding, the lack of knobby tires for the 15-inch rear wheel is less troublesome. ;)

[SpudRider]

This bike in black with tubeless mags would be one of the best looking machines rolling down the block in my opinion :) definitely going to get it in black!

The mag wheels are definitely available in black. :)

http://img03.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i3/TB1sx4JHXXXXXcKXFXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg

http://img02.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i2/295786805/TB2Ij0QbFXXXXccXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!295786805.jpg

As far as I know, the only other color available for the mag wheels is gold. Personally, I much prefer the black wheels. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/exhaust%20header%20bung_zps9fmprjll_1.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/exhaust%20header%20bung_zps9fmprjll_1.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

...Some pondering on replacement tires:

I expect the 120/70-17 rear tire to be about 24.5 inches tall and 4.8 inches wide? Perhaps 25.1 inches tall and 3.9 inches wide for the 100/90-18 front?

The Kenda K760 Track Master II is a DOT approved 5-3 knobby that has worked extremely well in the dirt on a TW200. I'm wondering if a 130/90-17 (26.3/5.5) will fit on the back of a Cyclone? This would allow a little height to maintain steering geometry with the 19 inch front. These rear tires also come in 100/100-18 (25.9/4.5) and 100/90-19 (26.1/4.1) that might fit the front, but be warned, TWs don't like these on pavement on the front, especially when new.

The Kenda K784 Big Block comes in a 100/90-19 (26.1/4) front and 130/80-17 (25.2/5.1) rear. If they will fit they will sacrifice a little gnarly dirt traction for much improved ride and life over the K760. No 18 inch front option with the Big Block.

The venerable Kenda K270 is the most street friendly of the Kenda DOT knobbies and comes in 100/90-18 (25.8/4.1), 4.60-17 (25.7/4.3), and 5.10-17 (25.9/5.4), so a little ruler work might set us up. No 19-inch front option with the K270.

For the muddiest terrain, you can't beat the Kenda, K760 rear tire. :tup: The Kenda Big Block is another nice choice for the rear tire. :)

I have several favorites tires for the 18-inch front wheel. For nasty mud, the CST Surge I tire is available in size 110/90-18. :tup:

http://www.motoparthub.com/TM53270000_CST_Surge_I_C7209_c7210_Tire_Cst_Sur_I_ 110_90_18?src=Google&gclid=CJ7GpOex7cQCFU6UfgodSSsALg

http://www.csttires.com/us/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/03/C7210_Surge-I_R.png

The Shinko 244 front tire in size 3.00-18 is very nice for pavement and riding off road in dry terrain. :)

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/15034/i/shinko-244-dual-sport-front---rear-tire&colorid=9&sizeid=2828?siteID=CSE_GBase_142560&WT.mc_ID=80003&P_ID=142560&P_ID=1330994933&adpos=1o1&creative=60619479413&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SITEID=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+Product+Level+Ads+-+Google+Shopping+Campaign+Brands&gclid=CPmcyaey7cQCFZGTfgodkWkA_w

I had this tire mounted on the 18-inch front wheel of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and it did a very good job, except in mud. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%20Front%20Tires/JulyZongAdventuresTires043.jpg

[pete]

try the Shinko 700....
best 50/50 ADV tire I have used
onto my 4th set on the XT..

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg563/petenz1/SAM_0161.jpg (http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/petenz1/media/SAM_0161.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

...If you order the split plastic cover from Taobao you won't need to mess around with those bolts. ;)

...Good idea I will pick one up in my next order :tup: ...

Here's the link at Taobao. ;)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.108.SFMmT3&id=42129715713&ns=1&abbucket=20#detail

http://img03.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i3/TB1anwiGFXXXXbCXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg

[SpudRider]

try the Shinko 700....
best 50/50 ADV tire I have used
onto my 4th set on the XT..

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg563/petenz1/SAM_0161.jpg (http://s1244.photobucket.com/user/petenz1/media/SAM_0161.jpg.html)

That is another good tire, Pete. :tup: The size 5.10-17 tire will fit the rear wheel of the RX3. :)

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/15048/i/shinko-700-series-dual-sport-rear-tire&colorid=9&sizeid=8980?siteID=CSE_GBase_142657&WT.mc_ID=80003&P_ID=142657&P_ID=1330994933&adpos=1o1&creative=60619479413&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SITEID=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+Product+Level+Ads+-+Google+Shopping+Campaign+Brands&gclid=CLaq1OK47cQCFUuTfgode1YA2Q

http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/productimages/OG/0000_shinko_700_series_dual_sport_rear_tire_--.jpg

[Weldangrind]

Tubeless mag wheels look good, and make tire repairs/changes easier. :) However, mag wheels aren't as strong as wheels with spokes; therefore, mag wheels are much more likely to be damaged during off road riding. ;) As Huck stated, the RX3 mag wheels are only available in a 15-inch rear, and an 18-inch front. However, since the mag wheels are much better suited for street riding, the lack of knobby tires for the 15-inch rear wheel is less troublesome. ;)

X2 on all points. As well, a spoked wheel is repairable by the rider, whereas a damaged mag wheel becomes a larger issue.

[Mudflap]

How many miles do you get out of a Shinko 700 rear tire?

That is another good tire, Pete. :tup: The size 5.10-17 tire will fit the rear wheel of the RX3. :)

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/15048/i/shinko-700-series-dual-sport-rear-tire&colorid=9&sizeid=8980?siteID=CSE_GBase_142657&WT.mc_ID=80003&P_ID=142657&P_ID=1330994933&adpos=1o1&creative=60619479413&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&SITEID=Google+SEARCH+NON-BRAND+Product+Level+Ads+-+Google+Shopping+Campaign+Brands&gclid=CLaq1OK47cQCFUuTfgode1YA2Q

http://images.motorcycle-superstore.com/productimages/OG/0000_shinko_700_series_dual_sport_rear_tire_--.jpg

[pete]

Around 3000 / 3500 km on the rear..
Thats on a Yamaha XT660R.. I run the
rear at 23/25lbs , 29/30lbs is optimin on
the seal....
On a small 250 I would think somewhere
around 4500 / 5000k could be possable...

[Mudflap]

Thanks. I can usually squeeze almost 4000 miles out of a Shinko 244 and was looking for something that would last a bit longer. The tread on the 700 looked like it would go farther.

Around 3000 / 3500 km on the rear..
Thats on a Yamaha XT660R.. I run the
rear at 23/25lbs , 29/30lbs is optimin on
the seal....
On a small 250 I would think somewhere
around 4500 / 5000k could be possable...

[pete]

Thanks. I can usually squeeze almost 4000 miles out of a Shinko 244 and was looking for something that would last a bit longer. The tread on the 700 looked like it would go farther.


Read this....
some seem to get more miles /km than I do..
{hope it works with out being a member.....}

http://www.remotemoto.com/tyres/shinko-e700-rear/







.

[cimarronEric]

Ordered my first motorcycle on Wednesday after taking the MSF class over the previous weekend. Orange RX-3. Thank you to everyone who participates in this thread. It's been a great learning experience to read through it. Looking forward to participating myself once I have something to ask or share.

[SpudRider]

Welcome; we are glad you joined us. :hi:

You were very wise to take the MSF rider course; that is some of the best money you will ever spend. :) Congratulations on ordering your new orange RX3, and welcome to The Cult of The Zong. ;)

Incidentally, I will soon own two, orange Zongshen motorcycles. :) I went for a ride Thursday on my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, which now has recorded over 68,000 miles on the odometer. :tup: Zongshen builds excellent engines and very good motorcycles. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1704_zpsfcvizljs.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1704_zpsfcvizljs.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1730_zpspzdhmsmg.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1730_zpspzdhmsmg.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1729_zpsbpribjlz.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1729_zpsbpribjlz.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1713_zpskgwearch.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1713_zpskgwearch.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1727_zpsmhroexh4.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1727_zpsmhroexh4.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1719_zpsr2ynxptb.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1719_zpsr2ynxptb.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1700_zps3am7v0la.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1700_zps3am7v0la.jpg.html)

[Adjuster]

Man those are some crazy nice photos. I don't have many views like that here in Florida.


/

[SpudRider]

Thank you. The winters are long, but Idaho is a beautiful place to ride. :)

The RX3 bikes will soon arrive to more owners, but it's always nice to see a new video. ;) Here is a nice long video of a Honley Venturer 250 riding in its native habitat. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zmsib99XDH4

[SpudRider]

Here is a Zongshen RX3 video posted by World China Motor Corporation. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pg2MKZqWqK4

[dieselrider]

Joe...your killing us all by posting pics of the first new owners. Those that don't have the option to pick up our bikes are joansin' ...aaahhh:cry: , but it's obvious that your expediting deliveries, because we all know your not open on the weekends, but your staying open to get the bikes out to their new respective owners... you rock!

[culcune]

I hope these new owners shown on the CSC blog are being steered here to chinariders. I do believe the RX3 needs its own forum now, just to keep up with all the goings on.

[paisleyrider]

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/index.php

[SpudRider]

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/index.php

Welcome; we are glad you joined us. :hi: Thanks for posting the link to the new forum. :)

[oldqwerty]

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/index.php

Seems like the server is so slow my browser times out. Unless that is fixed the forum is useless.

EDIT: Tweeked some browser and website settings for speed and it's working good enough now.

[culcune]

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/index.php

Wow! that was quick!! :)

I actually meant that this thread has gotten so long that it should be put in its own section so that it does not have to compete with the other dual-sport/enduro threads. People like me who are still considering one of these bikes could keep discussing our old bikes AND keep up with the discussions of the RX3.

[dieselrider]

I hope these new owners shown on the CSC blog are being steered here to chinariders. I do believe the RX3 needs its own forum now, just to keep up with all the goings on.

http://www.rx3forums.com/forums/

[paisleyrider]

I agree, culcune. An RX3-specific chinariders subforum of some kind would be a good thing :tup:

With the buzz that this bike is going to make, I think there is more than enough room for multiple forums.

Oh, and hello from Cali, everyone :hi:

[oldqwerty]

I agree, culcune. An RX3-specific chinariders subforum of some kind would be a good thing :tup:

With the buzz that this bike is going to make, I think there is more than enough room for multiple forums.

Oh, and hello from Cali, everyone :hi:

More isn't automatically better. One forum is enough. Keep it simple. Way too much road kill on the information superhighway as it is. Just my worthless opinion.

[Huck369]

More isn't automatically better. One forum is enough. Keep it simple. Way too much road kill on the information superhighway as it is. Just my worthless opinion.

I've registered at that new Site, but would just as soon there be a Sub-Forum here on China-riders for the RX-3, but hopefully the Cyclone will be popular enough to support multiple forums :)

[Weldangrind]

Way too much road kill on the information superhighway as it is.

That's going on the fridge. :D

[rjmorel]

I agree, culcune. An RX3-specific chinariders subforum of some kind would be a good thing :tup:

With the buzz that this bike is going to make, I think there is more than enough room for multiple forums.

Oh, and hello from Cali, everyone :hi:

I kinda thought this was an RX3 specific subforum already?????? according to this:

ChinaRiders Forums > Technical/Performance > Dual Sport/Enduro
> New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

rj

[Huck369]

I kinda thought this was an RX3 specific subforum already?????? according to this:

ChinaRiders Forums > Technical/Performance > Dual Sport/Enduro
> New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

rj

Nope, this is just a Thread in the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Sub-Forum
If the Cyclone had it's own Sub Forum to the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Forum, there could be multiple thread for different things about the Cyclone....a tire thread, a ride thread, a picture thread, Modification thread...ext, ext making it easier to find info about a specific subject about the Cyclone RX-3 (instead of digging thru 185 pages of "everything Cyclone" :)

[cimarronEric]

Nope, this is just a Thread in the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Sub-Forum
If the Cyclone had it's own Sub Forum to the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Forum, there could be multiple thread for different things about the Cyclone....a tire thread, a ride thread, a picture thread, Modification thread...ext, ext making it easier to find info about a specific subject about the Cyclone RX-3 (instead of digging thru 185 pages of "everything Cyclone" :)

That would be pretty sweet:clap:

[rjmorel]

Agreed , way better, I vote for this to happen, rj

[oldqwerty]

That's going on the fridge. :D

Yup. I keep my sticker right between a couple more addressing contemporary diseducation sources, but lets not go there.

[SpudRider]

I kinda thought this was an RX3 specific subforum already?????? according to this:

ChinaRiders Forums > Technical/Performance > Dual Sport/Enduro
> New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

rj

Nope, this is just a Thread in the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Sub-Forum
If the Cyclone had it's own Sub Forum to the "Dual Sport/Enduro" Forum, there could be multiple thread for different things about the Cyclone....a tire thread, a ride thread, a picture thread, Modification thread...ext, ext making it easier to find info about a specific subject about the Cyclone RX-3 (instead of digging thru 185 pages of "everything Cyclone" :)

This Dual Sport/Enduro Forum contains threads on many different Chinese enduro motorcycles. This Zongshen RX3 megathread is over a year old, and its purpose was to let people know about the introduction of the RX3 motorcycle, and its eventual arrival in the North America, et cetera. I enjoy this thread very much, since it serves as an international gathering place to welcome people, and it introduces a great variety of new information on the Zongshen RX3 bike. However, this Dual Sport Forum also contains many other threads covering specific topics on the Zongshen RX3 motorcycle. For example, here is a list of several other RX3 threads located in this Dual Sport Forum.

Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Engine Videos (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14121)
Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3): Delphi Multec EFI (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14126)
RX3 Videos from the Zongshen RX3 Thread (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14270)
Zongshen RX3 Tire Options (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14566)

This list is far from comprehensive. One only has to scan the contents of this forum, and he will find many other threads concerning the Zongshen RX3 motorcycle. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

However, if the forum owner decides to create a new Adventure Bike or Zongshen RX3 specific area at this website, I will certainly move all of the existing RX3 threads to the appropriate new location(s). :)

[Veteran]

PM sent.

[Veteran]

Yeah, I'm weak. After seeing the pictures of the white RX3 on the blog, I caved and ordered a second one for myself today to be delivered with the Blue one I ordered for my wife. I'm getting them delivered to my house in Oregon on or about the 18th of August as a surprise anniversary gift to my wife, (and me). I was super torn between the white and the Orange, but my BMW F650 is "Mango", kind of an Orangish-yellow, so I'm branching out. I just have to stay strong and not call CSC and change my mind on the color 3 dozen times between now and then, (please lord, let them sell out of the Orange soon so I'm not so conflicted!!!)

I'll be going home on vacation for a couple of weeks starting 15 August so I can be there when they get there. I'll get Barb, (my wife), to help me assemble them. She's a hot mess with a wrench but I'm an experienced motorcycle/car/boat/helicopter/lawn mower fiddler, so they should come together with no problem.

I think I'll start shopping for new riding gear for her, (I don't need any). She's not crazy about full face helmets but after I broke a few ribs just before Christmas, (here in Haiti of all places), and would have been knocked out cold and possibly killed, (definately robbed - I see that every week), if I hadn't been wearing a good helmet; I predict an Arai XD in her future too unless someone has a better idea. I've got probably a dozen mid-priced DS helmets, but she deserves the best. I figure I saved enough money on the bike that I can afford a good helmet for her.

On second thought, maybe I better let her choose what gear she wants because she's a woman and colors seem important to those things.

Before I forget; I dealt with Ryan at CSC on the second bike too and I'm really impressed with his patience and follow-through on answers. It was an extremely easy transaction both times.

[Miss America]

Colors are important, but should DEFINITELY take a back seat to safety! I, personally, ride in gender neutral high viz yellow, just to ensure those coffee drinking, cell phone talking cagers can see me just a little bit better. They have some great hot pink high viz gear for women now as long as some other bright colors... if she's into that sort of thing.

I've found that Cycle Gear carries a decent amount of women's gear, so I visit them often to try on riding jeans, jackets, gloves, etc... Not sure if there's one close to you, but they've got my vote as far as trying stuff on.

On the helmets... be sure she tries them on before buying. I have an Arai Quantum, but it's the only Arai that fits my head shape without pressure points. The fit is most important as if she gets a helmet that hurts her head, so won't be comfortable when riding. :-)

Congrats to you both on your new bikes!! Glad to see more ladies riding their own RX3s!!


Yeah, I'm weak. After seeing the pictures of the white RX3 on the blog, I caved and ordered a second one for myself today to be delivered with the Blue one I ordered for my wife. I'm getting them delivered to my house in Oregon on or about the 18th of August as a surprise anniversary gift to my wife, (and me). I was super torn between the white and the Orange, but my BMW F650 is "Mango", kind of an Orangish-yellow, so I'm branching out. I just have to stay strong and not call CSC and change my mind on the color 3 dozen times between now and then, (please lord, let them sell out of the Orange soon so I'm not so conflicted!!!)

I'll be going home on vacation for a couple of weeks starting 15 August so I can be there when they get there. I'll get Barb, (my wife), to help me assemble them. She's a hot mess with a wrench but I'm an experienced motorcycle/car/boat/helicopter/lawn mower fiddler, so they should come together with no problem.

I think I'll start shopping for new riding gear for her, (I don't need any). She's not crazy about full face helmets but after I broke a few ribs just before Christmas, (here in Haiti of all places), and would have been knocked out cold and possibly killed, (definately robbed - I see that every week), if I hadn't been wearing a good helmet; I predict an Arai XD in her future too unless someone has a better idea. I've got probably a dozen mid-priced DS helmets, but she deserves the best. I figure I saved enough money on the bike that I can afford a good helmet for her.

On second thought, maybe I better let her choose what gear she wants because she's a woman and colors seem important to those things.

Before I forget; I dealt with Ryan at CSC on the second bike too and I'm really impressed with his patience and follow-through on answers. It was an extremely easy transaction both times.

[Veteran]

Colors are important, but should DEFINITELY take a back seat to safety! I, personally, ride in gender neutral high viz yellow, just to ensure those coffee drinking, cell phone talking cagers can see me just a little bit better. They have some great hot pink high viz gear for women now as long as some other bright colors... if she's into that sort of thing.

I've found that Cycle Gear carries a decent amount of women's gear, so I visit them often to try on riding jeans, jackets, gloves, etc... Not sure if there's one close to you, but they've got my vote as far as trying stuff on.

On the helmets... be sure she tries them on before buying. I have an Arai Quantum, but it's the only Arai that fits my head shape without pressure points. The fit is most important as if she gets a helmet that hurts her head, so won't be comfortable when riding. :-)

Congrats to you both on your new bikes!! Glad to see more ladies riding their own RX3s!!

Thanks, that's good advice and exactly how I feel. I too wear Hi-viz gear. We don't have any major shops near where my house is, but I'll definately take her somehwere where there are shops so she can try the gear on. I doubt I'll ever get her in Hi-viz, but we'll see.

Most of our riding is on back roads and fire roads that are not highly trafficked...but that's not the point. I like being noticed early when Billy-Bob come careening around a mountain road looking for deer to poach. She's more of a Sunday nice weather rider. Whereas I enjoy a little misery, she doesn't. I'm hoping she'll enjoy riding more with a more suitable steed, (the RX3).

[SpudRider]

PM sent.

I got your PM, and send you a reply. :)

[SpudRider]

Yeah, I'm weak. After seeing the pictures of the white RX3 on the blog, I caved and ordered a second one for myself today to be delivered with the Blue one I ordered for my wife...

Good for you and your lovely wife. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Colors are important, but should DEFINITELY take a back seat to safety! I, personally, ride in gender neutral high viz yellow, just to ensure those coffee drinking, cell phone talking cagers can see me just a little bit better. They have some great hot pink high viz gear for women now as long as some other bright colors... if she's into that sort of thing.

I've found that Cycle Gear carries a decent amount of women's gear, so I visit them often to try on riding jeans, jackets, gloves, etc... Not sure if there's one close to you, but they've got my vote as far as trying stuff on.

On the helmets... be sure she tries them on before buying. I have an Arai Quantum, but it's the only Arai that fits my head shape without pressure points. The fit is most important as if she gets a helmet that hurts her head, so won't be comfortable when riding. :-)

Congrats to you both on your new bikes!! Glad to see more ladies riding their own RX3s!!

Thanks for posting the excellent, helpful advice. :tup:

[culcune]

One forum is enough. Keep it simple. Way too much road kill on the information superhighway as it is. Just my worthless opinion.

LOL on the quote! It is too late as someone created a whole forum site dedicated to the RX-3; what I meant is to simply move this thread to its own subcategory to be able to find it quickly and easily. Not that it isn't usually the top of the 'Dual Sport/Enduro' section, but sometimes several other posts push it down.

I am fairly certain I will be buying one of these, but in a few months, and by then, I would hate to have to possibly search for this thread. I am quite certain that Spud will be taking his bike apart and putting it back together keeping this thread relevant enough, but Spud could take a long road trip on his RX3 and not post anything for a while! It could happen...;)

A good example--his Zongshen GY2 thread is not that easy to find...

[Belamoto]

... I predict an Arai XD in her future too unless someone has a better idea...

At the moment I'm happy with my Acerbis Active but if I were buying I'd take a serious look at the NEXX XD1.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/nexx.jpg

[pete]

any helmet with a peak at 100kmph / 60mph
is a pain wheather it has vents or not to let
the air though.... My AGV road helmet is my first
choice for long road work...

[Belamoto]

any helmet with a peak at 100kmph / 60mph
is a pain wheather it has vents or not to let
the air though.... My AGV road helmet is my first
choice for long road work...

Depends how much wind protection the RX3 screen provides. On my GSA the screen is big enough that my peak is no problem at motorway speeds. If anything, I'll be going a tad slower on the RX3 ;)

[Veteran]

I got your PM, and send you a reply. :)

Thanks Spud. I searched high and low for a definative answer on that one.

[Huck369]

Depends how much wind protection the RX3 screen provides. On my GSA the screen is big enough that my peak is no problem at motorway speeds. If anything, I'll be going a tad slower on the RX3 ;)

I have several helmets, and I prefer one with a visor on an "Adventure" bike, or an off-road bike, as speeds are usually slower, and I generally have a windshield on mine that helps with windblast....when I'll be riding in and out of trees/shaded areas, I prefer to not wear sunglasses, and the visor really helps under those conditions.....really just depends on what kind of riding I'm headed out to do, on which helmet I pick up.

[G19Tony]

I was hoping it would be done early this week, so I could do a fly and ride, but, it was not to be. I'll make a run early Friday morning in the truck, scoop it up and head back to Vegas. :tup:

[SpudRider]

I was hoping it would be done early this week, so I could do a fly and ride, but, it was not to be. I'll make a run early Friday morning in the truck, scoop it up and head back to Vegas. :tup:

Good for you, Tony. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Thanks Spud. I searched high and low for a definative answer on that one.

You're welcome. :)

[G19Tony]

I just ordered these for the RX-3.

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=NexGen_00

The original style would be better, but finding a top clamp match, I'm guessing would be pretty hard. The universal fit will work fine. :)

[SpudRider]

Please do post a review of these handgards after you receive them. :)

[oldqwerty]

Veteran, thanks for your service.

I appreciate your thoughtfulness towards your wife's surviving a drop. I love an MX style helmet and goggles for running logging and forest and ranch roads and such, and even for 2-lane black top because goggles keep the dirt out of my eyes. I sometimes modify the visor attachment hardware to 1/4 turns such as Dzus for extended highway legs. It only takes a couple seconds to deal with such fasteners. I cut a pattern from a shoe box to use to cut static window tint to slap inside the goggles for running without a visor on sunny days. Well worth the effort.

The best helmet is the one that fits, regardless of cost. Tight spots transfer energy without dissipating or distributing, increasing the likelihood of injury. Loose spots allow shift before slamming in to the head, increasing the likelihood of injury. Helmet fit should match head shape as well as size. Ask any EMT that's scraped up a few carcasses with ill fitting helmets.

I look for DOT, but avoid SNELL like the plague because to need the level of protection a SNELL helmet provides would pretty much equal two RX3s running WFO having a head-on. Generally, a not-SNELL DOT will be destroyed and run out of protection about when a SNELL starts to fail and starts to protect. I've seen lots of scratched up SNELL helmets not crushed on unconscious riders, and lots of not-SNELL helmets destroyed, yet the riders were able to jump up and pick up their own bikes.

Structural failure provides the third means engineered into a helmet to prevent energy from reaching the head--absorbing energy through crushing the helmet's structure. A structure that doesn't fail transmits energy directly to the head. Not good.

Please encourage your wife to seek a softer, non-SNELL helmet, especially if she is a slow-down-and-smell-the-road-kill rider. She will be much better protected by a cheaper, softer helmet doing the type of riding you described than by a high dollar competition rated SNELL model. Besides, for the same money she can have a variety of helmets in different colors and styles to fit her moods.

[oldqwerty]

Any word on when the shipping will start?

[Veteran]

Veteran, thanks for your service.

I appreciate your thoughtfulness towards your wife's surviving a drop. I love an MX style helmet and goggles for running logging and forest and ranch roads and such, and even for 2-lane black top because goggles keep the dirt out of my eyes. I sometimes modify the visor attachment hardware to 1/4 turns such as Dzus for extended highway legs. It only takes a couple seconds to deal with such fasteners. I cut a pattern from a shoe box to use to cut static window tint to slap inside the goggles for running without a visor on sunny days. Well worth the effort.

The best helmet is the one that fits, regardless of cost. Tight spots transfer energy without dissipating or distributing, increasing the likelihood of injury. Loose spots allow shift before slamming in to the head, increasing the likelihood of injury. Helmet fit should match head shape as well as size. Ask any EMT that's scraped up a few carcasses with ill fitting helmets.

I look for DOT, but avoid SNELL like the plague because to need the level of protection a SNELL helmet provides would pretty much equal two RX3s running WFO having a head-on. Generally, a not-SNELL DOT will be destroyed and run out of protection about when a SNELL starts to fail and starts to protect. I've seen lots of scratched up SNELL helmets not crushed on unconscious riders, and lots of not-SNELL helmets destroyed, yet the riders were able to jump up and pick up their own bikes.

Structural failure provides the third means engineered into a helmet to prevent energy from reaching the head--absorbing energy through crushing the helmet's structure. A structure that doesn't fail transmits energy directly to the head. Not good.

Please encourage your wife to seek a softer, non-SNELL helmet, especially if she is a slow-down-and-smell-the-road-kill rider. She will be much better protected by a cheaper, softer helmet doing the type of riding you described than by a high dollar competition rated SNELL model. Besides, for the same money she can have a variety of helmets in different colors and styles to fit her moods.

Good stuff, Thanks. My personal go-to helmet, (although I own several that are bigger name brand), is a Fly trekker in H-Viz yellow. Good fit and if they don't see me; they probably don't have good enough vision to drive in the first place. I've never had problems with it up to and exceeding the speed limit. It's a little louder than I like on the highway, but I listen to an MP3 playing softly, so it's not THAT loud.

[SpudRider]

... The best helmet is the one that fits, regardless of cost. Tight spots transfer energy without dissipating or distributing, increasing the likelihood of injury. Loose spots allow shift before slamming in to the head, increasing the likelihood of injury. Helmet fit should match head shape as well as size. Ask any EMT that's scraped up a few carcasses with ill fitting helmets.

I look for DOT, but avoid SNELL like the plague because to need the level of protection a SNELL helmet provides would pretty much equal two RX3s running WFO having a head-on. Generally, a not-SNELL DOT will be destroyed and run out of protection about when a SNELL starts to fail and starts to protect. I've seen lots of scratched up SNELL helmets not crushed on unconscious riders, and lots of not-SNELL helmets destroyed, yet the riders were able to jump up and pick up their own bikes.

Structural failure provides the third means engineered into a helmet to prevent energy from reaching the head--absorbing energy through crushing the helmet's structure. A structure that doesn't fail transmits energy directly to the head. Not good.

Please encourage your wife to seek a softer, non-SNELL helmet, especially if she is a slow-down-and-smell-the-road-kill rider. She will be much better protected by a cheaper, softer helmet doing the type of riding you described than by a high dollar competition rated SNELL model. Besides, for the same money she can have a variety of helmets in different colors and styles to fit her moods.

I couldn't agree more with you regarding helmet fit, selection, and DOT certification. :tup: Indeed, Snell helmets are not as safe as DOT helmets. I only purchase helmets with DOT certification. ;)

[dieselrider]

Any word on when the shipping will start?

Talked with Ryan today he said that they are shipping them out in the order that they were ordered, and if I understood him correctly they unloaded the bikes, and stacked them accordingly...so for example mine is set to be delivered to me, when I mentioned that theres a possibility that I could pick it up he told me they would have a hard time getting to it because it was way in the back, and for reference I payed for mine in full the first part of Jan. They are taking from the top of the pile right now for those that can pick them up in person.

I think those that payed in full already should have priority on shipping.

As it stands (again from what I understand) they will probably get to shipping sometime in the next two weeks.

Joe if you listening maybe you could satiate our quest to know, and correct any misunderstanding I may have so the rumor mill doesn't go into full speculation.

[SpudRider]

Good stuff, Thanks. My personal go-to helmet, (although I own several that are bigger name brand), is a Fly trekker in H-Viz yellow. Good fit and if they don't see me; they probably don't have good enough vision to drive in the first place. I've never had problems with it up to and exceeding the speed limit. It's a little louder than I like on the highway, but I listen to an MP3 playing softly, so it's not THAT loud.

I also own a white, Fly Trekker helmet. :) What earphones/earbuds are you using to listen to music inside your helmet?

[AZRider]

I'm currently camping in SoCal and was able to confirm with CSC this morning that I can pick up my bike on Thursday I am so impressed with the professionalism and enthusiasm of everyone at CSC that has helped with my purchase. :thanks:

[SpudRider]

Good for you, George. :tup:

[culcune]

If you ride it back and decide to take the long way through Yuma, let me know. Or are you planning on the Baja ride? Either way, if you are riding back through Yuma, let me know!

[Weldangrind]

Veteran, thanks for your service.

I appreciate your thoughtfulness towards your wife's surviving a drop. I love an MX style helmet and goggles for running logging and forest and ranch roads and such, and even for 2-lane black top because goggles keep the dirt out of my eyes. I sometimes modify the visor attachment hardware to 1/4 turns such as Dzus for extended highway legs. It only takes a couple seconds to deal with such fasteners. I cut a pattern from a shoe box to use to cut static window tint to slap inside the goggles for running without a visor on sunny days. Well worth the effort.

The best helmet is the one that fits, regardless of cost. Tight spots transfer energy without dissipating or distributing, increasing the likelihood of injury. Loose spots allow shift before slamming in to the head, increasing the likelihood of injury. Helmet fit should match head shape as well as size. Ask any EMT that's scraped up a few carcasses with ill fitting helmets.

I look for DOT, but avoid SNELL like the plague because to need the level of protection a SNELL helmet provides would pretty much equal two RX3s running WFO having a head-on. Generally, a not-SNELL DOT will be destroyed and run out of protection about when a SNELL starts to fail and starts to protect. I've seen lots of scratched up SNELL helmets not crushed on unconscious riders, and lots of not-SNELL helmets destroyed, yet the riders were able to jump up and pick up their own bikes.

Structural failure provides the third means engineered into a helmet to prevent energy from reaching the head--absorbing energy through crushing the helmet's structure. A structure that doesn't fail transmits energy directly to the head. Not good.

Please encourage your wife to seek a softer, non-SNELL helmet, especially if she is a slow-down-and-smell-the-road-kill rider. She will be much better protected by a cheaper, softer helmet doing the type of riding you described than by a high dollar competition rated SNELL model. Besides, for the same money she can have a variety of helmets in different colors and styles to fit her moods.

I learn so much on this forum.

[SpudRider]

Joe Berk posted a nice video at the CSC blog demonstrating four tips which will help with the assembly of your RX3 motorcycle. :tup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hght7wB-OYA

[SpudRider]

Here is another excellent video describing the proper procedure for preparing an AGM battery which is shipped with an external acid bottle. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xpg10yp4duo

[SpudRider]

I just posted a new thread entitled Zongshen RX3: New Bike Assembly Information. This thread contains all the information you need to know to assembly your Zongshen RX3 motorcycle from the shipping crate. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=182747#post182747

I have also added a link to this thread in the Zongshen RX3 Sticky thread, which is located at the top of this Dual Sport Forum. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

[oldqwerty]

Here is another excellent video describing the proper procedure for preparing an AGM battery which is shipped with an external acid bottle. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xpg10yp4duo

Cyclones come with AGM batteries?

[SpudRider]

Cyclones come with AGM batteries?

Yes, check out the CSC video just above in post #2827. :)

[NoVa Rider]

Talked with Ryan today he said that they are shipping them out in the order that they were ordered.

I think those that payed in full already should have priority on shipping.

As it stands (again from what I understand) they will probably get to shipping sometime in the next two weeks.

Joe if you listening maybe you could satiate our quest to know, and correct any misunderstanding I may have so the rumor mill doesn't go into full speculation.

I put my deposit down in December. Would have been happy to have paid in full, but I have been waiting for CSC to invoice me. Please CSC take my money!

[dieselrider]

I put my deposit down in December. Would have been happy to have paid in full, but I have been waiting for CSC to invoice me. Please CSC take my money!

NoVa Rider...just call them and ask if you can pay that's all I did. Than they sent me a receipt/invoice....I gave my deposit in Dec. too than a week after I found out they passed EPA I fully committed.

[Huck369]

Talked with them this morning, mine should be shipping, late this week, or early next week...
Having 2 shipped together for a friend and myself to save on shipping.

....I'm getting really excited!! :) :) :) :)

[jimjr21]

Talked with them this morning, mine should be shipping, late this week, or early next week...
Having 2 shipped together for a friend and myself to save on shipping.

....I'm getting really excited!! :) :) :) :)

Shipping 4 together here to save big time on shipping.

[oldqwerty]

AGM battery OEM is awesome. :thanks:

Won't have to worry about acid spills or fumes causing terminal corrosion or refilling the cells with water. Two of my TWs have the cheap Chinese AGMs from eBay. One is 4 years old, one a year old. The 4 year old battery has sat as long as 4 months without care and fired the bike right up. The newer battery saw a couple weeks use when it was first installed, then sat almost a year, then was moved to another TW whose OEM battery died while the owner was in Afghanistan, and fired his TW right up.

I don't have any friends so mine will have to wander home all by its lonesome.

[SpudRider]

AGM battery OEM is awesome. :thanks:

Won't have to worry about acid spills or fumes causing terminal corrosion or refilling the cells with water...

I agree. :) My Zongshen ZS200GY-2 arrived with a genuine, Yuasa wet battery. That was a very good battery, and it lasted 3-4 years. However, I much prefer having a sealed, low maintenance, AGM battery. :tup:

I'm going to slow charge my battery overnight to maximize its lifespan, as described in the video below. ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xpg10yp4duo

[Weldangrind]

I don't have any friends so mine will have to wander home all by its lonesome.

Plenty of virtual friends here to talk shop with. :D

[SpudRider]

Plenty of virtual friends here to talk shop with. :D

X2; we are glad you joined us. :)

[detours]

No objections to the stock RX3 battery, but if the terminals match, I'm going to move my Shorai lithium-iron battery (LFX18A1-BS12) from my V-strom 650 to the RX3. Should save over 5 lbs.

I'll set the RX3 stock battery aside and put the original battery back in the strom.

[Weldangrind]

A Shorai is a nice weight savings, but the two things I've read are don't let them discharge, and don't let them get cold.

I don't know these things first hand, but it's enough for me to pick a less expensive and more reliable AGM. My AGM batteries have been flawless.

[SpudRider]

I shed 9 pounds from my Honda XR650L when I performed my Shorai battery relocation. The battery replacement itself shaved 5 pounds from the bike, and removing the stock battery box shaved another 4 pounds from the motorcycle. :)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666195

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/XR650L%20Shorai%20Battery%20Relocation/OilSeparatorShoraiInspectionandheatshieldadjustmen t032.jpg

[SpudRider]

A Shorai is a nice weight savings, but the two things I've read are don't let them discharge, and don't let them get cold.

I don't know these things first hand, but it's enough for me to pick a less expensive and more reliable AGM. My AGM batteries have been flawless.

You don't want to short circuit a lithium battery; they discharge very rapidly, and can start a fire. However, you don't need to worry about the cold. The manufacturers actually recommend placing a lithium battery in the refrigerator for long term storage. ;)

http://shoraipower.com/faq

The lithium batteries also crank very hard during cold weather. I'm sure they crank harder than conventional batteries at the same temperature. I have never had any problems starting my Honda XR650L in temperatures slightly above freezing. :)

[oldqwerty]

Can't beat a Chinese AGM from eBay for all around value. Has anyone actually had a problem with one?

Not sure which technology Shorai is using, but as for home assembled ABC LiFePO4 battery pack in my café racer TW, well, when every gram matters, it's the way to go. It's small size allowed a custom air filter box for adequate flow and filtration to protect the engine. However, cold weather requires a specific allotment of thoughtfulness as the pack seems weak. Turn the key on so the lights come on, wait two minutes, then it fires right up. Something about the pack needing to warm up before it will deliver high amps. Keep in mind this engine is 276cc, 11.1:1 compression, and puts down 30.1 horsepower at the tire, so the load on the starter is significantly more than a stock TW. Yes, I expect it to explode at any moment, but so far, it's been a blast.

Avoid lithium polymer (LiPO) batteries as they spontaneously combust when damaged. The smoke and flames add a nice scale touch when I crash one of my RC airplanes.

[oldqwerty]

Plenty of virtual friends here to talk shop with. :D

X2; we are glad you joined us. :)

Why would I curse nice folks like you with my dysfunctions? No, I'll go away as soon as the new bike excitement wears off, which will be 3 seconds after its first ride, when I kick it off the stand and get it over with. After that, it'll be just me, a RX3, and a road less traveled.

[detours]

You don't want to short circuit a lithium battery; they discharge very rapidly, and can start a fire. However, you don't need to worry about the cold. The manufacturers actually recommend placing a lithium battery in the refrigerator for long term storage. ;)

http://shoraipower.com/faq

The lithium batteries also crank very hard during cold weather. I'm sure they crank harder than conventional batteries at the same temperature. I have never had any problems starting my Honda XR650L in temperatures slightly above freezing. :)

The Shorai has delivered a very strong, consistent start in my V-strom all winter, but I only rode a few times below 35 degrees ... mostly over 40.

Question: Will it matter that my strom's Shorai is 270 amps and most 250cc engine batteries are around 135 amps?

I've always understand more amps in a starter battery is better, but that's more than double!

[SpudRider]

Why would I curse nice folks like you with my dysfunctions? No, I'll go away as soon as the new bike excitement wears off, which will be 3 seconds after its first ride, when I kick it off the stand and get it over with. After that, it'll be just me, a RX3, and a road less traveled.

:lmao:

[SpudRider]

Can't beat a Chinese AGM from eBay for all around value. Has anyone actually had a problem with one?

Not sure which technology Shorai is using, but as for home assembled ABC LiFePO4 battery pack in my café racer TW, well, when every gram matters, it's the way to go. It's small size allowed a custom air filter box for adequate flow and filtration to protect the engine. However, cold weather requires a specific allotment of thoughtfulness as the pack seems weak. Turn the key on so the lights come on, wait two minutes, then it fires right up. Something about the pack needing to warm up before it will deliver high amps. Keep in mind this engine is 276cc, 11.1:1 compression, and puts down 30.1 horsepower at the tire, so the load on the starter is significantly more than a stock TW. Yes, I expect it to explode at any moment, but so far, it's been a blast.

Avoid lithium polymer (LiPO) batteries as they spontaneously combust when damaged. The smoke and flames add a nice scale touch when I crash one of my RC airplanes.

I agree with you and Weld. :) I installed a Shorai battery in my Honda XR650L because it removed 9 pounds of highly placed weight on the motorcycle, slimmed the rear of the bike, greatly facilitated replacing the left side cover, et cetera. However, if weight and other factors are not a big issue, I really prefer AGM batteries. :tup: That's why I only installed a Shorai battery in my XR650L. ;)

Shorai batteries are manufactered from 4 lithium pouches connected in series, instead of ABC cylindrical cells. Therefore, you can easily increase the cranking power of these batteries by simply increasing the size of the individual pouches. ;) The Shorai battery easily cranks the 4-inch piston in my XR650L, even when cold. :tup:

Lithium motorcycle batteries are LiFePO4 (lithium-iron-phosphate) batteries. This technology is much less volatile than the LiPo (lithium polymer) batteries used in radio control vehicles. The LiPo batteries are lithium-cobalt batteries, which are very volatile, and quite unsuitable for motorcycle applications. :ohno:

[SpudRider]

The Shorai has delivered a very strong, consistent start in my V-strom all winter, but I only rode a few times below 35 degrees ... mostly over 40.

Question: Will it matter that my strom's Shorai is 270 amps and most 250cc engine batteries are around 135 amps?

I've always understand more amps in a starter battery is better, but that's more than double!

You are correct; more cranking power is a good thing. :) Your Shorai battery will work very well with your Zongshen RX3. :tup:

[katflap]

Got a 1000 miles in the saddle , time to check the tappets.

This afternoon I started to prepare, I had ran the fuel tank down to 1 bar on the gauge. This turned out to be ok as there was only a little fuel spillage and with the tank placed vertically it stopped altogether.

Did a quick check of the tappets, all on about 0.04mm. Tomorrow I'm going to set them at 0.06mm which should be fun as it's a pretty tight working space. :hmm:

Here are 2 pics showing the fuel tank connections. ;)

Green arrow - fuel level gauge
Yellow arrow - rain water drain pipe ( takes water from around filler cap)
White arrow - spare connector
Red arrow - fuel pump connector
Purple arrow - fuel line- fuel filter (white piece is just me blanking the end)

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/valve%20adj%201_zpswubmbwj1.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/valve%20adjust%202_zpslnzkwmod.jpg

[SpudRider]

As always, thank you for posting the superb information and excellent photographs, Kat. :tup:

Did you release much pressure when you unhooked the fuel filter from the fuel pump? I assume any leaking fuel is the result of the pressurized fuel line, and the leaking will stop after the pressure is vented. If so, you can tilt the fuel tank more horizontally, and no more fuel will leak from the hose.

According to the CSC tutorial, you can get more working space to adjust the valves by loosening the radiator mounts. You don't need to drain the coolant, or disconnect any of the hoses. ;)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=14703

Are the radiators, the coolant hoses, or both, blocking access to the exhaust valve tappets? Do you plan to work from above, or from the front, left side of the bike to adjust the exhaust valves?

[SpudRider]

Katflap,

Are you filling the fuel tank with regular octane, or high octane fuel?

[SpudRider]

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector. :shrug:

[detours]

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector. :shrug:

The same question came up yesterday on Facebook in the Cyclone RX-3 Zongshen Owners Group. The only response was maybe it's for an optional projector lamp.

[SpudRider]

The same question came up yesterday on Facebook in the Cyclone RX-3 Zongshen Owners Group. The only response was maybe it's for an optional projector lamp.

Thank you. :) Can you please provide a link for that Facebook page?

[NoVa Rider]

We all know that the RX-3 uses screw and lock-nut adjusters to set valve clearance. This is one of the features that makes the bike owner-serviceable, since you don't need a set of shims and you don't need to demount the cam shaft to adjust valve clearance.

Many of you are already well familiar with adjusting valves. But I thought I would share a few tricks I picked up adjusting valves on hundreds of air-cooled VWs, along with many motorcycles, over the years. If you know how to do it, no need to read further.

I have not yet received my RX-3, so these are general instructions. CSC's tutorial covers the specifics of removing body work, loosening the radiator mounts, removing the valve cover, and setting the engine to the correct position.

Once you have the valve cover off and are ready to measure, its always helpful to make sure the adjusters have some free play in them. You should be able to hold on to the adjuster or even just put you finger on it and wiggle it a bit. If you can't feel any freeplay, you may have the motor in the wrong position. If the motor is in the correct position, you should be able to wiggle all the adjusters.

Next is inserting the feeler gauge. Depends on how much room you have. You may have difficulty simply pushing the gauge between the adjuster and the valve stem; but often you can insert the blade of the gauge into the space beside the rocker, and then draw the blade back while gently pushing it into the gap. We'll see how much room we really have in the RX-3 to see if further tricks may be necessary.

But if you can't get the blade into the gap no matter what you do, the adjustment may be too tight. Try a thinner gauge just to be sure you are doing it correctly, and to measure what the adjuster is actually set at, just for grins.

So you have the correct gauge in place. If adjusted correctly, you should feel a drag while drawing it straight backwards from the gap. The gauge may tend to buckle if you try to push it further in, but if you can draw it back without having difficulty holding onto the gauge, you are OK. If you feel no drag, and you're sure the blade is in the gap, the setting is too loose and you need to adjust.

So if you have followed me this far, here are the real secrets. You would think that the adjustment is done by loosening the lock nut, perhaps loosening the adjustment screw a bit to get the guage in place, then turning the adjustment screw until you have the correct drag on the gauge, and retightening the lock nut. Well, not so fast.

Two things can happen when you try to tighten the lock nut. The first is that the nut can "drag" the adjuster with it as you tighten it, so you end up with a setting that's too tight. The second thing is a bit more subtle. When you tighten the lock nut, presuming the adjuster doesn't "drag" with the nut, the nut actually draws the adjuster up slightly against the threads as its tightened. This actually increases the gap a bit.

The solution? First, set the adjuster so its a bit tighter that you would like. So that you can just barely pull the gauge back. Then, put your wrench on the lock nut, and set your screwdriver in the adjuster slot. As you tighten the lock nut, apply slight "back pressure" on the adjuster. Not enough to turn the adjuster, just enough to keep it from being "dragged" by the lock nut. Then, since you started with setting a bit tighter that you wanted, as you tighten the nut, you should find the adjustment loosens just a bit.

At this point, DO NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE LOCK NUT. Particularly on a small nut/adjuster arrangement like the RX-3, it does not take a lot of torque to secure the lock nut. Overtorquing the nut will just distort the adjuster threads and make future adjustments more difficult if not impossible.

Forgive me for droning on. Perhaps this will be of help to some new RX-3 owners.

[CSCDude]

We all know that the RX-3 uses screw and lock-nut adjusters to set valve clearance. This is one of the features that makes the bike owner-serviceable, since you don't need a set of shims and you don't need to demount the cam shaft to adjust valve clearance.

Many of you are already well familiar with adjusting valves. But I thought I would share a few tricks I picked up adjusting valves on hundreds of air-cooled VWs, along with many motorcycles, over the years. If you know how to do it, no need to read further.

I have not yet received my RX-3, so these are general instructions. CSC's tutorial covers the specifics of removing body work, loosening the radiator mounts, removing the valve cover, and setting the engine to the correct position.

Once you have the valve cover off and are ready to measure, its always helpful to make sure the adjusters have some free play in them. You should be able to hold on to the adjuster or even just put you finger on it and wiggle it a bit. If you can't feel any freeplay, you may have the motor in the wrong position. If the motor is in the correct position, you should be able to wiggle all the adjusters.

Next is inserting the feeler gauge. Depends on how much room you have. You may have difficulty simply pushing the gauge between the adjuster and the valve stem; but often you can insert the blade of the gauge into the space beside the rocker, and then draw the blade back while gently pushing it into the gap. We'll see how much room we really have in the RX-3 to see if further tricks may be necessary.

But if you can't get the blade into the gap no matter what you do, the adjustment may be too tight. Try a thinner gauge just to be sure you are doing it correctly, and to measure what the adjuster is actually set at, just for grins.

So you have the correct gauge in place. If adjusted correctly, you should feel a drag while drawing it straight backwards from the gap. The gauge may tend to buckle if you try to push it further in, but if you can draw it back without having difficulty holding onto the gauge, you are OK. If you feel no drag, and you're sure the blade is in the gap, the setting is too loose and you need to adjust.

So if you have followed me this far, here are the real secrets. You would think that the adjustment is done by loosening the lock nut, perhaps loosening the adjustment screw a bit to get the guage in place, then turning the adjustment screw until you have the correct drag on the gauge, and retightening the lock nut. Well, not so fast.

Two things can happen when you try to tighten the lock nut. The first is that the nut can "drag" the adjuster with it as you tighten it, so you end up with a setting that's too tight. The second thing is a bit more subtle. When you tighten the lock nut, presuming the adjuster doesn't "drag" with the nut, the nut actually draws the adjuster up slightly against the threads as its tightened. This actually increases the gap a bit.

The solution? First, set the adjuster so its a bit tighter that you would like. So that you can just barely pull the gauge back. Then, put your wrench on the lock nut, and set your screwdriver in the adjuster slot. As you tighten the lock nut, apply slight "back pressure" on the adjuster. Not enough to turn the adjuster, just enough to keep it from being "dragged" by the lock nut. Then, since you started with setting a bit tighter that you wanted, as you tighten the nut, you should find the adjustment loosens just a bit.

At this point, DO NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN THE LOCK NUT. Particularly on a small nut/adjuster arrangement like the RX-3, it does not take a lot of torque to secure the lock nut. Overtorquing the nut will just distort the adjuster threads and make future adjustments more difficult if not impossible.

Forgive me for droning on. Perhaps this will be of help to some new RX-3 owners.

That was the best explanation I've ever read on the nuances of getting a valve adjustment right. Well done.

[G19Tony]

0330 departure in the truck. I like a nice road trip once in a while. I also like the dawn patrol. If I can get past the construction on 15 with no problem, I should hit CSC around 0730. In time to grab a quick McMuffin before they open. I called today, all the paperwork is ready!

I found out the other day that the manual is on CD. That didn't occur to me. :doh: I thought it would be printed. Does anyone know if it will work on IOS? The manual for my BMW is on CD. It doesn't work on IOS. >:

Anyway. I'm jazzed to make the run and excited to get the bike! :clap:

[SpudRider]

That was the best explanation I've ever read on the nuances of getting a valve adjustment right. Well done.

I agree; you did an excellent job. :tup:

I would only add one point. After you are done adjusting all the valves, turn the engine several revolutions, and verify the valve lash is correct. Once again, you will know you are at the correct position of top-dead-center on the compression stroke if you can feel some wiggle in all the valve tappets. ;)

[SpudRider]

0330 departure in the truck. I like a nice road trip once in a while. I also like the dawn patrol. If I can get past the construction on 15 with no problem, I should hit CSC around 0730. In time to grab a quick McMuffin before they open. I called today, all the paperwork is ready!

I found out the other day that the manual is on CD. That didn't occur to me. :doh: I thought it would be printed. Does anyone know if it will work on IOS? The manual for my BMW is on CD. It doesn't work on IOS. >:

Anyway. I'm jazzed to make the run and excited to get the bike! :clap:

Good for you, Tony. :tup: If you have time, please take some photographs of the CSC building, your loaded trailer, et cetera. :) We love photos. ;)

[oldqwerty]

That was the best explanation I've ever read on the nuances of getting a valve adjustment right. Well done.

Sometimes the issue is the bend in the leaf. I have a set of feeler gauges that have prebent leafs riveted to thicker handles that will enter the access hole between the adjustment screws and not need to be bent to clear the head. I wonder if these are still available anywhere. Try to bend the leaves of most feeler gauges and they break. As I recall, they weren't cheap but they sure made screw adjusters easy to do.

[Weldangrind]

0330 departure in the truck. I like a nice road trip once in a while. I also like the dawn patrol. If I can get past the construction on 15 with no problem, I should hit CSC around 0730. In time to grab a quick McMuffin before they open. I called today, all the paperwork is ready!

I found out the other day that the manual is on CD. That didn't occur to me. :doh: I thought it would be printed. Does anyone know if it will work on IOS? The manual for my BMW is on CD. It doesn't work on IOS. >:

Anyway. I'm jazzed to make the run and excited to get the bike! :clap:

If it doesn't work on IOS, I bet you could give it to a print shop and ask them to make a hard copy for you.

[SpudRider]

Sometimes the issue is the bend in the leaf. I have a set of feeler gauges that have prebent leafs riveted to thicker handles that will enter the access hole between the adjustment screws and not need to be bent to clear the head. I wonder if these are still available anywhere. Try to bend the leaves of most feeler gauges and they break. As I recall, they weren't cheap but they sure made screw adjusters easy to do.

The valve lash specifications for the RX3 are very small.

0.04 mm = 0.00157 inch
0.06 mm = 0.00236 inch

Feeler gauges this size are so flexible I don't think a slight curve in the feeler gauge will adversely affect the measurement.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/DSC0072-650.jpg

However, if one desires, feeler gauges this thin are also very easy to bend without breaking. :)

The 32-piece, feeler gauge set sold at Harbor Freight does go as small as 0.04 mm. :tup:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html

[katflap]

Thanks to Joe/CSC and No Va Rider for the excellent tutorial and tips.

The job is now done :tup:

I went with the idea of setting it at 0.06mm (to a good fit), then after tightening I tried 0.04mm (this was a loose fit)
and then tried 0.08mm , this I couldn't get in the gap at all. So it certainly won't be too
tight and at worst it will be with about 0.07mm of slack. :D

The end result - sounds a little more "tappety" than before but I'm good with that.

The bike rides fine, no noticeable difference.

[katflap]

Did you release much pressure when you unhooked the fuel filter from the fuel pump? I assume any leaking fuel is the result of the pressurized fuel line, and the leaking will stop after the pressure is vented. If so, you can tilt the fuel tank more horizontally, and no more fuel will leak from the hose.

According to the CSC tutorial, you can get more working space to adjust the valves by loosening the radiator mounts. You don't need to drain the coolant, or disconnect any of the hoses. ;)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=14703

Are the radiators, the coolant hoses, or both, blocking access to the exhaust valve tappets? Do you plan to work from above, or from the front, left side of the bike to adjust the exhaust valves?

I didn't notice any pressure in the fuel line but the bike had been switch off for some time before I released the fuel line joint. It was more of a dribble. When I put the tank back on the bike some fuel started to flow again ;)

Here's a pic of me at the exhaust valves. I did them from this position.

Yellow arrow - radiator pushed out of the way as far as poss.
Red arrow - is my lamp for a bit of extra light

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/exhaust%20valves_zpsk67e4gnq.jpg

[katflap]

Katflap,

Are you filling the fuel tank with regular octane, or high octane fuel?

I started with using RON 98 octane but recently I have just used RON 95

Can't say that I noticed any real difference :)

[katflap]

I wonder regarding the purpose of the spare electrical connector. :shrug:
I noticed on the wiring diagram a "Dump Switch" indicated. I wonder if this is a kill switch for when the bike goes over, as is fitted on other bikes.

My Rx3 hasn't got this switch fitted so could explain the spare connector.

Decided to remove the stickers front and back . Came off quite easily and wasn't to bad for left over gue !!
:tup:


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/no%20stickers_zpsifxbnb5i.jpg

[humanbeing]

I started with using RON 98 ...
Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA. Most available from there is RON93. Some clever guy just mixing 8-12% dimethoxymethane to white gas ...
~17:00
KTUjL8yrFAE

[Weldangrind]

Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA. Most available from there is RON93. Some clever guy just mixing 8-12% dimethoxymethane to white gas ...

Meaning pure gasoline without additives, or naphtha?

[Weldangrind]

I noticed on the wiring diagram a "Dump Switch" indicated. I wonder if this is a kill switch for when the bike goes over, as is fitted on other bikes.

My Rx3 hasn't got this switch fitted so could explain the spare connector.

Decided to remove the stickers front and back . Came off quite easily and wasn't to bad for left over gue !!
:tup:


http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/no%20stickers_zpsifxbnb5i.jpg

Katflap, that looks really good without the decals.

[jimjr21]

I have this exact feeler gauge set. It is a good deal.

there are nicer sets available but this one will do the job and the price can not be beat.

The valve lash specifications for the RX3 are very small.

0.04 mm = 0.00157 inch
0.06 mm = 0.00236 inch

Feeler gauges this size are so flexible I don't think a slight curve in the feeler gauge will adversely affect the measurement.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/DSC0072-650.jpg

However, if one desires, feeler gauges this thin are also very easy to bend without breaking. :)

The 32-piece, feeler gauge set sold at Harbor Freight does go as small as 0.04 mm. :tup:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html

[jimjr21]

0330 departure in the truck. I like a nice road trip once in a while. I also like the dawn patrol. If I can get past the construction on 15 with no problem, I should hit CSC around 0730. In time to grab a quick McMuffin before they open. I called today, all the paperwork is ready!

I found out the other day that the manual is on CD. That didn't occur to me. :doh: I thought it would be printed. Does anyone know if it will work on IOS? The manual for my BMW is on CD. It doesn't work on IOS. >:

Anyway. I'm jazzed to make the run and excited to get the bike! :clap:

Just sent the .pdf Owner Manual to my iPhone. Worked perfectly.

[SpudRider]

I have this exact feeler gauge set. It is a good deal.

there are nicer sets available but this one will do the job and the price can not be beat.

I agree; I use the Harbor Freight, feeler gauge set for all my motorcycles. :) With a price of $3.99, it represents an excellent value. :tup:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html?hftref=cj

[Miss America]

I'm trying to find US insurance for my RX3, but the only company that seems to insure the bike is Progressive and they are only offering liability.

What have you all found as far as US insurance goes as I'm frustrated and perplexed?

[SpudRider]

I'm trying to find US insurance for my RX3, but the only company that seems to insure the bike is Progressive and they are only offering liability.

What have you all found as far as US insurance goes as I'm frustrated and perplexed?

I easily insured my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 motorcycle with State Farm Insurance. I'm sure I won't have any difficulty insuring my Zongshen RX3 with them, either. The CSC Cyclone/Zongshen RX3 is listed in both the NADA Guide and the Kelly Blue Book for my area. :)

[Huck369]

I just put insurance on mine thru Dairyland Insurance (Sub'd thru Kentucky Farm Bureau Insurance) .....

[SpudRider]

I noticed on the wiring diagram a "Dump Switch" indicated. I wonder if this is a kill switch for when the bike goes over, as is fitted on other bikes.

My Rx3 hasn't got this switch fitted so could explain the spare connector.

Decided to remove the stickers front and back . Came off quite easily and wasn't to bad for left over gue !!
:tup:



Thanks for the information, Kat. :) Your bike looks great with the stickers removed. :tup: How did you remove the excess glue?

[SpudRider]

Any grade from western country is better than in CHiNA...

Thanks for posting that interesting information, Humanbeing. :) Based upon all the information I have received, I am going to run regular octane fuel in my Zongshen RX3. :)

[Miss America]

I just put insurance on mine thru Dairyland Insurance (Sub'd thru Kentucky Farm Bureau Insurance) .....

Interesting... my sub told me Dairyland (which is what I currently use on my other bikes) wouldn't insure the RX3 as it wasn't manufactured in the US???

[katflap]

Thanks for the information, Kat. :) Your bike looks great with the stickers removed. :tup: How did you remove the excess glue?

I had a bottle of stuff that removes sticky label glue but the label has come off the bottle :doh: i cant remember now what it was called .Fortunately there was very little glue left, they just peeled right off.

Forgot to mention in my earlier post (# 2865) that when doing the exhaust valves i separated the feeler gauge blades and held them with some thin nosed pliers. This helped quite a bit :tup:

[SpudRider]

I had a bottle of stuff that removes sticky label glue but the label has come off the bottle :doh: i cant remember now what it was called .Fortunately there was very little glue left, they just peeled right off.

Forgot to mention in my earlier post (# 2865) that when doing the exhaust valves i separated the feeler gauge blades and held them with some thin nosed pliers. This helped quite a bit :tup:

Thank you. :) Did you need to warm the stickers with a heat gun, or did they peel off easily without additional 'encouragement?' ;)

[katflap]

Thank you. :) Did you need to warm the stickers with a heat gun, or did they peel off easily without additional 'encouragement?' ;)

No heat gun required , but it was a warm sunny day which I'm sure helped :)

[jimjr21]

I'm trying to find US insurance for my RX3, but the only company that seems to insure the bike is Progressive and they are only offering liability.

What have you all found as far as US insurance goes as I'm frustrated and perplexed?



Took a couple of minutes to add my RX-3 to my American Family policy.

[Huck369]

Interesting... my sub told me Dairyland (which is what I currently use on my other bikes) wouldn't insure the RX3 as it wasn't manufactured in the US???

Tell them neither was your Yamaha's... :)

I had no trouble at all, it went right thru......

[oldqwerty]

Interesting... my sub told me Dairyland (which is what I currently use on my other bikes) wouldn't insure the RX3 as it wasn't manufactured in the US???

:hmm: Don't tell your insurance company but I don't think your other bikes were manufactured in the U. S. either. :crazy:

EDIT: Beat me to it, Huck. :)

[SpudRider]

Sara at CSC sent me a tracking number. My fastest, orange RX3 has shipped from Azusa and is heading for Idaho. :tup: I will probably be assembling, and riding the bike on either Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week. Needless to say, I will certainly post photographs and my initial impressions of the motorcycle. :)

Until then, here are some photos I took yesterday. We received some snow the day before. ;) My Zongshen ZS200GY-2 is rapidly approaching 69,000 miles on the odometer; it's a great little motorcycle. I'm sure it's successor, the RX3 will be another excellent bike. :tup:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1770_zpsbmphpyog.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1770_zpsbmphpyog.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1771_zpshviy2nby.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1771_zpshviy2nby.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1772_zpsejyo7nha.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1772_zpsejyo7nha.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1773_zpsvjjlbkjl.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1773_zpsvjjlbkjl.jpg.html)

You need tires with an aggressive tread if you wish to ride off road in Idaho. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1774_zpsvfzjal6b.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zong%202012%20Rides/IMG_1774_zpsvfzjal6b.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

No heat gun required , but it was a warm sunny day which I'm sure helped :)

:tup:

[SpudRider]

Tell them neither was your Yamaha's... :)

I had no trouble at all, it went right thru......

:hmm: Don't tell your insurance company but I don't think your other bikes were manufactured in the U. S. either. :crazy:

EDIT: Beat me to it, Huck. :)

Indeed, that was an unbelievable response from an insurance company. :crazy:

[katflap]

Katflap, that looks really good without the decals.

Yeah, I was not sure about removing them but now I have I'm glad I did.

If anyone lives where there's shed loads of sun I would suggest, if they're going to remove them, to do it pretty quickly .Just in case there are paint fade issues.

:)

[SpudRider]

I agree; the safety decal on the fuel tank should be removed immediately. :) However, the other decals are probably located on ABS plastic, which will need to be repainted in a year or two. Therefore, one could choose to remove the decals that time, just before he repainted the parts.

P.S. I like your new avatar, Kat. :tup:

[G19Tony]

I left at 0400 and hit my TOT within 5 minutes. Not bad considering the traffic on the 210. :wtf: I don't think I could do that every day.

RX-3 transport device, 94 Ford F-150.


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0242.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0242.jpg.html)

Target for today.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0241.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0241.jpg.html)

I would have been in and out, but I decided to get some lights. Rich installed them for me.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0250.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0250.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0246.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0246.jpg.html)

Loaded and ready to depart.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0251.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0251.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0252.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0252.jpg.html)

While I was waiting, I had the opportunity to meet and talk to Steve, Ryan, Rich, Lupe and Sarah. Nice people, every one. Steve took a couple photos of me and the bike. I may make the cut on the blog! :hi:

The drive back was fine, just the usual hyperagressive Californians heading to Vegas for the weekend. :grr: I went straight to the DMV and got the VIN check out of the way. We have to do that when we buy a bike from out of state. I'll go back in the morning and get it registered and go for a ride after.

Thanks to everyone at CSC for a pleasant experience. :tup:

[oldqwerty]

I should have ordered a blue one. :ohno:

[humanbeing]

Meaning pure gasoline without additives, or naphtha?
Different blender , different formula
RON89 + 1?% shit (naphtha + MTBE + aromatic hydrocarbons)
MTBE + aromatic hydrocarbons + naphtha + C5 Fraction... ~19:30
Secret additive ~22:00

[roots]

I'm trying to find US insurance for my RX3, but the only company that seems to insure the bike is Progressive and they are only offering liability.

What have you all found as far as US insurance goes as I'm frustrated and perplexed?

Well, just tried and failed to get insurance through Progressive via USAA. (USAA doesn't directly insure motorcycles in CA). The guy spent a good deal of time looking up info, but ultimately it is not in their system so he can't do it until it is. He also had "no way" to inform me when they could.

I guess I'll try Farmers and Geico tomorrow :tdown:

I will be picking up my bike tomorrow morning!!! Yipeeee

Anyone else going tomorrow?

[Weldangrind]

Tony, your truck looks mint.

[Weldangrind]

Sara at CSC sent me a tracking number. My fastest, orange RX3 has shipped from Azusa and is heading for Idaho. :tup: I will probably be assembling, and riding the bike on either Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week. Needless to say, I will certainly post photographs and my initial impressions of the motorcycle. :)

Until then, here are some photos I took yesterday. We received some snow the day before. ;) My Zongshen ZS200GY-2 is rapidly approaching 69,000 miles on the odometer; it's a great little motorcycle. I'm sure it's successor, the RX3 will be another excellent bike. :tup:

Successor???!!!!

[G19Tony]

Well, just tried and failed to get insurance through Progressive via USAA. (USAA doesn't directly insure motorcycles in CA). The guy spent a good deal of time looking up info, but ultimately it is not in their system so he can't do it until it is. He also had "no way" to inform me when they could.

I guess I'll try Farmers and Geico tomorrow :tdown:

I will be picking up my bike tomorrow morning!!! Yipeeee

Anyone else going tomorrow?

You just got a lazy writer. I had no problem with Progressive. I'm also a USAA member. It's going to run me $364 a year, with the same coverages that are on my BMW and Grom, including $3000 farkle replacement. Keep after them.

[G19Tony]

Tony, your truck looks mint.

Thanks! It's low utilization, kept under the carport. ;)

[G19Tony]

I cleaned up the bike and took some quick ham shots. It needs the LED headlight.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0255.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0255.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0259.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0259.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0258.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0258.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0266.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0266.jpg.html)

[Adjuster]

Very nice.


/

[SpudRider]

Tony,

The RX3 fit in the back of your truck nicely; you even got the tailgate up. :tup: The blue bike looks very nice. :)

The red and white bikes look nice, also. ;) If orange weren't the fastest color, I would have had a very hard time reaching a decision regarding color.

:hehe:

[SpudRider]

Successor???!!!!

I was merely referring to the 'successor' as the latest model manufactured by Zongshen. ;)

[SpudRider]

I cleaned up the bike and took some quick ham shots. It needs the LED headlight.

Adios to the 'speed' decal and warning sticker. ;) You bike looks very good, Tony. :tup:

[G19Tony]

Tony,

The RX3 fit in the back of your truck nicely; you even got the tailgate up. :tup: The blue bike looks very nice. :)

The red and white bikes look nice, also. ;) If orange weren't the fastest color, I would have had a very hard time reaching a decision regarding color.

:hehe:

With the SPEEDstickers off, it will be even faster! :lmao:

[Huck369]

With the SPEEDstickers off, it will be even faster! :lmao:

Weight savings............. Hehe :)

[SpudRider]

With the SPEEDstickers off, it will be even faster! :lmao:

Weight savings............. Hehe :)

Every ounce counts. :) Ounces add up to pounds. ;)

:hehe:

[AZRider]

I was able to pick up my RX-3 on Thursday and it was duly recorded on the CSC blog. I spent part of today putting it together and removing some of the stickers. With care, they peeled off mostly in one piece and I didn't need any Goo-Gone for residual glue. I'm in two minds whether to put the bags and guards on and will review that decision after break-in. I believe that the weight savings will make a considerable difference to the bike's handling. I did remove the passenger pegs and reinserted the screws to add a little bling to a dark spot.

I've started the break-in process and will change the oil several times before the 1,500 mile point, where I will start with synthetic oil. Initial impressions confirm what others have said, that it is a well built and well finished bike. I would suggest that the new owner inspects and torques every nut and bolt, just to be sure.

[detours]

Thank you. :) Can you please provide a link for that Facebook page?

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

[SpudRider]

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

Thank you. :)

[SpudRider]

I was able to pick up my RX-3 on Thursday and it was duly recorded on the CSC blog. I spent part of today putting it together and removing some of the stickers. With care, they peeled off mostly in one piece and I didn't need any Goo-Gone for residual glue. I'm in two minds whether to put the bags and guards on and will review that decision after break-in. I believe that the weight savings will make a considerable difference to the bike's handling. I did remove the passenger pegs and reinserted the screws to add a little bling to a dark spot.

I've started the break-in process and will change the oil several times before the 1,500 mile point, where I will start with synthetic oil. Initial impressions confirm what others have said, that it is a well built and well finished bike. I would suggest that the new owner inspects and torques every nut and bolt, just to be sure.

Do you have access to a large scale? I think it would be great if someone would weigh the engine guards, luggage, and luggage supports to determine an accurate total weight for those items. :)

[jezzrite]

Hi guys.

Are the total weights of the Tourfella luggage set (top and side cases, with mountings) comparable to Givi Trekker Outback (Top 42L, side 37L, with mountings)?

Scouring now for some aluminium hard luggage options. Givi is one of the cheaper options.

[jimjr21]

You just got a lazy writer. I had no problem with Progressive. I'm also a USAA member. It's going to run me $364 a year, with the same coverages that are on my BMW and Grom, including $3000 farkle replacement. Keep after them.

My full year full coverage is about $65 a year. Same coverage I have on all my bikes. Took about 5 minutes to get coverage with cards through my American Family agent.

For reference my Ducati runs $135/ year.

[jimjr21]

Do you have access to a large scale? I think it would be great if someone would weigh the engine guards, luggage, and luggage supports to determine an accurate total weight for those items. :)

Full wet weight of bare motorcycle 363lbs.

USA equipped crash bars, mounts, and luggage 45lbs

CSC made leave on center stand 4.5lbs

6 LED lights pair 4.0lbs

[G19Tony]

My full year full coverage is about $65 a year. Same coverage I have on all my bikes. Took about 5 minutes to get coverage with cards through my American Family agent.

For reference my Ducati runs $135/ year.

Hmmmm. I should look into American Family. Thanks! :)

[katoranger]

Tony, your truck looks mint.


I was thinking the same thing. You would think it just rolled off the lot.

[fishman10]

Dang it. I did not receive a tracking number

[dieselrider]

that's a bummer...doesn't look like they come with SS braided brake lines anymore. :tdown: That might account for the so, so brakes people have reported. I know on my KLR the SS lines made a massive difference. I'll report more when my bike comes in on Monday.

[Weldangrind]

You just got a lazy writer. I had no problem with Progressive. I'm also a USAA member. It's going to run me $364 a year, with the same coverages that are on my BMW and Grom, including $3000 farkle replacement. Keep after them.

Good Heavens! I'll pay nearly that for three months where I live!

[Weldangrind]

I was merely referring to the 'successor' as the latest model manufactured by Zongshen. ;)

To some, that's a synonym for replacement. You had my blood pressure up.

:hehe:

[Weldangrind]

Here's the link to the group. I can't figure out how to link to a specific post, but it's from 4/15
https://www.facebook.com/groups/412630818887109/

This might be enough reason to actually join Facebook.

That, and my favourite local craft brewery. :D

[Weldangrind]

I cleaned up the bike and took some quick ham shots. It needs the LED headlight.

Beautiful machine, and lovely property. I don't see a weed or a speck of dirt anywhere.

[CSCDude]

While I was waiting, I had the opportunity to meet and talk to Steve, Ryan, Rich, Lupe and Sarah. Nice people, every one. Steve took a couple photos of me and the bike. I may make the cut on the blog! :hi:

The drive back was fine, just the usual hyperagressive Californians heading to Vegas for the weekend. :grr: I went straight to the DMV and got the VIN check out of the way. We have to do that when we buy a bike from out of state. I'll go back in the morning and get it registered and go for a ride after.

Thanks to everyone at CSC for a pleasant experience. :tup:

Tony (and everyone else):

Just flying back from Canada this morning. Send your photos to me (jberk@cscmotorcycles.com) and I can pretty much guarantee that they'll make the cut for the blog.

[G19Tony]

Beautiful machine, and lovely property. I don't see a weed or a speck of dirt anywhere.

Thank you. We just finished a couple of days of 50mph winds. There is dirt everywhere! :cry: As for weeds. There is not much yard left. It's all concrete, much to the consternation of my girlfriend. Fortunately, I did all this before we met, so she can't give me crap about it. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Full wet weight of bare motorcycle 363lbs.

USA equipped crash bars, mounts, and luggage 45lbs

CSC made leave on center stand 4.5lbs

6 LED lights pair 4.0lbs

Thank you posting the information, Jim. I appreciate very much your contributions to these forums. :)

Please know I am not trying to be impolite, but I must ask. Do you have these items in your possession, and have you actually weighed them, or are you quoting another source?

[SpudRider]

To some, that's a synonym for replacement. You had my blood pressure up.

:hehe:

:hehe:

I can assure you, I will be keeping my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. It's a great little motorcycle, and I have a mileage record to pursue. ;) The Zong's odometer is quickly closing in on 69,000 miles. :tup:

In regards to my use of the term 'successor,' please check my very first post in this thread. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=163543&postcount=1

[SpudRider]

...As for weeds. There is not much yard left. It's all concrete, much to the consternation of my girlfriend. Fortunately, I did all this before we met, so she can't give me crap about it. :tup:

That's the way to do it, Tony. :tup: Acquire all your possessions and fix your home exactly as you like before SWMBO arrives. :)

:hehe:

[SpudRider]

Tony (and everyone else):

Just flying back from Canada this morning. Send your photos to me (jberk@cscmotorcycles.com) and I can pretty much guarantee that they'll make the cut for the blog.

Joe,

I assume you traveled north to facilitate the arrival of the RX3 in Canada. Am I correct? If so, how are matters progressing? ;)

[SpudRider]

that's a bummer...doesn't look like they come with SS braided brake lines anymore. :tdown: That might account for the so, so brakes people have reported. I know on my KLR the SS lines made a massive difference. I'll report more when my bike comes in on Monday.

My bike also arrives on Monday, but I won't be able to pick it up at the shipping dock until either Tuesday or Wednesday. If true, it's too bad about the brake lines. In all fairness, the Chinese probably changed the brake lines without any input from CSC. ;) However, we did receive a lot of really nice design improvements, and extra goodies with these motorcycles. :)

I haven't seen the SS brake lines at Taobao. I assume Motion Pro, Galfer, or some other company will make custom, SS brake lines. Perhaps CSC will also be offering the SS brake lines for sale?

[oldqwerty]

Dang it. I did not receive a tracking number

I haven't heard a word since my bank showed the deposit leaving my bank account 17 days ago. I guess I'm at the bottom of the stack.

[jimjr21]

that's a bummer...doesn't look like they come with SS braided brake lines anymore. :tdown: That might account for the so, so brakes people have reported. I know on my KLR the SS lines made a massive difference. I'll report more when my bike comes in on Monday.

Factory line is black rubber coated with braided steel liner and teflon plastic inner sleeve.
The braid is more coarse than the Russell Stainless Braided line that I had to replace it with on the rear.
Brake pedal feel was improved.
I am going to swap the front and test it as well. But need these massive thunderstorms to leave the area first as can not threshold brake in the rain.

[jimjr21]

Thank you posting the information, Jim. I appreciate very much your contributions to these forums. :)

Please know I am not trying to be impolite, but I must ask. Do you have these items in your possession, and have you actually weighed them, or are you quoting another source?

I had 4 bikes delivered Thursday.
Have 3 assembled
1 has over 100 miles so far. I will give setup and riding information later as I work the bugs out of all the assemblies.

Weights tested on platform shipping scale.

I can understand your desire to seek accurate information. I don't mind the inquiry.

[jimjr21]

Initial build items.
Check ALL the bolts for tightness. Repeat ALL the bolts.
Check header to rear brake line clearance
Check evaporation system tube to header clearance (below battery behind main frame)
Check drive chain slack.
Tighten throttle cable slack
Check oil level all 4 bikes about 100cc low from factory.

Build quality of components is very good. Fit of parts is not bad but could be tightened up just a little for higher quality. Easy to assemble and work on.

[G19Tony]

That's the way to do it, Tony. :tup: Acquire all your possessions and fix your home exactly as you like before SWMBO arrives. :)

:hehe:

:lmao: That's right! I told her the other day that I got all my toys before I started looking for a GF. She says, "Yea, right. Like you strategically planned it":p Little does she know. I did. :lol:

[G19Tony]

My full year full coverage is about $65 a year. Same coverage I have on all my bikes. Took about 5 minutes to get coverage with cards through my American Family agent.

For reference my Ducati runs $135/ year.

I contacted American Family about a quote for the BMW,Honda and the RX3. We'll see what they come up with. :)

[jimjr21]

Initial ride report at just over 100 miles.

It has been a while since I was on a street bike with such low power. Power was sufficient to run 65-70 on highway two-up and keep up with flow or pass traffic.
Sound is very nice. I was very surprised. It is not quiet or anemic. Nice and throaty.
Passenger had buzzing of foot pegs but for me feet, hands and seat were all noticeable but not an issue.
Mirrors are too convex for my taste.
Wind protection was excellent. Windscreen moves air around body nicely. 5'8" rider with long torso.
Easy 1 foot flat or balls of both feet. 29" inseam.
Brakes are still bedding in but provide adequate power and feel.
Stock tires are smooth on road and provide plenty of stop and corner grip. Low noise. No off road testing yet.
After riding custom seats for years the seat is comfortable shape but a bit hard.
All controls feel very nice and are positioned intuitively.
Gearbox is great on upshift. A little notchy on downshift.
Neutral is difficult to find on a roll to a stop. Easy to find at a complete stop.
One false neutral when testing to see how lightly I can operate lever and still change. It is really low pressure to make this happen and without full lever motion.
EFI is really well sorted. From idle on up no hiccups or dead spots. Only issue I have is my idle needs to be raised. It is set to about 1,200 and engine dies. Should be 1,500. I will adjust and test more.
Suspension in stock setting was a bit soft in rear 2 up and a bit firm 1 up. Will have to adjust to find happy settings for me.
Front suspension was a bit soft 1 up for strictly road but as an ADV bike will be a nice mix for off-road use.

Can not wait to get more miles on the bike.

[SpudRider]

Full wet weight of bare motorcycle 363lbs.

USA equipped crash bars, mounts, and luggage 45lbs

CSC made leave on center stand 4.5lbs

6 LED lights pair 4.0lbs

I had 4 bikes delivered Thursday.
Have 3 assembled
1 has over 100 miles so far. I will give setup and riding information later as I work the bugs out of all the assemblies.

Weights tested on platform shipping scale.

I can understand your desire to seek accurate information. I don't mind the inquiry.

Thank you very much for your diligent work, and your helpfulness in reporting this information. :tup:

You list the full wet weight of the bare motorcycle as 363 pounds. Does that 'bare weight' include the engine guards and luggage?

[SpudRider]

Initial build items.
Check ALL the bolts for tightness. Repeat ALL the bolts.
Check header to rear brake line clearance
Check evaporation system tube to header clearance (below battery behind main frame)
Check drive chain slack.
Tighten throttle cable slack
Check oil level all 4 bikes about 100cc low from factory.

Build quality of components is very good. Fit of parts is not bad but could be tightened up just a little for higher quality. Easy to assemble and work on.

Once again, thank you for posting the excellent information. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Initial ride report at just over 100 miles.

It has been a while since I was on a street bike with such low power. Power was sufficient to run 65-70 on highway two-up and keep up with flow or pass traffic.
Sound is very nice. I was very surprised. It is not quiet or anemic. Nice and throaty.
Passenger had buzzing of foot pegs but for me feet, hands and seat were all noticeable but not an issue.
Mirrors are too convex for my taste.
Wind protection was excellent. Windscreen moves air around body nicely. 5'8" rider with long torso.
Easy 1 foot flat or balls of both feet. 29" inseam.
Brakes are still bedding in but provide adequate power and feel.
Stock tires are smooth on road and provide plenty of stop and corner grip. Low noise. No off road testing yet.
After riding custom seats for years the seat is comfortable shape but a bit hard.
All controls feel very nice and are positioned intuitively.
Gearbox is great on upshift. A little notchy on downshift.
Neutral is difficult to find on a roll to a stop. Easy to find at a complete stop.
One false neutral when testing to see how lightly I can operate lever and still change. It is really low pressure to make this happen and without full lever motion.
EFI is really well sorted. From idle on up no hiccups or dead spots. Only issue I have is my idle needs to be raised. It is set to about 1,200 and engine dies. Should be 1,500. I will adjust and test more.
Suspension in stock setting was a bit soft in rear 2 up and a bit firm 1 up. Will have to adjust to find happy settings for me.
Front suspension was a bit soft 1 up for strictly road but as an ADV bike will be a nice mix for off-road use.

Can not wait to get more miles on the bike.

That is excellent, detailed information. :) Thanks for posting it. :tup:

[G19Tony]

The Wolfman Enduro Tank bags fits perfectly. It seems right sized for the tank. I'm sure the other models will fit just as well.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0267.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0267.jpg.html)

In deference to the lawyers, I put a safety sticker on the windshield. :p

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0268.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0268.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Tony,

I see you replaced one of the handlebar bolts with a knob/bolt. What is that knob/bolt, and what is its purpose?

[G19Tony]

Tony,

I see you replaced one of the handlebar bolts with a knob/bolt. What is that knob/bolt, and what is its purpose?

That is a RAM mount, for GPS, phones, anything. I'm a big fan of those, too. Just like Wolfman stuff. :)

[jimjr21]

Thank you very much for your diligent work, and your helpfulness in reporting this information. :tup:

You list the full wet weight of the bare motorcycle as 363 pounds. Does that 'bare weight' include the engine guards and luggage?

No. Without the accessory guards, luggage racks, or luggage.

[oldqwerty]

Jim, do you think a 230 pound rider who prefers a bit stiff front end plan on a little higher viscosity fork oil right off the bat?

[AZRider]

Playing around with bags, i attached an old JC Whitney topcase that I had lying around. What do you think? I also have a smaller Coocase that is more proportional, but obviously doesn't hold anywhere near as much. With this case I can almost get away with carrying one only and it's very clean looking when removed.

[pete]

The only thing I dislike with a top box is all that weight so high & so far
rearwards...
I may look at one of these down the track when you fella's have put a few
miles on yours "trouble free miles..."
I have not got a small ADV bike since I striped all the road gear of the TTR250
it's to good as a play enduro / trailbike to put it back on the road..
striped only weighs 110kgs - 245lbs

My boys only a couple years away from getting his bike licence so him
on the RX3 or 250 ADV bike , me on the XT660 we will be able to go
away for weekend rides.. he can use it to ride to school aswell...

watching this thread with interest.......





.

[jimjr21]

Jim, do you think a 230 pound rider who prefers a bit stiff front end plan on a little higher viscosity fork oil right off the bat?

This would be personal preference. And you are blending springs and dampening into one question. If going lots of off road and aggressive may want same oil but stronger springs.

If hard core pavement only would want both stronger springs and thicker oil. But also then raising forks into triple clamp, etc.

[Weldangrind]

:hehe:

I can assure you, I will be keeping my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. It's a great little motorcycle, and I have a mileage record to pursue. ;) The Zong's odometer is quickly closing in on 69,000 miles. :tup:

In regards to my use of the term 'successor,' please check my very first post in this thread. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=163543&postcount=1

Can we agree on "younger brother"?

[Weldangrind]

I haven't seen the SS brake lines at Taobao.

HB has posted links in the past. Since they're not brand-specific, we should be able to just measure and buy the correct length with the correct bends. I intend to do that to Lifanda.

[Weldangrind]

Build quality of components is very good. Fit of parts is not bad but could be tightened up just a little for higher quality. Easy to assemble and work on.

Those are very encouraging comments.

[Weldangrind]

That is a RAM mount, for GPS, phones, anything. I'm a big fan of those, too. Just like Wolfman stuff. :)

Cool idea. Thanks.

[SpudRider]

That is a RAM mount, for GPS, phones, anything. I'm a big fan of those, too. Just like Wolfman stuff. :)

I suspected it was so, but I have never seen anyone mount a RAM ball in such a manner. ;) I have 1-inch RAM balls mounted on the handlebars of all my bikes to support the holder for my GPS receivers. :tup:

[SpudRider]

No. Without the accessory guards, luggage racks, or luggage.

Thank you for the clarification. :) I see Zongshen has underestimated the curb weight of the motorcycle. ;) Did your curb weight for the bike include any gasoline in the fuel tank?

[SpudRider]

Playing around with bags, i attached an old JC Whitney topcase that I had lying around. What do you think? I also have a smaller Coocase that is more proportional, but obviously doesn't hold anywhere near as much. With this case I can almost get away with carrying one only and it's very clean looking when removed.

It looks good to me; I plan to do the same. ;) If you need to carry something, the large capacity is more important than the appearance. If you don't need to carry something, you can easily remove the travel trunk. :) I mount a J.C. Whitney Travel Trunk on my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and it a smaller bike than the RX3. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Magruder%202014/Magruder2014229_zps014fa9a9.jpg

[SpudRider]

Can we agree on "younger brother"?

I rarely disagree with you on anything, so why should I start now. :tup:

[humanbeing]

...Since they're not brand-specific, we should be able ...
http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13773&page=3

[oldqwerty]

:thanks: , Jim. I hate front end dive when braking, and tend to kiss the inside mirror when dragging footpegs and such on pavement, so I'm going to try some 1-inch spacers to preload the springs if there won't be any coil bind and some 7.5w fork oil while setting the bike up. Once the suspension is broken in I'll be going through it, anyway.

That JC Whitney top box is smaller than the Rubbermaid luggage on Tdub. I agree with SpudRider, better to have the storage when you need it than need the storage and not have it.

[G19Tony]

I suspected it was so, but I have never seen anyone mount a RAM ball in such a manner. ;) I have 1-inch RAM balls mounted on the handlebars of all my bikes to support the holder for my GPS receivers. :tup:

I will be adding more RAM mounts to the bike. :)

[NoVa Rider]

At long last, congratulations on your new RX-3! Looks awesome! You're also in a great position to assess the merits of the 17 inch rear wheel. Happy riding!

[katflap]

Initial build items.
Check ALL the bolts for tightness. Repeat ALL the bolts.
Check header to rear brake line clearance
Check evaporation system tube to header clearance (below battery behind main frame)
Check drive chain slack.
Tighten throttle cable slack
Check oil level all 4 bikes about 100cc low from factory.

Build quality of components is very good. Fit of parts is not bad but could be tightened up just a little for higher quality. Easy to assemble and work on.

X 2
Have most of my bolts and nuts marked up for easy visual inspection. I used Tipp-Ex correction fluid as its easy to remove and re apply.
Worth doing as I had the front axle lock nut loosen off a bit.

"Food for thought" on chain tension

A while back I dropped the lower link on the rear shock so I could inspect the chain tension with the swinging arm horizontal to its pivot.

It was pretty damn tight. This was with the chain adjusted on side stand with an inch of slack at its tightest spot.(adjusted the standard way not as image below)

So I would suggest if you plan on riding with a heavy load, pillion or off road to do the same and check this for yourself.

Negative image
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/chain%20slack_zpstk7av6pe.jpg

I read this as the measurement between the swinging arm and chain

[katflap]

Thinking of removing the fork protectors and fitting Neoprene Fork Seal Savers :hmm:

What do you reckon, anyone used them before ?

[oldqwerty]

Chain adjustment seems to be critical. Haven't had a motorcycle yet that was immune to poor adjustment. Typically, too tight causes hard shifting and worn seals and bearings on the countershaft. Too loose causes false neutrals, jerky shifts, and clunky transitions between the wheel being driven by the engine and the wheel driving the engine (compression braking).

First chain adjustment during set up is a drawn out process. I always check for a true arc in swing arm travel (bought one bike with a misaligned frame), that the sprockets and chain all lign up (some sprockets have inset hubs that can move the teeth 3-5mm to the side if installed improperly), and the chain adjustment marks line up to keep the wheels aligned.

I support the swingarm with jacks (2x4s cut to length) with the tire just off the ground, then use straps to load the suspension until the chain is at its tightest. I have a motorcycle lift so I can use straps, but you can also simply load the back of the bike with tools or a couple friends or whatever.

Adjust the chain until it starts to drag (you can feel the drag when slowly turning the wheel), then back off 5mm or so until the drag goes away.

Watch the chain slack as you turn the wheel slowly. You'll see the chain tighten and loosen as the wheel goes around. This is normal as sprockets are not usually round because a perfectly round sprocket can cause all kinds of annoying harmonics and such. I make a mark on the sprocket with a Sharpie so I know where the tight spot is in the future. I prefer to adjust the chain on the tight spot.

Find the tightest spot on the sprocket. Adjust the chain so it is not quite too tight. Make sure the sprockets, chain, and wheel are in alignment with each other and note if the adjustment marks on the swingarm are correct or not. Doesn't really matter if they don't match, simply account for the mismatch when adjusting the chain in the future. Lots of bikes out there with mismatched adjustment scales. Makes a difference with handling.

Now unload the bike and set it on its stand. Note the chain slack. For adjusting the chain on the stand with the bike unloaded, that's where you want it to be. When prepping for a trip I do a complete service, load the bike, and note the slack on the stand with the sprocket at the tight spot. A loaded bike will usually have slightly less slack in the chain while on the stand than an unloaded bike.

Once you've been through the process and know what your bike's slack and axle alignment should be, it's a simple matter to roll the bike until the chain slack is at a minimum (tight spot on the sprocket), then eyeball the chain slack and axle alignment with the bike on its own stand as one normally would.

[SpudRider]

Thinking of removing the fork protectors and fitting Neoprene Fork Seal Savers :hmm:

What do you reckon, anyone used them before ?

Personally, I don't like them. I think they collect a lot of grit, and are troublesome to keep clean. However, I ride in dusty, muddy conditions a lot. Someone who rides more pavement might have a differrent perspective. :shrug:

I don't have any problems with my fork seals, as long as I clean the inner fork tubes regularly with a hose. I think the Neoprene Fork Seal Savers make this job tougher, and also make it harder to detect leaks.

[katflap]

Personally, I don't like them. I think they collect a lot of grit, and are troublesome to keep clean. However, I ride in dusty, muddy conditions a lot. Someone who rides more pavement might have a differrent perspective. :shrug:

I don't have any problems with my fork seals, as long as I clean the inner fork tubes regularly with a hose. I think the Neoprene Fork Seal Savers make this job tougher, and also make it harder to detect leaks.

Thanks Spud, I see what you mean. :tup:

It's thinking of some way to prevent stone chips without having the
fork guards on :hmm:, Just like the look without them :)


@ oldqwerty

Nice tutorial, some good tips :thanks:

[Weldangrind]

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13773&page=3

Thanks HB! :tup:

For anyone interested, this is the link he provided for stainless braided hose: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39034462085

[SpudRider]

X 2
Have most of my bolts and nuts marked up for easy visual inspection. I used Tipp-Ex correction fluid as its easy to remove and re apply.
Worth doing as I had the front axle lock nut loosen off a bit.

"Food for thought" on chain tension

A while back I dropped the lower link on the rear shock so I could inspect the chain tension with the swinging arm horizontal to its pivot.

It was pretty damn tight. This was with the chain adjusted on side stand with an inch of slack at its tightest spot.(adjusted the standard way not as image below)

So I would suggest if you plan on riding with a heavy load, pillion or off road to do the same and check this for yourself.

Negative image
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/chain%20slack_zpstk7av6pe.jpg

I read this as the measurement between the swinging arm and chain

You were wise to check. ;) The information plate on the swingarm is misleading, since it shows the distance between the chain and swingarm, rather than the total chain movement. :wtf:

The CSC tutorial on this subject shows a better way to measure the actual chain movement, and the total chain slack.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15160

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/ServMan24Feb_0011-650.jpg

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/ServMan24Feb_0012-650.jpg

Qwerty gave an excellent, detailed explanation of the definitive method for determining the proper chain slack. :tup: Of course, your method of removing the dogbone/link from the lower shock linkage works just as well. :)

Once again, please note, the information plate on the Zongshen swingarm doesn't specify chain slack. Instead, it specifies a distance between the drive chain and the swingarm, when the drive chain is pushed up against the swingarm. :ohno:

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k70/morco46/chain%20slack_zpstk7av6pe.jpg

In my opinion, the distance shown is incorrect. Using this method to check the drive chain tension, I want to be able to hold the lower part of the chain against the swingarm, without any gap. At the same time the top of the drive chain should be taut, without a lot of slack. This method is just a quick way to get a ballpark estimate of the proper slack required in the drive chain. Qwerty's method is the definitive method of determining the proper slack. Your method of removing the dogbone from the lower shock linkage also works well. :)

[SpudRider]

Chain adjustment seems to be critical. Haven't had a motorcycle yet that was immune to poor adjustment. Typically, too tight causes hard shifting and worn seals and bearings on the countershaft. Too loose causes false neutrals, jerky shifts, and clunky transitions between the wheel being driven by the engine and the wheel driving the engine (compression braking).

First chain adjustment during set up is a drawn out process. I always check for a true arc in swing arm travel (bought one bike with a misaligned frame), that the sprockets and chain all lign up (some sprockets have inset hubs that can move the teeth 3-5mm to the side if installed improperly), and the chain adjustment marks line up to keep the wheels aligned.

I support the swingarm with jacks (2x4s cut to length) with the tire just off the ground, then use straps to load the suspension until the chain is at its tightest. I have a motorcycle lift so I can use straps, but you can also simply load the back of the bike with tools or a couple friends or whatever.

Adjust the chain until it starts to drag (you can feel the drag when slowly turning the wheel), then back off 5mm or so until the drag goes away.

Watch the chain slack as you turn the wheel slowly. You'll see the chain tighten and loosen as the wheel goes around. This is normal as sprockets are not usually round because a perfectly round sprocket can cause all kinds of annoying harmonics and such. I make a mark on the sprocket with a Sharpie so I know where the tight spot is in the future. I prefer to adjust the chain on the tight spot.

Find the tightest spot on the sprocket. Adjust the chain so it is not quite too tight. Make sure the sprockets, chain, and wheel are in alignment with each other and note if the adjustment marks on the swingarm are correct or not. Doesn't really matter if they don't match, simply account for the mismatch when adjusting the chain in the future. Lots of bikes out there with mismatched adjustment scales. Makes a difference with handling.

Now unload the bike and set it on its stand. Note the chain slack. For adjusting the chain on the stand with the bike unloaded, that's where you want it to be. When prepping for a trip I do a complete service, load the bike, and note the slack on the stand with the sprocket at the tight spot. A loaded bike will usually have slightly less slack in the chain while on the stand than an unloaded bike.

Once you've been through the process and know what your bike's slack and axle alignment should be, it's a simple matter to roll the bike until the chain slack is at a minimum (tight spot on the sprocket), then eyeball the chain slack and axle alignment with the bike on its own stand as one normally would.

Thanks for taking the time to compose this excellent, detailed explanation for determining the proper slack in the drive chain for any motorcycle. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

You'll see the chain tighten and loosen as the wheel goes around. This is normal as sprockets are not usually round because a perfectly round sprocket can cause all kinds of annoying harmonics and such. I make a mark on the sprocket with a Sharpie so I know where the tight spot is in the future. I prefer to adjust the chain on the tight spot.

This fascinates me. I've given similar guidance about adjusting the chain on an unfamiliar bike in the past, but it never occurred to me that the sprocket center hole might not be concentric with the OD on purpose! I suspect that my China atv has a sprocket that is much worse than most, but at least I can work with it by using your method. Great tip on marking the tight spot.

[katflap]

Got a bit keen with the oil today and over filled :doh:

But rather than play with the sump plug to drain a bit off, where it can go

either way, just the right amount or all of it :D

Turned out its possible to get a thin plastic tube in through and down the filler hole, the one with screwdriver slot that sits above the clutch, and suck it up, block, take it out and release a tube full of oil.

Tastes great :lol: , nah , use a clear plastic tube so you can see where the oil is at. top bodge :tup:

[SpudRider]

Thanks Spud, I see what you mean. :tup:

It's thinking of some way to prevent stone chips without having the
fork guards on :hmm:, Just like the look without them :)...

If you prefer the look, you can certainly use the neoprene fork covers. :) However, I suggest you keep them very clean. Also, I suggest you lower them occasionally to inspect for leaks from the fork seals. Some of these covers have velcro strips in the back so you can install them easily, and remove them easily for proper cleaning. :tup:

You might also consider the conventional, accordion fork boots. ;) You can choose from a wide variety of sizes and colors. :)

http://www.daystarmx.com/productlisting.php?make=MX+Products&prodcat=Fork+Boots

http://www.daystarweb.com/images/products/tnforkbootFA.jpg

[SpudRider]

Thanks HB! :tup:

For anyone interested, this is the link he provided for stainless braided hose: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39034462085

X2. :) Thanks once again, Humanbeing. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Got a bit keen with the oil today and over filled :doh:

But rather than play with the sump plug to drain a bit off, where it can go

either way, just the right amount or all of it :D

Turned out its possible to get a thin plastic tube in through and down the filler hole, the one with screwdriver slot that sits above the clutch, and suck it up, block, take it out and release a tube full of oil.

Tastes great :lol: , nah , use a clear plastic tube so you can see where the oil is at. top bodge :tup:

Thanks for posting the tip, Kat. :)

Greatly overfilling the oil level must be avoided, since it can cause excessive oil pressures, and damage oil seals, et cetera. :tdown: However, if the oil level is only slightly high, the crankcase ventilation tube will automatically, safely remove the small amount of excess oil. :)

[katflap]

If you prefer the look, you can certainly use the neoprene fork covers. :) However, I suggest you keep them very clean. Also, I suggest you lower them occasionally to inspect for leaks from the fork seals. Some of these covers have velcro strips in the back so you can install them easily, and remove them easily for proper cleaning. :tup:

You might also consider the conventional, accordion fork boots. ;) You can choose from a wide variety of sizes and colors. :)



It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks :doh:

Thanks :yay:

[SpudRider]

It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks :doh:

Thanks :yay:

You're welcome. :) The Daystar fork boots are available in a wide variety of sizes and colors. Measure your fork tubes, and you should be able to find a pair of boots that will fit. You can also cut the back of the fork boots to facilitate installation and removal, without needing to disassemble the forks. Cutting the back of the fork tubes also allows for size adjustment, if necessary. ;)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dys-f00070cl?seid=srese1&gclid=CNLrptTngsUCFcWUfgod_RkA-w

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/dys-mx00058cl_w_ml.jpg

[SpudRider]

It never occurred to me that I could use regular fork boots for USD forks :doh:

Thanks :yay:

Here's a caveat. ;) If you decide to experiment with either neoprene fork savers or fork boots, make sure you have clearance between the inner sleeve of the fender and the fork saver/boot.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Forks_0021-650.jpg

Also, make sure the fork saver/boot on the right fork leg doesn't rub, and abrade the electrical line going to the speedometer pickup on the front wheel. ;)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Forks_0019-650.jpg

[woodlandsprite]

Hello, Gents :) new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

[katflap]

Here's a caveat. ;) If you decide to experiment with either neoprene fork savers or fork boots, make sure you have clearance between the inner sleeve of the fender and the fork saver/boot.

Also, make sure the fork saver/boot on the right fork leg doesn't rub, and abrade the electrical line going to the speedometer pickup on the front wheel. ;)


Just today I adjusted the position of the speedo line as it gets gritty
and was rubbing against the fork stanchion.

I will probably go with the regular fork gaiters that you suggested, not forgetting to put a small hole at the smaller diameter end :tup:

[katflap]

Hello, Gents :) new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!


I'm not the best person to give advice as there are far more experienced riders/ mechanics on here than me but as no one else has replied yet.

I would say if you stick to the CSC tutorials on chain tensioning and the rest for now and you won't go far wrong.

That doesn't mean that the stuff on here isn't valid but if you are completely new to it then it is possible to get bogged down in the detail.

Don't let it put you off, the bike is great and as you gain experience wrenching on it things will become easier :)

[SpudRider]

Hello, Gents :) new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

I'm not the best person to give advice as there are far more experienced riders/ mechanics on here than me but as no one else has replied yet.

I would say if you stick to the CSC tutorials on chain tensioning and the rest for now and you won't go far wrong.

That doesn't mean that the stuff on here isn't valid but if you are completely new to it then it is possible to get bogged down in the detail.

Don't let it put you off, the bike is great and as you gain experience wrenching on it things will become easier :)

Welcome to the fraternity of future RX3 owners. :)

I agree with Kat. :) Don't be intimidated; you will learn by doing the maintenance itself. Everything doesn't need to be done perfectly the first time. ;) Also, you will find many people here who are happy to help you as you progress. :)

[jimjr21]

Thank you for the clarification. :) I see Zongshen has underestimated the curb weight of the motorcycle. ;) Did your curb weight for the bike include any gasoline in the fuel tank?



Full wet weight includes all fluids to capacity.

[SpudRider]

Full wet weight includes all fluids to capacity.

I was confident you would reply in that manner, but I had to ask. ;)

:hehe:

[SpudRider]

Given JimJr21's weight measurements, and my own calculations, I have reached the following conclusions.

Advertised Curb Weight of Zongshen RX3: 386 Pounds
Actual Curb Weight of Zongshen RX3: 408 Pounds

Combined weight of the RX3 engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage: 45 Pounds

Actual Curb Weight of 'Naked' RX3 Motorcycle, minus engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage: 363 Pounds

For comparison, the Honda CRF250L has a curb weight of 320 pounds, but it only has a 2-gallon fuel tank. The Zongshen RX3 has a 4.2-gallon fuel tank, so we should subtract 13.2 pounds of extra fuel before we compare the two 'naked' motorcycles.

Zongshen RX3 = 363 pounds minus 13.2 pounds of extra fuel = 349.8 pounds
Honda CRF250L = 320 pounds

Therefore, the 'naked' Zongshen RX3 weighs about 30 pounds more than the Honda CRF250L. However, the Zongshen RX3 also includes a windshield, skid plate, and luggage rack. In addition, the NC250 engine of the Zongshen RX3 produces more power. Finally, the Zongshen RX3 is built with a very strong subframe, which is capable of carrying heavy loads without structural failure. When all factors are considered, I think the Zongshen RX3 compares very favorably with the Honda CRF250L. :)

Of course, the two bikes are designed for different missions. The Zongshen RX3 is an adventure bike, which has a very competitive price of $3,495, even though it includes a complete set of luggage and many other nice features which we have been discussing for over a year. :tup:

The Honda CRF250L is a dual sport motorcycle, which is more suited for difficult off road riding, and less suited for street riding. The Honda CRF250L has an MSRP of $4,999. If you wished to equip the CRF250L with a windshield, larger fuel tank, and many of the other stock features of the Zongshen RX3, its price would increase substantially. ;)

I am very pleased with my decision to purchase a Zongshen RX3 from California Scooter Company. :)

[SpudRider]

CSC has reported several springs on their center stands have broken. Therefore, if you have installed your CSC center stand, you should remove it. If you have not installed your center stand, don't do so until CSC ships you an improved spring. ;) CSC will be shipping new springs to all customers who bought the CSC center stand. :)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16201

[SpudRider]

JimJr21,

Your access to a shipping scale is a wonderful asset. Thank you for weighing the engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage. :tup:

If you have time, and are so inclined, I would love to know the weight of the very substantial muffler on the RX3. ;)

[G19Tony]

CSC has reported several springs on their center stands have broken. Therefore, if you have installed your CSC center stand, you should remove it. If you have not installed your center stand, don't do so until CSC ships you an improved spring. ;) CSC will be shipping new springs to all customers who bought the CSC center stand. :)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16201

A spring broke on me at CSC, when Ryan and I were putting the bike on and off the centerstand to learn the trick. It was replaced, then it broke again when I was home, and putting it up on the centerstand. I went to McFadden-Dale and got a spring that was 3 coils longer than standard. It looks odd when the stand is down, but it seems to be ok. Steve is sending me a new spring. I like the centerstand, it's very handy. :)

Here is the spring I bought. The coils are about the same thickness, but the attachments have more curve to them.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0269.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0269.jpg.html)

[Miss America]

Interesting about the springs. Glad to hear CSC is addressing the issue and has been up front and honest about it!

I requested the center stand to be installed prior to the Baja ride, so will have to see what happens with that!

[SpudRider]

A spring broke on me at CSC, when Ryan and I were putting the bike on and off the centerstand to learn the trick. It was replaced, then it broke again when I was home, and putting it up on the centerstand. I went to McFadden-Dale and got a spring that was 3 coils longer than standard. It looks odd when the stand is down, but it seems to be ok. Steve is sending me a new spring. I like the centerstand, it's very handy. :)

Here is the spring I bought. The coils are about the same thickness, but the attachments have more curve to them.



Did CSC weld a special attachment point for the spring, or does the stock frame come equipped with the attachment point?

[SpudRider]

Wow, I just realized I made the first post on page 200 of this thread. :wtf: I never imagined this thread would garner 129,000 views and 3,000 replies when I posted it almost 14 months ago. :)

Incidentally, there is a very good chance the Zongshen RX3 will soon get its own forum at this website. :tup: We will continue hanging out here on this megathread, but I'm sure we will also get many new threads started on specific topics regarding to the Zongshen RX3. :) I will move all the existing RX3 threads to the new forum, including the Zongshen RX3 Sticky thread, which is currently posted at the top of this Dual Sport Forum. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

[oldqwerty]

Hello, Gents :) new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

Only the first adjustment is so complex because the process I laid out also checks frame and swing arm alignment, that the alignment marks are even or determines they are not, which really isn't a big deal because the misalignment is easily overruled simply by sighting down the top of the chain to see if the sprockets are parallel and centered. If the sprockets are not parallel and centered you'll see a sideways kink when sighting along the top run of the chain. If working on the ground, bend over and look between your legs. If the marks are half a bubble off, they'll always be half a bubble off, so you can use them forever setting them half a bubble off and the chain will always be in alignment. You will also identify the tight spot on the sprocket. Mark it with a Sharpie and you'll never have to find the tight spot again. It will always be in the same place and need not be rechecked until it is removed from the hub and reinstalled.

Anyway, chain adjustment will make a lot more sense when you read the directions with the bike sitting in front of you. You'll need to do another adjustment after about 600 miles or so, and you'll probably do a third adjustment when you replace a worn out rear tire. O-ringed chains last a long time with minimal care. I expect you'll go through three, maybe four rear tires before you notice the chain stretching more than it used to, which will mean time for a new chain and sprockets. The Cyclone has a 520 chain, which is stronger than most chains on 250cc bikes, so I expect loooooong chain life.

[oldqwerty]

If you have time, and are so inclined, I would love to know the weight of the very substantial muffler on the RX3. ;)

Looks like the muffler weighs about the same as a CRF. And the trailer it sits on. I wouldn't be surprised if the muffler is lighter than it looks. Doesn't matter to me until I get a wild hair and a few days off to design and build a new exhaust.

[SpudRider]

Looks like the muffler weighs about the same as a CRF. And the trailer it sits on. I wouldn't be surprised if the muffler is lighter than it looks. Doesn't matter to me until I get a wild hair and a few days off to design and build a new exhaust.

I hope the RX3 muffler is lighter than it looks. :lol: One way or the other, I would like an accurate figure for its weight. ;) Rick Ramsey reported the muffler for the Honda CRF250L weights 12 pounds 4 ounces, without the heat shield. :wtf:

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250Lmods.htm

[Adjuster]

ACE Hardware has a large selection of quality machinery springs if anyone is interested in sourcing a new spring themselves.



/

[humanbeing]

Stand spring tool http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=106510&extra=&originator=yes&authorid=75082 made by a mechanic

[jimjr21]

JimJr21,

Your access to a shipping scale is a wonderful asset. Thank you for weighing the engine guards, luggage mounts, and luggage. :tup:

If you have time, and are so inclined, I would love to know the weight of the very substantial muffler on the RX3. ;)

9.2lbs including clamp and heat shield

There is a catalytic converter in the very front of the muffler. It is about 3" long and about that in diameter.

Biggest obstruction is the end tube on the muffler. The internal baffling is a perforated core with packing surround.

Overall looks like a very nice design for maximum flow.

[G19Tony]

Did CSC weld a special attachment point for the spring, or does the stock frame come equipped with the attachment point?

I do not know the answer to that. I just attached the spring in the hole provided. Perhaps Joe can help with that question. :)

[SpudRider]

9.2lbs including clamp and heat shield

There is a catalytic converter in the very front of the muffler. It is about 3" long and about that in diameter.

Biggest obstruction is the end tube on the muffler. The internal baffling is a perforated core with packing surround.

Overall looks like a very nice design for maximum flow.

Once again, thank you for posting that excellent information, Jim. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

Got a bit keen with the oil today and over filled :doh:

But rather than play with the sump plug to drain a bit off, where it can go

either way, just the right amount or all of it :D

Turned out its possible to get a thin plastic tube in through and down the filler hole, the one with screwdriver slot that sits above the clutch, and suck it up, block, take it out and release a tube full of oil.

Tastes great :lol: , nah , use a clear plastic tube so you can see where the oil is at. top bodge :tup:

That was a good solution. I would've tried to remove the plug and made a terrible mess.

[Weldangrind]

Hello, Gents :) new to motorcycling and bike maintenance. I have a deposit on an Rx3 but am a bit nervous of knowing how to maintain and troubleshoot. For example, the instructions above on checking chain tension only partially made any sense to me :P. Thx for compiling all those handy links in one place, Spud! I suspect I'll be needing them if I go through with the bike purchase!

Welcome!

I hope you have many happy miles on your new RX3.

[SpudRider]

I do not know the answer to that. I just attached the spring in the hole provided. Perhaps Joe can help with that question. :)

Thank you, Tony. :)

[Weldangrind]

I am very pleased with my decision to purchase a Zongshen RX3 from California Scooter Company. :)

I'm also pleased with your decision. I get to live vicariously through you. :D

[SpudRider]

I'm also pleased with your decision. I get to live vicariously through you. :D

As FastDoc might say, "I live to serve." :lol: