New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[Weldangrind]

I do not know the answer to that. I just attached the spring in the hole provided. Perhaps Joe can help with that question. :)


According to the pic, the upper spring mount seems to be a flat bracket that is retained by an 8mm bolt.

[SpudRider]

Weld,

JimJr21 gave us a nice report regarding the RX3 muffler's construction. :tup: Would you remove the catalytic converter? If so, what method would you use to eliminate it?

[SpudRider]

According to the pic, the upper spring mount seems to be a flat bracket that is retained by an 8mm bolt.

As always, you have a very keen eye. ;)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0269.jpg

[Weldangrind]

Stand spring tool http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=106510&extra=&originator=yes&authorid=75082 made by a mechanic

Genius! It uses the weight of the bike to hold the stand down, which gives you something to pry against.

[Weldangrind]

Weld,

JimJr21 gave us a nice report regarding the RX3 muffler's construction. :tup: Would you remove the catalytic converter? If so, what method would you use to eliminate it?

Definitely. I'd need to examine it, before I could establish a game plan.

[Miqueas]

Hello all, I just buy this bike two days ago, white one. AWESOME!

It's hard to say I'm not enjoying as much I would like. When I drive, as soons as I start the engine, by the right side of the motor I get a lot ot "wind".

Later when driving like 20 minutes or less it starts to get warm "this wind" or "vapor". My right leg gets really warm. All this "vapor" arrives to the right leg of the passenger too. I guess something is wrong.

Today I notice. I have to vents in each side. The left one actives but not too much, and not too warm. The right one, is very soon to actived it and gets "warm air".

Is this normal?
Why one side is warmer than the other?
Shouldn't be equal at both sides?
I'm in my first 87 KM.
I have not past 60 kmph on 4th gear.

[SpudRider]

I just received my RX3 motorcycle. Therefore, until I have a chance to ride my new bike for a few miles, I won't know if your experience is normal.

However, the hot coolant from the engine first travels to the right radiator, then moves to the left radiator, before returning to the engine. Therefore, in your case, I suspect the right radiator is venting more heat than the left radiator.

[rjmorel]

I just received my RX3 motorcycle. Therefore, until I have a chance to ride my new bike for a few miles, I won't know if your experience is normal.

However, the hot coolant from the engine first travels to the right radiator, then moves to the left radiator, before returning to the engine. Therefore, in your case, I suspect the right radiator is venting more heat than the left radiator.

Miqueas, Also exhaust is on right side. You don't have a hole in your exhaust blowing hot exhaust on you do you? Or is the clamp right by the heat shield loose and allowing exhaust to blow on your leg? Don't have mine yet , but looking at other's pictures that could be a source for heat.
You mention getting a lot of "wind " on the right side as soon as you start it. Is the right side radiator fan coming on as soon as you start it? As for the "vapor" are you loosing coolant from a loose radiator cap or hose clamp ? Just thinking out loud here. Let us know what you find.
rj

[Miqueas]

(...) I suspect the right radiator is venting more heat than the left radiator.

Thanks for the answer. I hope you can ride it soon.
I mean why the right radiator is venting more heat than the left one?

Anyone else is having this situation? I would like a explanation so I can understand this :hmm:

Even with this, great bike.

[rjmorel]

Spuds what color did you get? What trucking outfit did yours come on? thanks, rj

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the answer. I hope you can ride it soon.
I mean why the right radiator is venting more heat than the left one?

Anyone else is having this situation? I would like a explanation so I can understand this :hmm:

Even with this, great bike.

I have not heard of anyone else reporting this phenomenon. Therefore, I might be wrong. ;)

Since the hot coolant first enters the right radiator, a greater amount of heat might be removed in the right radiator before the coolant moves to the left radiator.

[Miqueas]

Also exhaust is on right side. You don't have a hole in your exhaust blowing hot exhaust on you do you? Or is the clamp right by the heat shield loose and allowing exhaust to blow on your leg? Don't have mine yet , but looking at other's pictures that could be a source for heat.
You mention getting a lot of "wind " on the right side as soon as you start it. Is the right side radiator fan coming on as soon as you start it? As for the "vapor" are you loosing coolant from a loose radiator cap or hose clamp ? Just thinking out loud here. Let us know what you find.
rj

Hi thanks for the reply, no holes, no loosing colant I guess, I haven't seen nothing.
As soon as I start, no. The first time was like that. I have checked right now and is engine ON but no vents working, which is OK.

When I say vapor, I didn't mean like smoke or something visible. I was refering like a blowing (vent, radiator)

My question is why the right vent is warmer and venting more than the left one?

Today I had it checked in the Zongshen service center. And they found nothing.

[SpudRider]

Spuds what color did you get? What trucking outfit did yours come on? thanks, rj

I ordered one of the fastest, orange bikes. ;)

:hehe:

My bike was shipped via Reddaway Trucking.

http://www.reddawayregional.com/

God willing, I plan to pick up the bike at the loading dock, and assemble it tomorrow morning. With any luck, I should have insurance and a license plate shortly thereafter. If all goes well, I plan to go for a ride, and take some photographs. :) Needless to say, I will certainly post my impressions. ;)

[rjmorel]

I ordered one of the fastest, orange bikes. ;)

:hehe:

My bike was shipped via Reddaway Trucking.

http://www.reddawayregional.com/

God willing, I plan to pick up the bike at the loading dock, and assemble it tomorrow morning. With any luck, I should have insurance and a license plate shortly thereafter. If all goes well, I plan to go for a ride, and take some photographs. :) Needless to say, I will certainly post my impressions. ;)

Hope you get a good nights sleep tonight Spud. I'd be awake with anticipation all night. Mine may ship this week. Nothing definite yet other then it's paid for and magnificent ORANGE too, rj

[jimjr21]

Hello all, I just buy this bike two days ago, white one. AWESOME!

It's hard to say I'm not enjoying as much I would like. When I drive, as soons as I start the engine, by the right side of the motor I get a lot ot "wind".

Later when driving like 20 minutes or less it starts to get warm "this wind" or "vapor". My right leg gets really warm. All this "vapor" arrives to the right leg of the passenger too. I guess something is wrong.

Today I notice. I have to vents in each side. The left one actives but not too much, and not too warm. The right one, is very soon to actived it and gets "warm air".

Is this normal?
Why one side is warmer than the other?
Shouldn't be equal at both sides?
I'm in my first 87 KM.
I have not past 60 kmph on 4th gear.

I would look for exhaust leak.
Here are reasons why.

Immediate wind with heat. Radiators take a while to heat up. Instant heat leads to exhaust.
Right side has three possible locations that would have an easy leak.
1) header to muffler joint. There is a fiber material clamping and sealing the two steel pieces. Easy to damage (or be missing)
2) O2 sensor. Loose, missing, cracked weld
3) Header to head. Loose clamp or damaged or missing gasket. Outlet is faced to right side and wind speed would blow to right side.

Having ridden in 40-70F temps so far 1 and 2 up there is no noticeable heat on right leg for either of us. Wearing jeans or work pants.

Good luck in finding the source of heat.

[oldqwerty]

9.2lbs including clamp and heat shield

There is a catalytic converter in the very front of the muffler. It is about 3" long and about that in diameter.

Biggest obstruction is the end tube on the muffler. The internal baffling is a perforated core with packing surround.

Overall looks like a very nice design for maximum flow.

Sounds like I won't be having to build my own exhaust to make me happy. Most manufacturers today know how to tune an exhaust for a single cylinder engine to match other components selected as a set to provide certain power characteristics. That is why engines of the same displacement can have such wildly different outputs. 250cc engines available today range from 12 to 45 horsepower, some with flat torque from just off idle to 10,000+rpm, some that won't pull a bike at less than 7,000rpm. Exhaust tuning is a HUGE part in the overall formula for each bike.

[jimjr21]

First fill up.
2.685 gallons at 161.0 miles = 59.96mpg 75% highways 55-65mph 50% 2 up

Flashing Empty on gauge at 143.3 miles.

Based on this I think an extra 50 miles range once Empty flashes without any issues. and almost double to full empty but with fuel pump overheating issues.

[oldqwerty]

Fuel pump overheating issues? Care to explain?

[jimjr21]

Fuel pump overheating issues? Care to explain?

Fuel pumps need to be immersed in fuel to not overheat and fail.

Total volume of fuel tank is not useable without damaging fuel pump.

So 4.2 gallon tank
~3.3 useable volume
~2.5 till Empty flashes

So when the idiot light starts flashing then you still have about 40% total volume of fuel in the tank. A carbureted bike has the advantage here. It can use 99.9% of its fuel before there is any issue. At 100% it stops running.

I guess I will have to drain tank and use scope while adding fuel to find actual volume that immerses pump completely.

[oldqwerty]

I kinda doubt engineers would expect 25% of fuel capacity would be necessary just to keep the fuel pump cool. One reason I jumped on the Cyclone was its tank capacity as I do not like risking the hazards of extra cans and bottles, pouring, filtering, etc. If the stock fuel pump precludes using most of that capacity I'll simply install an inline aftermarket pump and be done with it, but I won't be happy.

[rjmorel]

I kinda doubt engineers would expect 25% of fuel capacity would be necessary just to keep the fuel pump cool. One reason I jumped on the Cyclone was its tank capacity as I do not like risking the hazards of extra cans and bottles, pouring, filtering, etc. If the stock fuel pump precludes using most of that capacity I'll simply install an inline aftermarket pump and be done with it, but I won't be happy.

oldqwerty, That's a good idea. Would you disconnect the original and just leave it in the tank? Also would you use a hi pressure or lo pressure inline pump? I looked on the bay auction sight and they show both but I don't know which would work on the RX3? prices from $14 on up. rj

[jimjr21]

I kinda doubt engineers would expect 25% of fuel capacity would be necessary just to keep the fuel pump cool. One reason I jumped on the Cyclone was its tank capacity as I do not like risking the hazards of extra cans and bottles, pouring, filtering, etc. If the stock fuel pump precludes using most of that capacity I'll simply install an inline aftermarket pump and be done with it, but I won't be happy.

This is exactly what the engineers expect. 25% of capacity to cool fuel pump.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=14589

[Miss America]

I got my tag today for the RX3. The lady behind the counter struggled a bit trying to find the information for it, but luckily the packet Sara sent from CSC contained everything that she needed. In and out within 10 minutes with my new tag! Now I just wish I had the bike! LOL

[AZRider]

I've had my RX-3 for a couple of days now and have completed its first oil change. I was planning a local off-road trip and it occurred to me that I had not seen anything about the exhaust having a spark arrestor. Can anyone shed some light on whether this bike is legal for off-road? :hmm:

[oldqwerty]

This is exactly what the engineers expect. 25% of capacity to cool fuel pump.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=14589

Well, shucks, I'll just have to fix that.

I've had my RX-3 for a couple of days now and have completed its first oil change. I was planning a local off-road trip and it occurred to me that I had not seen anything about the exhaust having a spark arrestor. Can anyone shed some light on whether this bike is legal for off-road? :hmm:

There will be a stamping, usually on the spark arrestor, that says "USFS Approved" or something like that. That's what the authorities look for.

oldqwerty, That's a good idea. Would you disconnect the original and just leave it in the tank? Also would you use a hi pressure or lo pressure inline pump? I looked on the bay auction sight and they show both but I don't know which would work on the RX3? prices from $14 on up. rj

Don't know. Might just build a remote sump using the stock pump or add an auxiliary tank or both. I'll decide what to do but it will be a while before it becomes a recurring issue, so plenty of time to think it through.

Anywho, I've done a little surfing and found matched sets of real street tires to fit the stock 17 and 18-inch wheels. You can find that info here (http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52). I do plan to wear out the stock tires before changing to street tires, and eventually have two sets of wheels and tires to swap out. Not much available in motorcycle tires that don't fit Harleys or sport bikes around here, so I tend to order tires before they are a crisis issue.

[pete]

I have run my Yamaha XT660 down to the last few liters
a few times... I did have to replace a dead pump at
40,000km..
$800 for the pump unit from Mr Yamaha or $30 for just
the pump of E-bay....
guess what one I put in... going to get a spare just in case...



.

[SpudRider]

I spent the better part of Tuesday assembling my Zongshen RX3, registering the bike at the DMV, getting a license plate, and buying insurance. I finally went for a forty-mile ride on pavement, and the bike performed very well. :D

The U.S. Delphi EFI system performed smoothly, without any flaws. The 6-speed transmission is very smooth, and trouble-free. The bike has a nice clutch, and the 14T/44T sprocket combination is ideally geared for the pavement. The Siemens digital display and analog tachometer are excellent; I really like the gear indicator. :D The exhaust is quiet, but it has a nice throaty sound. Both brakes performed well, as did the suspension. I road a bit on the interstate highway, and the windshield did a very good job isolating me from the wind. It was a short ride, but I found the seat comfortable. I also like the upright riding position. The bike feels light and is easy to control during low speed maneuvers. The NC250/ZS177MM engine makes good power for a 250cc engine. The LED turn signals and tail light are very nice. The switchgear is also very nice. The Zongshen RX3 is a lot of fun to ride. :)

I like the saddle, but I dislike the seat cover; it is not very durable. I am going to cover the saddle with some stronger fabric. The headlight casts a nice pattern, but the 35W/35 bulb is too dim. I plan to install a 55W/60 bulb tomorrow, but I have already ordered the upgraded LED headlight.

I didn't take any photographs today. However, I am going to test the stock tires and suspension with some off road riding tomorrow, and I will take some photos at that time. ;)

[SpudRider]

I got my tag today for the RX3. The lady behind the counter struggled a bit trying to find the information for it, but luckily the packet Sara sent from CSC contained everything that she needed. In and out within 10 minutes with my new tag! Now I just wish I had the bike! LOL

Good for you. :tup:

[katflap]

I spent the better part of Tuesday assembling my Zongshen RX3, registering the bike at the DMV, getting a license plate, and buying insurance. I finally went for a forty-mile ride on pavement, and the bike performed very well. :D

The U.S. Delphi EFI system performed smoothly, without any flaws. The 6-speed transmission is very smooth, and trouble-free. The bike has a nice clutch, and the 14T/44T sprocket combination is ideally geared for the pavement. The Siemens digital display and analog tachometer are excellent; I really like the gear indicator. :D The exhaust is quiet, but it has a nice throaty sound. Both brakes performed well, as did the suspension. I road a bit on the interstate highway, and the windshield did a very good job isolating me from the wind. It was a short ride, but I found the seat comfortable. I also like the upright riding position. The bike feels light and is easy to control during low speed maneuvers. The NC250/ZS177MM engine makes good power for a 250cc engine. The LED turn signals and tail light are very nice. The switchgear is also very nice. The Zongshen RX3 is a lot of fun to ride. :)

I like the saddle, but I dislike the seat cover; it is not very durable. I am going to cover the saddle with some stronger fabric. The headlight casts a nice pattern, but the 35W/35 bulb is too dim. I plan to install a 55W/60 bulb tomorrow, but I have already ordered the upgraded LED headlight.

I didn't take any photographs today. However, I am going to test the stock tires and suspension with some off road riding tomorrow, and I will take some photos at that time. ;)

Glad to hear that you've got your bike and enjoyed your first ride :tup:

Off out on mine now , unfortunately to work (07.40am),but still love the ride in :)

[SpudRider]

Glad to hear that you've got your bike and enjoyed your first ride :tup:

Off out on mine now , unfortunately to work (07.40am),but still love the ride in :)

Thank you, Kat. :)

[Huck369]

Mine, and a buddy of mine, had 2 shipped to my place of business, and they arrived yesterday!....we both ordered Orange, without knowing what the other ordered :)

Got both of them to "Roller Status" so we could load them onto my trailer and haul them home....will finish putting them together tonight after work:cool:


(I know everyone likes pics)

[G19Tony]

I spent the better part of Tuesday assembling my Zongshen RX3, registering the bike at the DMV, getting a license plate, and buying insurance. I finally went for a forty-mile ride on pavement, and the bike performed very well. :D

The U.S. Delphi EFI system performed smoothly, without any flaws. The 6-speed transmission is very smooth, and trouble-free. The bike has a nice clutch, and the 14T/44T sprocket combination is ideally geared for the pavement. The Siemens digital display and analog tachometer are excellent; I really like the gear indicator. :D The exhaust is quiet, but it has a nice throaty sound. Both brakes performed well, as did the suspension. I road a bit on the interstate highway, and the windshield did a very good job isolating me from the wind. It was a short ride, but I found the seat comfortable. I also like the upright riding position. The bike feels light and is easy to control during low speed maneuvers. The NC250/ZS177MM engine makes good power for a 250cc engine. The LED turn signals and tail light are very nice. The switchgear is also very nice. The Zongshen RX3 is a lot of fun to ride. :)

I like the saddle, but I dislike the seat cover; it is not very durable. I am going to cover the saddle with some stronger fabric. The headlight casts a nice pattern, but the 35W/35 bulb is too dim. I plan to install a 55W/60 bulb tomorrow, but I have already ordered the upgraded LED headlight.

I didn't take any photographs today. However, I am going to test the stock tires and suspension with some off road riding tomorrow, and I will take some photos at that time. ;)

Very good report, Spud. :) My bike is still grounded for a paperwork issue. While checking it over. I found the switch for the hi/lo beams to be on the cheesy side. That's really the only nit I have to pick. I have all the panels off the bike right now. I'm impressed with the inside of the bike. I'm going to look at the air filter today, see how that comes out. Can't wait to get plates and take it out. :D

I'm also interested in the LED light upgrade. Please tell us more about it.

[Veteran]

Mine, and a buddy of mine, had 2 shipped to my place of business, and they arrived yesterday!....we both ordered Orange, without knowing what the other ordered :)

Got both of them to "Roller Status" so we could load them onto my trailer and haul them home....will finish putting them together tonight after work:cool:


(I know everyone likes pics)

Huck, is it just the picture or my eyes, because that bike looks VERY yellow?
I've pre-paid for two bikes, (one blue and one white), and I was thinking of changing my mind on the white one and getting Orange.....but that picture looks more yellow than I what like, (still a GREAT looking bike-don't get me wrong). I just like a deeper Orange.

[Weldangrind]

There will be a stamping, usually on the spark arrestor, that says "USFS Approved" or something like that. That's what the authorities look for.

The factory mufflers don't always have that stamping, like the Honda CRF250X muffler I'm using. As long as it's a factory muffler and it passes the coat hanger test, I'm told that most Rangers will be happy.

If you install an aftermarket muffler, that's where they insist upon a USFS stamp. I made sure the DG muffler I bought for my TW has such a stamp.

[Weldangrind]

Great looking bike, Huck. I'm pleased to see that stainless header.

[Veteran]

I've had my RX-3 for a couple of days now and have completed its first oil change. I was planning a local off-road trip and it occurred to me that I had not seen anything about the exhaust having a spark arrestor. Can anyone shed some light on whether this bike is legal for off-road? :hmm:

That's an excellent question because for me, most of my riding will be on USFS back-roads. I saw the other response about approved cans have "USFS approved" stamped on them and I've seen that myself, but I also know my BMW F650GS doesn't have that stamped on either can too and I suspect none of the other BMW's that ride the millions of miles of adventure trails don't either, (I could be wrong on that though).

Now that you've brought it up, I'm going to be paranoid. It's not like "back-in-the-day" when people rode 2 stroke dirt bikes with crappy stock or home-made exhausts and sparks flying out the POS pipe they had on and "possibly" starting forest fires, but there are regulations on the books now and I don't want to end up paying a multi-thousand dollar fine because Ranger Rick is over-enthusiastic either. I know the bike isn't going to burn down the west coast, but anti-biker, anti-motor- tree huggers, (of which there are aplenty around here), will look for any reason to get our fire-roads shut down from ALL motor vehicles. Dag.....I guess I better figure this out.

[Weldangrind]

I didn't take any photographs today.

I'm not even a little bit surprised. I would have been way too excited to bother with the camera. :D

[Veteran]

The factory mufflers don't always have that stamping, like the Honda CRF250X muffler I'm using. As long as it's a factory muffler and it passes the coat hanger test, I'm told that most Rangers will be happy.

If you install an aftermarket muffler, that's where they insist upon a USFS stamp. I made sure the DG muffler I bought for my TW has such a stamp.

I just read your response to the "USFS" question. I was typing my tirade at the same time. I hope you're right. What you said DOES make sense.

[SpudRider]

Huck, is it just the picture or my eyes, because that bike looks VERY yellow?
I've pre-paid for two bikes, (one blue and one white), and I was thinking of changing my mind on the white one and getting Orange.....but that picture looks more yellow than I what like, (still a GREAT looking bike-don't get me wrong). I just like a deeper Orange.

Don't worry; the bike is orange. The camera is playing with the color in that photograph. ;)

My RX3 is a much lighter orange than my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, but it is orange, and it looks great. :tup: My ZS200GY-2 is KTM Orange, which is color code RAL2008. RAL2008 looks a lot like Shimrin PCB32 (Pearl Tangelo).

http://www.houseofkolor.com/images/speedshapes/PBC32.jpg

My RX3 is Shimrin PCB31 (Pearl Sunset).

http://www.houseofkolor.com/images/speedshapes/PBC31.jpg

http://www.houseofkolor.com/speedshapes/speedshapes_shimrin.jsp

I am heading out the door to ride. I will post photos of the RX3 in natural sunlight, in it's native habitat, after I return. :tup:

[Huck369]

Huck, is it just the picture or my eyes, because that bike looks VERY yellow?
I've pre-paid for two bikes, (one blue and one white), and I was thinking of changing my mind on the white one and getting Orange.....but that picture looks more yellow than I what like, (still a GREAT looking bike-don't get me wrong). I just like a deeper Orange.

It is like Spud said above, it is Orange, the picture is just poor color quality....
It is a lighter Orange, but much more Orange than the pictures shows....

[woodlandsprite]

Glad to see more bikes arriving - and can't wait to hear more impressions.

Anyone who has received your bikes already put on hand guards of the wrap around variety? I'm paranoid about dropping the bike and munging up a lever and CSC says they only have the Moose Racing Flex handguards.

@spudrider am also interested in hearing about this LED light upgrade.

Folks who have the spotlights, just out of curiousity, what was the reasoning for getting them (I'm still contemplating having them added)

[oldqwerty]

Coat hanger test?

LED headlight option?

35/35 headlight bulb? Is it HID? 35/35 incandescents went out in the late '70s. If that's the case, no biggie. I have a couple 7-inch round dune buggy lights with legal H4 halogens (Silver Star Ultras) composite lamps that would make dandy "auxiliary" lights, and the Cyclone has plenty of wattage to support them. I suppose a relay power supply would be appropriate. Might toss the HID conversion left over from another project in the headlights just to bar-B-que all the road kill around here.

What you said DOES make sense.

Which is exactly why the government will not allow such an action.

My cousin is a USFS forestry dude. He told me no "USFS Approved" stamp, not legal. He did allow that safe, quiet operation on trails open to motorcycles with respectful riders and nobody would even look. Excessive speed, noise, bushwhacking, etc., and the tickets will flow.

[Huck369]

Glad to see more bikes arriving - and can't wait to hear more impressions.

Anyone who has received your bikes already put on hand guards of the wrap around variety? I'm paranoid about dropping the bike and munging up a lever and CSC says they only have the Moose Racing Flex handguards.

@spudrider am also interested in hearing about this LED light upgrade.

Folks who have the spotlights, just out of curiousity, what was the reasoning for getting them (I'm still contemplating having them added)


I have a set of wrap around hand guards to install on mine, if I get around to it tonight, I'll post pics of them...but I'll be out of town after tonight until Monday, so it may be next week before I get to mount them.....I may at least test fit one to see if it looks like it will work tonight...

[oldqwerty]

Maybe we can do a group buy on the LED headlight conversion and save some $$$$. Yup, I'm a cheapskate.

Hmmmmm? A pair of Trucklite LED headlights will fit in those buggy pods.

[Veteran]

Maybe we can do a group buy on the LED headlight conversion and save some $$$$. Yup, I'm a cheapskate.

Hmmmmm? A pair of Trucklite LED headlights will fit in those buggy pods.

I'd be in for a group buy of the LED HL conversion if someone was doing one. I'd do it myself, but I'm "elsewhere" for the next couple of months.

[oldqwerty]

Anyone know what kind of bulb is stock?

[G19Tony]

Anyone know what kind of bulb is stock?

I spoke to Steve earlier. He said it was an H4. I went out and bought a PIAA H4 that I will attempt to install this afternoon.

[Miqueas]

I would look for exhaust leak.
Here are reasons why.

Immediate wind with heat. Radiators take a while to heat up. Instant heat leads to exhaust.
Right side has three possible locations that would have an easy leak.
1) header to muffler joint. There is a fiber material clamping and sealing the two steel pieces. Easy to damage (or be missing)
2) O2 sensor. Loose, missing, cracked weld
3) Header to head. Loose clamp or damaged or missing gasket. Outlet is faced to right side and wind speed would blow to right side.

Having ridden in 40-70F temps so far 1 and 2 up there is no noticeable heat on right leg for either of us. Wearing jeans or work pants.

Good luck in finding the source of heat.

Someone can help find this thing? I have not know much about motors and motorcycles.
Problem: right radiator is venting more and heater than the left.

This is my video
https://youtu.be/EDWTXE1hRyc

[Veteran]

Someone can help find this thing? I have not know much about motors and motorcycles.
Problem: right radiator is venting more and heater than the left.

This is my video
https://youtu.be/EDWTXE1hRyc

I have to ask this; are you wearing pants or shorts when you ride? (No one laugh please) , if you're wearing shorts, you'd notice the heat from that side more than you would if you're wearing pants. Like someones said earlier; if it's an immediate problem after starting, I'd suspect an exhaust leak. If it's after the motor's warm, then perhaps radiator fan. Those should be the only two sources of heat unless you've got an internal motor problem which would manifest itself by metalic noises and discoloration of the engine case or cyl.

[jimjr21]

Initial dyno test.
Inertial type at rear wheel.
16.60hp @ 8230 rpm
12.47ft/lb torque @ 5950 rpm

I will try and get some graphs loaded.

[Adjuster]

Just looking at that video my first thought is the direction of the fan is going to throw heat either left or right.



/

[fishman10]

wow! those hp. numbers are alot less than advertised,,i think,if my memory of the specs. is correct!?? i could be wrong tho

[oldqwerty]

I spoke to Steve earlier. He said it was an H4. I went out and bought a PIAA H4 that I will attempt to install this afternoon.

:thanks:

Excellent! H4 is good. I have several H4 upgrades from previous experiences. I've yet to hear any complaints about poor headlight performance, but I can't tolerate ineffective lighting and will definitely come up with a plethora of solutions. 300 watts is a lot to play with, especially since the Cyclone is all LED, which draws almost nothing.

Is the stock 35/35 an HID by chance? Pictures look like a projector lamp. Either would be a blessing. Both would be AWESOME.

[Weldangrind]

Initial dyno test.
Inertial type at rear wheel.
16.60hp @ 8230 rpm
12.47ft/lb torque @ 5950 rpm

I will try and get some graphs loaded.

To me, that's a good number at the wheel. I bet the factory specs are at the crank.

To put that in perspective, CG200 motors are rated for around 17hp at the crank; much lower at the wheel.

[G19Tony]

:thanks:

Excellent! H4 is good. I have several H4 upgrades from previous experiences. I've yet to hear any complaints about poor headlight performance, but I can't tolerate ineffective lighting and will definitely come up with a plethora of solutions. 300 watts is a lot to play with, especially since the Cyclone is all LED, which draws almost nothing.

Is the stock 35/35 an HID by chance? Pictures look like a projector lamp. Either would be a blessing. Both would be AWESOME.

Not an HID. Just a really dim light. I bought my PIAA at Cycle Gear, where they had an LED conversion kit. I didn't hold much hope of that working. I will wait and get a ZS LED light at some point.

[rjmorel]

Someone can help find this thing? I have not know much about motors and motorcycles.
Problem: right radiator is venting more and heater than the left.

This is my video
https://youtu.be/EDWTXE1hRyc

Miqueas, Very good video. The only thing I thought of is seeing your overflow bottle seems to have a lot of coolant in it. Maybe it was over filled from the factory and it's burping out the excess now? I couldn't see any marks where it's suppose to be filled to so maybe someone else can check theirs and see where it's suppose to be???? rj

[oldqwerty]

Not an HID. Just a really dim light. I bought my PIAA at Cycle Gear, where they had an LED conversion kit. I didn't hold much hope of that working. I will wait and get a ZS LED light at some point.

What is a ZS LED?

I'll wire up a relay and run one of the H4 60/55 bulbs I already have. That will keep it legal.

If more light is needed I have 7-inch round headlight housings that will take Hella ECE composites and H4s on a light bar. Not legal on cars, but legal on motorcycles. Maybe a bit heavy, but they give awesome light.

[detours]

Someone can help find this thing? I have not know much about motors and motorcycles.
Problem: right radiator is venting more and heater than the left.

This is my video
https://youtu.be/EDWTXE1hRyc

Miqueas, is the temperature normal on the dash? This is probably a long shot, but I wonder if coolant isn't flowing correctly from right to left ... air in the lines could potentially block the flow. You could try to 'burp' the coolant lines following the procedure at the end of this tutorial (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15235).

Also, do you have a warranty on your bike? Maybe the shop would look at it for you.

[G19Tony]

What is a ZS LED?

Zongshen. I work in aviation. We abbreviate everything. :lol:

[SpudRider]

Anyone know what kind of bulb is stock?

I spoke to Steve earlier. He said it was an H4. I went out and bought a PIAA H4 that I will attempt to install this afternoon.

Perhaps CSC specified an H4 bulb, but the stock headlight bulb in the Zongshen RX3 is an HS1 bulb. HS1 bulbs are rated at 35W/35 for a standard bulb. Since the headlight output of the RX3 is fairly poor, I assume my RX3 has the 35W/35 HS1 bulb. ;)

The H4 and HS1 bulbs have the same connector configuration. However, one of the connectors is a different thickness. Therefore, you can substitute an H4 bulb for an HS1 bulb, but not the other way around. ;)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:KDS4444/HS1_bulb

I plan to install an H4 bulb in my RX3 headlight, since the H4 bulbs have more power, and the RX3 alternator generates enough electricity to support the brighter H4 bulb. :)

[G19Tony]

I got my title and registration. Thanks to Steve at CSC, for getting the new paperwork right out to me. I replaced the dim 35w headlight with a PIAA 55w H4 headlight. I was looking for a Sylvania, but nobody carried an H4 base, so I had to go to Cycle Gear, and they had what I was looking for. I also replaced the little marker light with a bigger LED I had in my scrounge box. It was an easy job to remove the headlight assembly.


Headlight while on the lift.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0279.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0279.jpg.html)

New marker light
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0280.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0280.jpg.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0284.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0284.jpg.html)

Low Beam
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0281.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0281.jpg.html)

Highbeam
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0282.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0282.jpg.html)

Low Beam with LED aux lights
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0283.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0283.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

What is a ZS LED?...

Zongshen. I work in aviation. We abbreviate everything. :lol:

I ordered the updated, RX3 LED headlight from Taobao. :)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37861433653

http://img02.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i2/524266847/TB2EBbiaFXXXXaXXXXXXXXXXXXX_!!524266847.jpg

I'm hoping my Taobao agent will ship my order of parts next week. As soon as my order arrives, I plan to install the upgraded, LED headlight. In the meanwhile I will experiment with an H4 bulb in the stock RX3 headlight. ;)

If enough space is available behind the RX3 headlight, one could also substitute an LED bulb for the incandescent bulb in the stock headlight, as I did with my Honda CRF250X. ;)

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13947

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/CRF250X%20Headlight/VariousAugustRidesandLEDbulb114_zps30e644c2.jpg

[Huck369]

A couple pics of mine after I rode it to work this morning...added a quick release JC Whitney Trunk to it....will add the crash bars and side bags after some break-in miles

[SpudRider]

I got my title and registration. Thanks to Steve at CSC, for getting the new paperwork right out to me. I replaced the dim 35w headlight with a PIAA 55w H4 headlight. I was looking for a Sylvania, but nobody carried an H4 base, so I had to go to Cycle Gear, and they had what I was looking for. I also replaced the little marker light with a bigger LED I had in my scrounge box. It was an easy job to remove the headlight assembly...

Good work, Tony. :tup: I plan to do the same in the next few days. Then after my upgraded LED headlight arrives, I can compare the stock HS1 bulb and the H4 bulb to the Zongshen LED headlight. :)

[SpudRider]

A couple pics of mine after I rode it to work this morning...added a quick release JC Whitney Trunk to it....will add the crash bars and side bags after some break-in miles

Nice work, Huck. :tup:

I installed the stock trunk for my first excursion on the dirt. The stock trunk is easily removed with three bolts. I plan to attach the mount for my JC Whitney Travel trunk with the same three bolts. Then I can easily swap trunks whenever I like. ;)

P.S. Your camera accurately captured the true color of the fastest, orange RX3. :tup:

[SpudRider]

As planned, I took my RX3 for a 131-mile ride to experience it's first excursion in the dirt. It was a cloudy day which threatened to rain, but I made it home without getting wet. :tup:

The day started out fairly warm, but I knew it would be colder when I was returning. Therefore, I was going to carry my heated jacket on the luggage rack with bungee cords. However, I decided to install the stock trunk instead. ;) The stock trunk is very light, and is great for carrying extra jackets, rain gear, cameras, et cetera, in a secure, waterproof enclosure. My jacket, as well as my camera and extra batteries were easily accessible, and my jacket was much more secure inside the travel trunk, rather than being attached to the luggage rack with bungee cords. :tup:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3152_zps7qzvlg9r.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3152_zps7qzvlg9r.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3161_zpsqogo1ou7.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3161_zpsqogo1ou7.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3165_zps8cg4252t.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3165_zps8cg4252t.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3194_zpsqxnbegyc.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3194_zpsqxnbegyc.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3207_zpsg5g0ktks.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3207_zpsg5g0ktks.jpg.html)

The RX3 did a good job in the dirt. :tup: The bike was only limited in the dusty soil by the stock tires, which still performed adequately. :) The forks definitely need heavier oil for a stiffer rebound damping. ;) I hope CSC will be stocking the upgraded forks, which feature rebound damping adjustment. In the meanwhile, I will be swapping the stock fork oil with ATF in the next few days. ;)

If you want to view more photos from my excursion, you might enjoy reading my ride report at the following link. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=183354#post183354

[culcune]

It brings tears to me eyes, Spud! It is like the beginning of the GY-2 all over again! Can't wait to see what adventures the RX3 will bring you!!

[SpudRider]

Thank you, Culcune. :)

[MICRider]

It brings tears to me eyes, Spud! It is like the beginning of the GY-2 all over again! Can't wait to see what adventures the RX3 will bring you!!

I agree, I loved following along with the upgrades and adventures of the orange Zong, the pics and ride reports are awesome :). Another bike for the sig! ;)
The RX3 is a great looking bike!

[Weldangrind]

Stew! How are you? It's been a long time!

[katflap]

I also replaced the little marker light with a bigger LED I had in my scrounge box. It was an easy job to remove the headlight assembly.

New marker light
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/G19Tony/DSCN0280.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/G19Tony/media/DSCN0280.jpg.html)

Nice mod, I would like to do this one .

Knowing next to nothing about LED bulbs, do they chuck out a lot of heat .My headlight has nothing in this portion (Honley RX3) . A bit
concerned about things starting to melt :hmm:

[Weldangrind]

LED bulbs produce almost no heat at all. They're ideal in enclosures.

[katflap]

LED bulbs produce almost no heat at all. They're ideal in enclosures.

Thanks, that's good news :tup:

[ripcuda]

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

[Weldangrind]

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

Yes, or no blinking. Resistors aren't the answer, because you're mimicking the current draw of a standard incandescent bulb, so there is no power savings. Many of us have installed LED lights to conserve power and be kind to the little charging system.

The answer is an LED-specific flasher. They're cheap and easy to find. I think Spud buys his from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ , but I bought mine from www.bikebandit.com (http://www.bikebandit.com)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks, that's good news :tup:

It is for me. My travel trailer / caravan had standard incandescent bulbs for interior lighting, and they were overheating the enclosed fixtures. A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

[katflap]

It is for me. My travel trailer / caravan had standard incandescent bulbs for interior lighting, and they were overheating the enclosed fixtures. A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

My LED hand torch puts out quite a harsh light, if it is anything like that then not to cozy for a caravan :)

--------------------------------------------
Just found a nice short vid of Honley Rx3 out on a ride.

https://youtu.be/rkbXM6uXHT4

[woodlandsprite]

A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

I bought some LEDs to replace the overhead recessed floods in my house - initially bought the daytime white and found them to be super harsh but super bright - have since bought "soft white" LEDs and they are much nicer and less harsh.

[oldqwerty]

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

I've never seen LEDs cause a faster flash rate, but I don't drive snazzy new vehicles with automatic butt wipers and such and accelerated flash rate can be a signal to tell clueless morons who don't pretrip that they have a turn light not working. Such idiot-proofing feature could easily use current flow anomalies to determine if all the lights are working, LEDs lower the current, and the accelerated flash feature activates because the stooped-proofing device thinks a bulb isn't working.

Usually, LEDs prevent flashing. LEDs use less electricity than incandescents and usually do not draw enough juice to make enough heat to activate the thermal device in a conventional (cheap) flasher. LED sellers made a LOT more money selling and installing resistors wired parallel to the LED lamps to cancel out the energy saving benefits of LEDs (they didn't tell you that, did they?) so the original flashers would get hot enough to flash. This is a sorry, complicated, expensive solution to a very simple problem.

A better solution is to pull the flasher from the vehicle, walk into any auto parts store, hand the counterperson the flasher, and ask for an electronic version of the same flasher because your LEDs messed up the flash rate. The electronic flashers are not load sensitive and just about always work perfectly no matter what combination of bulbs you have. $12, 5 minute fix, without chopping up your OEM wires.

If your bubble-baby turn signal out indicator is still causing a high flash rate, a single resistor in the wire between the flasher and electronic module that contains the indicator out sensor wizardry will cure the problem. A careful look at a schematic will reveal which wire needs the resistor.

I'll leave the calculations of the necessary amperage capacity and resistance value up to you as the concept is too advanced for this medium of communication.

[ripcuda]

Yes, or no blinking. Resistors aren't the answer, because you're mimicking the current draw of a standard incandescent bulb, so there is no power savings. Many of us have installed LED lights to conserve power and be kind to the little charging system.

The answer is an LED-specific flasher. They're cheap and easy to find. I think Spud buys his from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ , but I bought mine from www.bikebandit.com (http://www.bikebandit.com)

Ah... sweet. Much better way to do it.

Cheers!

[MICRider]

Stew! How are you? It's been a long time!
Hi Weld! I'm doing good, was out of the loop for a while but now I'm catching up. Lol

[G19Tony]

Nice mod, I would like to do this one .

Knowing next to nothing about LED bulbs, do they chuck out a lot of heat .My headlight has nothing in this portion (Honley RX3) . A bit
concerned about things starting to melt :hmm:

They put out a little heat, but I don't think anything will melt. If anything melt's on my bike, I'll let everyone know. :)

[SpudRider]

I agree, I loved following along with the upgrades and adventures of the orange Zong, the pics and ride reports are awesome :). Another bike for the sig! ;)
The RX3 is a great looking bike!

Thank you, Stew. It is great to hear from you again; we have missed you. :tup:

[oldqwerty]

They put out a little heat, but I don't think anything will melt. If anything melt's on my bike, I'll let everyone know. :)

Well, I do have a couple of H4 projector lamps without housings around the shop somewhere. If something melts, dremel it out of the way, and I'll hook you up with a source. One would be pretty easy to mount in place of whatever that extra light is.

[NoVa Rider]

CSC recommends changing oil before starting the bike for the first time. I am used to bikes and cars that come from the factory with what we used to call "break in oil" that should be changed after a few hundred miles. Not that the break in oil was anything special. My understanding is that the bikes are run briefly by Zongshen for testing before crating. Even so, I would think you could run the original oil for a bit before changing. If not 300 or 400 miles, at least for a engine heat-up cycle or two. At least to warm the oil up before draining.

Probably a matter of personal preference.

I notice CSC has a couple of recommendations. On the oil change tutorial it suggests the first oil change should be at 200 miles. But then Joe's blog recommends changing the oil before starting the first time, particularly since some of the bikes are coming over with low oil levels. Again, probably a matter of personal preference. If my bike needs much oil added before starting, I'll probably go ahead and change it with a motorcycle-specific conventional oil, just so I know what's in the crankcase.

[oldqwerty]

I notice CSC has a couple of recommendations. On the oil change tutorial it suggests the first oil change should be at 200 miles. But then Joe's blog recommends changing the oil before starting the first time, particularly since some of the bikes are coming over with low oil levels. Again, probably a matter of personal preference. If my bike needs much oil added before starting, I'll probably go ahead and change it with a motorcycle-specific conventional oil, just so I know what's in the crankcase.

Changing oil right off the bat is probably a good idea. You don't know what is in there already. I plan to do the same, right down to the dino motorcycle oil, already sitting on a shelf. Supposedly all Cyclones are run on a dino, and from the reports, run hard. I expect the rings are already half seated out of the box. I also plan to check the valves and plug gap during assembly, as well as all other adjustments. I plan an initial 19.5 mile ride that is nearly all stops and turns every couple blocks or rolling hills and curves with a 45mph speed limit which I'll fudge a bit. This route provides constantly changing rpm, road speed, throttle position, and loads so hot spots shouldn't be a problem. Then I'll stop for lunch to let the engine cool, then retrace the route home to an oil and filter change.

Next ride will be speed limits up to 55mph in the loess bluffs running along the east bank of the Mississippi River, then a roundabout route home through the rolling hills of west Kentucky and Tennessee, ending with a 65mph run over the last few miles. I'll stop along the way for lunch and maybe a couple times to let the engine cool. Back home for fresh oil.

Third and fourth break-in rides will be day long wanderings, speeds up to 65mph, among the hills of west Tennessee and Kentucky, as far east as Land Between The Lakes and perhaps as far south as Shiloh. Each ride will cover 400+ miles so several stops, a fresh filter and valve check after the third.

The final break-in ride will be first light until dark and in the same areas, but will include some brief stints on 70mph parkways and interstates. Ride five should see about 1500 miles on the odometer, so will be followed by an oil and filter change, but Mobil 1 4T will be going in.

I plan to have the forward illumination issue sorted before the 5th ride, which looks like it may be a SS1000, just because I haven't done one in a year and a half. Might do a BB1500 just for spits and tickles.

[fishman10]

yes spud,,i agree the front forks need something ,,i hope thicker oil helps!!just got mine assembled,,engine guard an luggage with the lugggage guards.i switched out the the top trunk for the larger J.c. whitney quick release one...On that note they dont build them like they used too.My brand new jc whitney trunk had a crappy flimsey mounting plate which it wouldnt stay latched too!! ,,so i got the old one (same size} out from my old zong and mounted it and it works and latches down down perfect and the mount plate it definately made better at the latch point.But of course ,I buy a new bike and now its freezing here in central PA Now to try and mount up the cree L.E.D. spots,i got of Ebay for $50,,maybe try an mount them engine guard,,,,,,,,,,,

[AZRider]

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

[culcune]

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

You do know you will have to road trip to Yuma one of these weeks before it gets too hot...

[Weldangrind]

Tonight is bike night in Glendale, AZ and I thought I'd introduce Phoenix to my RX-3.

Were there any comments or questions from spectators?

[Weldangrind]

My brand new jc whitney trunk had a crappy flimsey mounting plate which it wouldnt stay latched too!! ,,so i got the old one (same size} out from my old zong and mounted it and it works and latches down down perfect and the mount plate it definately made better at the latch point.

That's good info, Fish. Perhaps the JC Whitney trunks aren't the value they were a couple of years ago.

[paisleyrider]

I picked up my RX3 from CSC last week, then spent 4 days camping along the 1 taking it back to Oakland. :tup: My hat goes off to the helpful and knowledgeable folks I met at CSC. I feel like I am in good hands for the coming years of maintenance and mishap on this great bike :clap:
:thanks:
This bike is a freaking dream machine.The 250 cranks out enough power to go 65 on the freeway which is all I need, although it does get pretty buzzy. I just got an Airhawk so maybe that along with some handguards with threaded inserts will improve the comfort.

https://i.imgur.com/6ejWMWj.jpg

It's so easy to mount luggage securely on this bike due to the great engine guards. Notice the backpack mounted to the front engine guard in the photo above; it's much better to ride with weight forward and low like that than with big aluminum cases.

A question: I'm looking at handguards now and wondering about how to get big bar adapters on 1" bars. All the adapters I have been able to find are 1 1/8" adapters :hmm: :ear:

[Weldangrind]

That sounds like a terrific adventure!

[SpudRider]

I picked up my RX3 from CSC last week, then spent 4 days camping along the 1 taking it back to Oakland. :tup: My hat goes off to the helpful and knowledgeable folks I met at CSC. I feel like I am in good hands for the coming years of maintenance and mishap on this great bike :clap:
:thanks:
This bike is a freaking dream machine.The 250 cranks out enough power to go 65 on the freeway which is all I need, although it does get pretty buzzy. I just got an Airhawk so maybe that along with some handguards with threaded inserts will improve the comfort.

It's so easy to mount luggage securely on this bike due to the great engine guards. Notice the backpack mounted to the front engine guard in the photo above; it's much better to ride with weight forward and low like that than with big aluminum cases.

A question: I'm looking at handguards now and wondering about how to get big bar adapters on 1" bars. All the adapters I have been able to find are 1 1/8" adapters :hmm: :ear:

Thanks for posting the nice report. :)

The handlebars are 1-inch, so you can use the standard, big bar adapters. :)

[paisleyrider]

Spud, Steve told me they bars are 1" at the triple clamp and they taper to 7/8. I tried to order Nexgen handguards from HDB and they refused to sell to me because neither their 7/8 or 9/8 adapters would fit :shrug: if 1" adapters dont exist the best option I can see is 9/8 with some sugru or other filler to fill the gap.

Weld, it was a transformative experience. I feel like I went from zero to hero in the span of a few days, from dropping my bike twice in the lot at CSC to ending the trip alive with 600 on the odometer. Camping on the beach under the stars... perfection. wish my gopro was funcionando but there's more to come.

[SpudRider]

Spud, Steve told me they bars are 1" at the triple clamp and they taper to 7/8. I tried to order Nexgen handguards from HDB and they refused to sell to me because neither their 7/8 or 9/8 adapters would fit :shrug: if 1" adapters dont exist the best option I can see is 9/8 with some sugru or other filler to fill the gap.

Weld, it was a transformative experience. I feel like I went from zero to hero in the span of a few days, from dropping my bike twice in the lot at CSC to ending the trip alive with 600 on the odometer. Camping on the beach under the stars... perfection. wish my gopro was funcionando but there's more to come.

Just to be certain, I measured my handlebars at the triple clamps; they are 1-1/8 inch in diameter. ;)

[fishman10]

I also want some handguards ,,has any one found any that look ,good and ptotect,,,Theres no way of matching the color ,,mines also the weird orange/sunflower yellow,,,so i was figuring black or carbon fiber finish.. Thanks

[G19Tony]

Spud, Steve told me they bars are 1" at the triple clamp and they taper to 7/8. I tried to order Nexgen handguards from HDB and they refused to sell to me because neither their 7/8 or 9/8 adapters would fit :shrug: if 1" adapters dont exist the best option I can see is 9/8 with some sugru or other filler to fill the gap.

Weld, it was a transformative experience. I feel like I went from zero to hero in the span of a few days, from dropping my bike twice in the lot at CSC to ending the trip alive with 600 on the odometer. Camping on the beach under the stars... perfection. wish my gopro was funcionando but there's more to come.

HDB didn't have a problem selling me the Next Gen handguards. Money is money, I guess. They don't work. I'm going to wind up ordering their bars. I just have to determine what bend I'd like. I got the blue, and it matches the bike quite well. I'll make them work.

[paisleyrider]

Thanks for measuring Spud, I'm happy to be wrong :)

Tony, which part of the NexGen handguards did not work? Is the windscreen getting in the way? Seemed like that was the tightest tolerance when I was visualizing install.

[G19Tony]

Tony, which part of the NexGen handguards did not work? Is the windscreen getting in the way? Seemed like that was the tightest tolerance when I was visualizing install.

I didn't even get to the windshield. The bar clamps would not fit around the plastic that surrounds the key. Raising the bar might help a bit. I may do that anyway, if I'm going to do any standing on the pegs. I really like HDB. I've had them on other bikes. They work great. :)

[SpudRider]

I also want some handguards ,,has any one found any that look ,good and ptotect,,,Theres no way of matching the color ,,mines also the weird orange/sunflower yellow,,,so i was figuring black or carbon fiber finish.. Thanks

I've got Tusk D-Flex Handguards mounted on the 1-1/8" handlebars of my Honda CRF250X. In the next few days I will check to see if they also fit the RX3. If so, I will be also be ordering a pair for the RX3 as well. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1036/9550/Tusk-D-Flex-Handguards-Spoilers?term=tusk%20d-flex%20handguards

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_def_kit_red-blk_clip.jpg

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1036/9546/Tusk-D-Flex-Handguard-Big-Bar-Adaptor-%28P%29?term=tusk%20d-flex%20handguards

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_dflex_bbar_ada.jpg

[woodlandsprite]

I've got Tusk D-Flex Handguards mounted on the 1-1/8" handlebars of my Honda CRF250X. In the next few days I will check to see if they also fit the RX3. If so, I will be also be ordering a pair for the RX3 as well. :)


I'm really looking forward to hearing if these work. How would you rate handguard install for someone new to doing maintenance?

[oldqwerty]

It certainly would be nice to have a bolt-on hand guard solution. At first I thought all I wanted was something to keep the HippoHands off the levers, but I'll eventually be doing some more serious adventuring on unpaved roads and will need brush and drop protection. Might as well get 'er done.

I'm also thinking the small turn signals so close to the headlight may not be visible to other drivers. The Freightliner Cascadia turn signals can not be seen at all from the front when the headlights are on. Since I've noticed it on my Cascadia I've seen the same phenomenon on many other vehicles. LED turn/clearance lights recessed in brush guards would be an excellent solution when the Hippo Hands are not being used.

[SpudRider]

It certainly would be nice to have a bolt-on hand guard solution. At first I thought all I wanted was something to keep the HippoHands off the levers, but I'll eventually be doing some more serious adventuring on unpaved roads and will need brush and drop protection. Might as well get 'er done.

I'm also thinking the small turn signals so close to the headlight may not be visible to other drivers. The Freightliner Cascadia turn signals can not be seen at all from the front when the headlights are on. Since I've noticed it on my Cascadia I've seen the same phenomenon on many other vehicles. LED turn/clearance lights recessed in brush guards would be an excellent solution when the Hippo Hands are not being used.

These Tusk D-Flex Handguards use the same mounting hardware as mine, but include turn signals. If my Tusk handguards without turn signals fit, these handguards with turn signals will also fit. ;)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1156/26143/Tusk-D-Flex-Handguards-with-Turn-Signals?term=tusk%20d%20flex%20flex%20handguards%2 0with%20turn%20signals

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_10_d-fle_han_tur_sig_blk.jpg

[SpudRider]

I'm really looking forward to hearing if these work. How would you rate handguard install for someone new to doing maintenance?

I might get a chance to do the test fit today. ;) The handguard installation is not difficult, especially if you see photographs of the handguards installed on the same motorcycle as yours. :)

I will also be ordering the Tusk Grip Heater Kit.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/998/-/187028/Tusk-Grip-Heater-Kit?term=1246950001

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_09_gri_hea_kit-2.jpg

These grips heaters work great. :tup: I have them installed on both my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and my Honda XR650L.

[woodlandsprite]

I might get a chance to do the test fit today. ;) The handguard installation is not difficult, especially if you see photographs of the handguards installed on the same motorcycle as yours. :)


Thanks @Spudrider - I've been watching installation videos and the cutting off of the throttle bar end is somewhat unnerving :P I'm thinking i might want the ones with the signal lights, but that adds the complexity of having to deal with wiring.

Ah well, best way to learn is to give it a go...though I still find it unnerving - the thing that cracks me up is the nervousness I feel with wrenching is probably the same nervousness that some people feel with dealing with technology - I have no problems doing IT support for my household or even simple programming :D, but wrenching definitely is more nervewracking :cry:

[oldqwerty]

Spudrider, those heaters look exactly like the ones on my TWs. Mine came in a plain white box and I'm guessing they are off the same assembly line. Same price, too. The hand guards look perfect. I'm going to have to check on how bright the LEDs are. I've seen lots that aren't worth the trouble to hook up.

woodlandsprite, if you want it, get it. You can have what you want, just be patient, persistent, and thorough planning your mods. The learning curve isn't that big a deal.

EDIT: Okay, good reviews on the Tusk hang guards with lights, and Tusk even sells replacement lights in pairs, which is a good thing due to my propensity to hit things.

[SpudRider]

I cut the end from the left handgrip of my RX3 to determine the diameter of the hole inside the handlebars. The hole is only 1/2-inch in diameter, and the Tusk D-Flex Handguards require a hole at least 5/8-inch in diameter. Therefore, the Tusk D-Flex handguards will not fit the stock handlebars of the RX3. :ohno:

However, the D-Flex Handguards will certainly fit the Tusk Chub (1-1/8 inch) handlebars, which only cost $39.99. I mounted Tusk aluminum handlebars on my Honda XR650L, and they very nice. :tup: The Tusk Chub handlebars are black. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/947/19027/Tusk-Chub-1-1-8%22-Big-Bar?term=aluminum%20handlebars%20tusk%20t-10

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_han_chu_big_bar_blk.jpg

[SpudRider]

Thanks @Spudrider - I've been watching installation videos and the cutting off of the throttle bar end is somewhat unnerving :P I'm thinking i might want the ones with the signal lights, but that adds the complexity of having to deal with wiring.

Ah well, best way to learn is to give it a go...

You can do it. :) Using a hacksaw, it is very easy to remove the end of the throttle tube. :tup: The turn signals undoubtedly come with bullet connectors, which will simply plug into the same connectors for the stock turn signals on the bike's wiring harness. ;)

[rjmorel]

I cut the end from the left handgrip of my RX3 to determine the diameter of the hole inside the handlebars. The hole is only 1/2-inch in diameter, and the Tusk D-Flex Handguards require a hole at least 5/8-inch in diameter. Therefore, the Tusk D-Flex handguards will not fit the stock handlebars of the RX3. :ohno:

However, the D-Flex Handguards will certainly fit the Tusk Chub (1-1/8 inch) handlebars, which only cost $39.99. I mounted Tusk aluminum handlebars on my Honda XR650L, and they very nice. :tup: The Tusk Chub handlebars are black. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/947/19027/Tusk-Chub-1-1-8%22-Big-Bar?term=aluminum%20handlebars%20tusk%20t-10

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_han_chu_big_bar_blk.jpg
Spuds, know any machinist in your area? Wouldn't take much to put the mount that goes in the 1/2" handlebar hole and turn it down in a lathe. rj

[detours]

The RX3 did a good job in the dirt. :tup: The bike was only limited in the dusty soil by the stock tires, which still performed adequately. :) The forks definitely need heavier oil for a stiffer rebound damping. ;) I hope CSC will be stocking the upgraded forks, which feature rebound damping adjustment. In the meanwhile, I will be swapping the stock fork oil with ATF in the next few days. ;)


Nice ride report :tup:

I think ATF is about 10w oil ... so do you think the stock oil is maybe a 5w? Also, how did the shock perform? If I remember right it has adjustable rebound. Did you adjust it at all?

[SpudRider]

Spudrider, those heaters look exactly like the ones on my TWs. Mine came in a plain white box and I'm guessing they are off the same assembly line. Same price, too...

Yes, I'm sure they are the same grip heaters from the same Chinese factory. Chinese bikes deserve Chinese grip heaters. ;)

...woodlandsprite, if you want it, get it. You can have what you want, just be patient, persistent, and thorough planning your mods. The learning curve isn't that big a deal...

I agree. All you need is a little patience and persistence, and I am sure you will prevail. :)

...EDIT: Okay, good reviews on the Tusk hang guards with lights, and Tusk even sells replacement lights in pairs, which is a good thing due to my propensity to hit things.

Yes, all of the components of the Tusk D-Flex handguards are sold separately, which is a very economical way to replace broken items. :tup:

[Veteran]

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?
- Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?
- Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

[SpudRider]

Nice ride report :tup:

I think ATF is about 10w oil ... so do you think the stock oil is maybe a 5w? Also, how did the shock perform? If I remember right it has adjustable rebound. Did you adjust it at all?

Thank you. :) I went riding some more dirt yesterday, so I am going to post an update to my ride report later today, including more photos of the RX3 in its native habitat. ;)

I did experiment with the rebound damping of the shock absorber, and it works pretty well. I will post more specifics in my ride report update. I believe you are correct on both points regarding the fork oil. I have used ATF in my other Zong's forks, and it helped matters nicely. You can read the details regarding oil viscosity, et cetera, in the following thread, starting at posts #27, #48, and #63.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266&page=2

[SpudRider]

Spuds, know any machinist in your area? Wouldn't take much to put the mount that goes in the 1/2" handlebar hole and turn it down in a lathe. rj

You can enlarge the hole in the stock handlebars with a powerful drill, but I don't know if you have enough material available to reduce the diameter of the handguard mounts. :shrug: Quite frankly, I would rather spend $40 and get a pair of black, Tusk Chub (1-1/8") handlebars. ;)

[SpudRider]

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?...

Yes. :)

... - Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?...

Yes. :)

... - Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

Yes, every ZS177MM/NC250 engine has 2 intake valves, and 2 exhaust valves. :)

[woodlandsprite]

I cut the end from the left handgrip of my RX3 to determine the diameter of the hole inside the handlebars. The hole is only 1/2-inch in diameter, and the Tusk D-Flex Handguards require a hole at least 5/8-inch in diameter. Therefore, the Tusk D-Flex handguards will not fit the stock handlebars of the RX3. :ohno:
Now that there is a bummer :(
also good that you knew the hole size required, because it doesn't seem that most listings include the specifications for the bar-end mount hole-size requirement!

[SpudRider]

There are two other factors to consider regarding the installation of wrap-around handguards for the Zongshen RX3. One is the large mount for the banjo bolt of the brake line, which projects forward from the brake master cylinder. The other factor is having enough room so the handguard mounts don't contact the windshield. I was examining these issues in my driveway, when it started to rain. :tdown: It is going to rain the rest of today, so I will continue examining the fitment of the Tusk D-Flex Handguards as soon as the rain disappears. ;)

[SpudRider]

Now that there is a bummer :(
also good that you knew the hole size required, because it doesn't seem that most listings include the specifications for the bar-end mount hole-size requirement!

As soon as I discovered the small, 1/2-inch hole, I telephoned Rocky Mountain ATV. ;) They told me the minimum hole required is 5/8-inch.

[woodlandsprite]

There are two other factors to consider regarding the installation of wrap-around handguards for the Zongshen RX3.

The clearance issue seems to be something that all bikes have to contend with to various extents.
I noticed the barkbusters on my husband's bike are a bit nicked up where they hit the aftermarket windshield brace - basically there is no extra room at all to get a full turn of the handlebars.

Guess I'll sit tight while you experiment ;) and hope that when my bike gets here I'm less prone to dropping it. *sigh* all parts of learning it seems.
Also, given the measurements you've noted, I zinged a note over to Barkbusters to see if any of theirs will fit the stock bars - will report back once I hear something.

Are you acquiring new grips as well?

[SpudRider]

The clearance issue seems to be something that all bikes have to contend with to various extents.
I noticed the barkbusters on my husband's bike are a bit nicked up where they hit the aftermarket windshield brace - basically there is no extra room at all to get a full turn of the handlebars.

Guess I'll sit tight while you experiment ;) and hope that when my bike gets here I'm less prone to dropping it. *sigh* all parts of learning it seems.

Are you acquiring new grips as well?

The windshield of the RX3 has large cutouts to accommodate the full-lock position of the handlebars, so I am optimistic. :tup:

The stock handgrips are very thick, which I prefer. I like them a lot. :tup: Therefore, I haven't decided if I am going to get new grips. :shrug:

[woodlandsprite]

The stock handgrips are very thick, which I prefer. I like them a lot. :tup: Therefore, I haven't decided if I am going to get new grips. :shrug:

Based on that, I'm guessing it means you can reuse the grips, or you have high confidence in being able to do so with the swapped out bars - was wondering if there is a "standard" for the taper on bar center to bar end so that components fit properly on aftermarket bars.

hopefully that made sense!

[SpudRider]

Based on that, I'm guessing it means you can reuse the grips, or you have high confidence in being able to do so with the swapped out bars - was wondering if there is a "standard" for the taper on bar center to bar end so that components fit properly on aftermarket bars.

hopefully that made sense!

Yes, using an air compressor, it should be easy to remove the stock grips, and install them on new handlebars. All handlebars are standardized with 7/8-inch diameter at the ends. Therefore, all levers, switchgear, et cetera, can be transferred from any set of handlebars to another set of handlebars.

Big bar handlebars (1-1/8 inch) are thicker at the center, for added strength. However, they taper to the standardized, 7/8-inch diameter at the ends. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

Just an FYI, was just talking to Ryan at CSC, he mentioned they were able to install a pair of Barkbusters wraparounds (I'm presuming he was talking the brand, not the generic styling of hand protectors) - but he indicated they had to customize the clamp hardware - the stock clamps were too long and were resulting in hitting the windshield *sigh*

[Veteran]

Yes. :)



Yes. :)



Yes, every ZS177MM/NC250 engine has 2 intake valves, and 2 exhaust valves. :)

Thanks Spud.

[pete]

So with the limited miles you have put on the bike...
hows the vibration if any..... handle bars/foot pegs..
looks as if thats something i have to start concidering
now... As I now have carpal tunnel my XT660 gives my
right hand a real hard time..goes numbe in about
30mins of riding at 100kmph... 4000rpm is a real
bad vibration zone on the XT...

[oldqwerty]

Yes, using an air compressor, it should be easy to remove the stock grips, and install them on new handlebars. All handlebars are standardized with 7/8-inch diameter at the ends. Therefore, all levers, switchgear, et cetera, can be transferred from any set of handlebars to another set of handlebars.

Big bar handlebars (1-1/8 inch) are thicker at the center, for added strength. However, they taper to the standardized, 7/8-inch diameter at the ends. ;)

Some big cruisers and tourers have 1-inch handlebars under the controls. Pretty much everything else in the world is 7/8.

Are the stock bars aluminum or steel? If steel, with only a 1/2 inch hole, they would be very heavy. Tough as a tank, but way heavy. If there is that much material there I'll just tap some threads and drill the guards to match. Simple solution.

If anyone is installing grip heaters, wrap the left bar with friction tape to the approximate diameter of the throttle tube on the right. Then install the heater and a right side throttle diameter handgrip on the left. Otherwise your handlebars will suck heat so hast your left hand can be cold and your right hand sweating. I know, that means buying 2 sets of grips, but you can befriend a 4-wheeler person with a gift of the two smaller grips because 4-wheelers don't have throttle tubes.

[culcune]

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?
- Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?
- Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

I know Spud answered 'yes' to your questions, and there are a few bikes that have had this engine for a few years now. Here in the US, SSR Motorsports have been using the same engine for a few years now in their 250cc motocross bike http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/dirtbike/sr250s.html

The company Asiawing is the OEM for SSR's bike which is also sold into other countries under various brands. http://asiawing.com/english/index.asp

One of those obscure (at least for us) European manufacturers uses the same engine, but apparently manufactures their own bike. Someone can remind me what the brand is...

The reason I mention this is that this engine has been sorted out for a little while now, so it is not 'untested'

[fishman10]

Let me just say after a day of the real maiden voyage, i like the bike alot ,having the the same issue finding nuetral, but not a huge deal,,,,,but man if it was a 450cc ,i would be totally s.mitten!!!If zongshen /csc comes out with a 450 , Im buying it. i will look forward to some performance upgrades to this platform,cause i just really like the fit and nimbleness,and handling!

[fishman10]

i hope someone finds a set that works on the stock bars.

[woodlandsprite]

i hope someone finds a set that works on the stock bars.

honestly, me too ;)

[AZRider]

You do know you will have to road trip to Yuma one of these weeks before it gets too hot...

All I need is an invitation and I'll clear my hectic calendar :lol:

I'm heading to Springfield, MO for a Spyder get together for the next couple of weeks, but I'm free after that.

[woodlandsprite]

having the the same issue finding nuetral, but not a huge deal,,,,,


AZrider George mentioned fixing his issue on another forum by adjusting the clutch

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57&sid=5fa2d114142f6856e321e0bc7b560079

[AZRider]

Were there any comments or questions from spectators?

Although I was parked between a couple of Adv bikes, I was lost in a sea of Harleys. I did notice several folks taking a very close look, but I like to look at other bikes when I'm at this get together, so didn't get the chance to speak to anybody.

[oldqwerty]

Let me just say after a day of the real maiden voyage, i like the bike alot ,having the the same issue finding nuetral, but not a huge deal,,,,,but man if it was a 450cc ,i would be totally s.mitten!!!If zongshen /csc comes out with a 450 , Im buying it. i will look forward to some performance upgrades to this platform,cause i just really like the fit and nimbleness,and handling!

There is a 300cc bore kit available for under $200. I'm tempted.

[SpudRider]

So with the limited miles you have put on the bike...
hows the vibration if any..... handle bars/foot pegs..
looks as if thats something i have to start concidering
now... As I now have carpal tunnel my XT660 gives my
right hand a real hard time..goes numbe in about
30mins of riding at 100kmph... 4000rpm is a real
bad vibration zone on the XT...

The engine is very smooth, and I have felt mimimal vibration at all speeds up to 88 mph, as indicated on the speedometer. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Some big cruisers and tourers have 1-inch handlebars under the controls. Pretty much everything else in the world is 7/8...

Thank you for correcting my error. I am almost completely ignorant of Harleys and the big cruisers, and these exceptions escaped my memory. ;)

...Are the stock bars aluminum or steel? If steel, with only a 1/2 inch hole, they would be very heavy. Tough as a tank, but way heavy. If there is that much material there I'll just tap some threads and drill the guards to match. Simple solution...

CSC reported the handlebars are aluminum. I just checked, and a magnet won't stick to them. They certainly seem to be aluminum to me. ;)

I just measured the hole in the handlebars; it is 12 mm in diameter. Tapping the hole to a 13 mm thread would certainly work. :tup:

...If anyone is installing grip heaters, wrap the left bar with friction tape to the approximate diameter of the throttle tube on the right. Then install the heater and a right side throttle diameter handgrip on the left. Otherwise your handlebars will suck heat so hast your left hand can be cold and your right hand sweating. I know, that means buying 2 sets of grips, but you can befriend a 4-wheeler person with a gift of the two smaller grips because 4-wheelers don't have throttle tubes.

That is an excellent tip. :tup:

[oldqwerty]

88mph? :hmm: Oh, come on. :lmao: It isn't even broken in yet. :crazy: You expect us to believe that? :p What did you do, ride it off a cliff? :tdown:


















88mph! :yay: :thanks: :hi:

By the way, how do the stock tires feel on pavement?

[SpudRider]

...One of those obscure (at least for us) European manufacturers uses the same engine, but apparently manufactures their own bike. Someone can remind me what the brand is...

The reason I mention this is that this engine has been sorted out for a little while now, so it is not 'untested'

The Gas Gas Cami 250, and the AJP PR5 also employ the ZS177MM/NC250 engine. Both bikes, and their engines, get excellent reviews. :) Indeed, I consider this engine to be a well proven success. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Let me just say after a day of the real maiden voyage, i like the bike alot ,having the the same issue finding nuetral, but not a huge deal,,,,,but man if it was a 450cc ,i would be totally s.mitten!!!If zongshen /csc comes out with a 450 , Im buying it. i will look forward to some performance upgrades to this platform,cause i just really like the fit and nimbleness,and handling!

I haven't had any problems finding neutral, whatsover. :) However, I never try to shift to neutral while moving. :shrug:

[SpudRider]

i hope someone finds a set that works on the stock bars.

honestly, me too ;)

Given Qwerty's excellent suggestion to tap the holes inside the handlebars, I am going to see if the Tusk D-Flex handguards meet the other fitment requirements. ;)

[SpudRider]

AZrider George mentioned fixing his issue on another forum by adjusting the clutch

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57&sid=5fa2d114142f6856e321e0bc7b560079

The clutch lever of my RX3 did have excessive play in the cable when it arrived. I adjusted the lever for the proper amount of free play before my first ride, and I haven't had any problems whatsover finding neutral while stopped. ;)

[SpudRider]

88mph? :hmm: Oh, come on. :lmao: It isn't even broken in yet. :crazy: You expect us to believe that? :p What did you do, ride it off a cliff? :tdown: ...

:lmao:

...88mph! :yay: :thanks: :hi:

By the way, how do the stock tires feel on pavement?

My friend Andy is a professional mechanic with over 30 years of experience. He told me he believes it doesn't make any difference how you break in an engine. :shrug: After learning the Zongshen factory runs each bike to 90 mph on a dynamometer at the factory, I decided not to baby my RX3 engine during the break in process. ;) Indeed, a lot of guys advocate a hard engine break in, and they seem to get excellent results. ;) Therefore, I have merely been modifying the engine rpms, and I have ridden the bike on the interstate at full throttle. ;)

The speedometer is probably still at least 10 percent 'optimistic,' but I have cruised at 84 mph, and actually reached 88 mph on a short, slightly downhill stretch of pavement. The stock tires feel great at all speeds on pavement, and the bike always feels stable and well planted. This bike is a lot of fun to ride. :tup:

[detours]

I know Spud answered 'yes' to your questions, and there are a few bikes that have had this engine for a few years now. Here in the US, SSR Motorsports have been using the same engine for a few years now in their 250cc motocross bike http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/dirtbike/sr250s.html

The company Asiawing is the OEM for SSR's bike which is also sold into other countries under various brands. http://asiawing.com/english/index.asp

One of those obscure (at least for us) European manufacturers uses the same engine, but apparently manufactures their own bike. Someone can remind me what the brand is...

The reason I mention this is that this engine has been sorted out for a little while now, so it is not 'untested'

There are several branded RX3s around the world, like the M1nsk (Byelarus), and the Honley (UK), plus distribution in China, Chile, Peru, Argentina and Brazil under the Zongshen name.

Here are a few other bikes that use the NC250/ZS177MM engine:


AJP PR5 (http://motoajp.com/ajp-enduros/pr5-enduro/) - fuel injected, manufactured in Portugal, sold in US
Apachi Cross XZ250RM (http://www.motosiklet.net/forum/marka-ve-model-kiyaslamalari/111076-apachi-xz250rm-cross-on-on-road.html) - sold in Turkey I think
Megelli 250R (http://www.extrememotorsales.com/Megelli_250R_Sport_Motorcycle.htm)
And this sportbike from alibaba (http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/250cc-forceful-zongshen-engine-motorcycles-racing_1997068918.html)

[pete]

88mph? :hmm: Oh, come on. :lmao: It isn't even broken in yet. :crazy: You expect us to believe that? :p What did you do, ride it off a cliff? :tdown:




















A thing of the passed...

88mph isn't bad for a 250 pushing that much weight on a tight motor...

[oldqwerty]

Thank you for correcting my error. I am almost completely ignorant of Harleys and the big cruisers, and these exceptions escaped my memory. ;)



CSC reported the handlebars are aluminum. I just checked, and a magnet won't stick to them. They certainly seem to be aluminum to me. ;)

I just measured the hole in the handlebars; it is 12 mm in diameter. Tapping the hole to a 13 mm thread would certainly work. :tup:



That is an excellent tip. :tup:

Hey, we have to watch out for one another. Those S. O. B. (Some Other Brand) riders will start all that not waving at Chinese bikes crap.

I've never heard of a 13mm bolt. 12 and 14, yes, but not 13. Hmmm? Guess what size hole needs to be to tap for a 14-2 bolt! Yup, 12mm. Hold on a sec. ... ... ... Okay, I just ordered two taps off eBay. Once I've tapped my bars I'll mail a tap to anyone who needs one as long as they promise to pass the tool one to another Cyclone rider.

Oh, wait! Will the end of the guard have enough material to take a 14mm hole?


If not, I have some thread inserts that go into about a 12mm hole and they came from Advance. Advance just might lend the tools to install. If memory serves, the inserts are less than $10.

[oldqwerty]

A thing of the passed...

88mph isn't bad for a 250 pushing that much weight on a tight motor...
:hehe:

[woodlandsprite]

Once I've tapped my bars I'll mail a tap to anyone who needs one as long as they promise to pass the tool one to another Cyclone rider.

.

Qwerty, sign me up. I'm going to want hand guards on the bike sooner rather than later. I don't want to have to practice changing levers out in the event that I drop the bike.

Looks like taps are done manually? Do I need to get my hands on a T handle?. I see I'll be augmenting my tool box on account of this adventure :P

[oldqwerty]

Qwerty, sign me up. I'm going to want hand guards on the bike sooner rather than later. I don't want to have to practice changing levers out in the event that I drop the bike.

Looks like taps are done manually? Do I need to get my hands on a T handle?. I see I'll be augmenting my tool box on account of this adventure :P

Let's wait for SpudRider's take on whether or not there is enough material to handle the 14mm hole, and if the rest of the kit will fit. Then we will go from there.

[woodlandsprite]

Let's wait for SpudRider's take on whether or not there is enough material to handle the 14mm hole, and if the rest of the kit will fit. Then we will go from there.

Most wise. Thank you for offering to share the tap around in any case!

[Veteran]

There is a 300cc bore kit available for under $200. I'm tempted.

That's why I was asking questions about the engine; I plan on buying the big bore kit from Aliexpress and was considering buying a complete spare ZS177MM to experiment on. That way I don't pooch up the stock motor. If it worked out ok, I'd install it on both bikes, (which admittedly, although fully paid for, I won't see them until Mid-August)

250cc is fine for me but I'm a tinkerer at heart.

[SpudRider]

There is a 300cc bore kit available for under $200. I'm tempted.

Do you have a link to share for the 300cc bore kit?

Personally, I wouldn't alter the engine until after the two-year warranty had expired, but I would love to see the kit. ;)

[rjmorel]

try this link Spud,
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Big-bore-kit-change-250CC-ATV-parts-Quad-parts-to-300CC/501791_746771916.html

I wonder how much tinkering you'd have to do to get the FI to run good when installing this kit. Seems very reasonable price wise.


Ryan called me today to let me know my Yellow RX3 will ship next Monday or Tues. WooHooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! rj

[SpudRider]

...I've never heard of a 13mm bolt. 12 and 14, yes, but not 13. Hmmm? Guess what size hole needs to be to tap for a 14-2 bolt! Yup, 12mm. Hold on a sec. ... ... ... Okay, I just ordered two taps off eBay. Once I've tapped my bars I'll mail a tap to anyone who needs one as long as they promise to pass the tool one to another Cyclone rider...

Okay, I should have said greater than 12 mm. :p

:hehe:

I might have a 14-2 metric tap. If not, put me on the list. :)

...Oh, wait! Will the end of the guard have enough material to take a 14mm hole?...

Yes, the aluminum guard will accommodate a 14mm hole. The guard is 20mm wide, and 10mm thick. The question is whether the guard can take a hit, without breaking, if you drill a 14mm hole in it. ;)

...If not, I have some thread inserts that go into about a 12mm hole and they came from Advance. Advance just might lend the tools to install. If memory serves, the inserts are less than $10.

If one needs to spend about $20 for inserts and shipping, I would rather spend $40 for a black, Tusk Chub handlebar, and keep the stock handlebar for a spare. ;)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/947/19027/Tusk-Chub-1-1-8%22-Big-Bar?term=aluminum%20handlebars%20tusk%20t-10

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_han_chu_big_bar_blk.jpg

After playing with the fitment a little, I think the potential problems revolve around two issues.

1) The handguards must not contact the windshield at full rotation of the handlebars. After an initial inspection, I think the handguards will need to be bent back towards the handlebars to meet this criterion.

2) The stock levers will definitely need to be castrated. That is, the balls on the end of the levers will need to be cut off. I've done this before, and its not a problem. Your hands won't slip off the levers when they are contained inside handguards. ;)

I also noticed the Chinese, big bar handlebars taper much more quickly than usual. Therefore, I think the Tusk Big Bar Adapters are not needed for the stock handlebars. I think one can install the handguards with the regular adapaters which are included with the D-Flex handguards. :) I will test this fitment to confirm, or deny my assessment. ;)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_alu_han_gua.jpg

[SpudRider]

try this link Spud,
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Big-bore-kit-change-250CC-ATV-parts-Quad-parts-to-300CC/501791_746771916.html

I wonder how much tinkering you'd have to do to get the FI to run good when installing this kit. Seems very reasonable price wise.


Ryan called me today to let me know my Yellow RX3 will ship next Monday or Tues. WooHooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! rj

Thanks for the link. :) One would also need a larger cylinder head, wouldn't he?

Congratulations on the pending shipment of your RX3 motorcycle. :tup:

[rjmorel]

Thanks for the link. :) One would also need a larger cylinder head, wouldn't he?:tup:

Never thought about needing a larger cylinder head.
I'm no rocket scientist but I'm thinking if you just used that kit and stock head it would give you a more tractable mild power? A larger piston surface area for more power ,but sending the same amount of fuel through the same head, valves and FI and exhaust ??? Would it also lower the compression ? Maybe one of you more knowledgeable persons can explain what it would do to the motor power wise. Kinda above my pay grade , rj

[SpudRider]

I took my second ride in the dirt on my Zongshen RX3. Therefore, I have added an update containing my further impressions of the off road handling of the bike, which is discussed in my ride report thread, located at the following link.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=183552&posted=1#post183552

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3275_zpswopbq0hb.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3300_zpsh47ywjox.jpg

[SpudRider]

If you wish, you can also view more photographs of my ride at the following link. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=183552&posted=1#post183552

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3264_zpsnwwopsnv.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3251_zpsbnjhoc8h.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3229_zpsteoabzkb.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3322_zpslmed9hip.jpg

[fishman10]

Hey wheres your engine guard and luggage?? ,not goint to install them? I went ahead and put them all on except substituting the stock trunk for my jc whitney one,,,cause mine will only see state forest fire roads ,but mostly commuting. Now bear in mind I LIKE this bike,,,But i do wish it had a bit more ,,it acts as if the exhaust is really clogged up,,,hope some performance upgrades come along ,,,,but should be able to ride to work for about $7.50 all week!!!! that being said i did go from a 1450cc harley softail to this ,,so some adjustment is needed ,,,lol

[SpudRider]

Fish,

I will be installing the rest of the luggage pretty soon. I first wanted to see how the bike handled without it. ;) Right now, I don't plan to install the engine guards. I don't think they are necessary, and they weigh a lot. I suggest you remove the engine guards, and see if the bike has a little more pep. ;)

[oldqwerty]

try this link Spud,
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Big-bore-kit-change-250CC-ATV-parts-Quad-parts-to-300CC/501791_746771916.html

I wonder how much tinkering you'd have to do to get the FI to run good when installing this kit. Seems very reasonable price wise.

No tinkering at all. EFI adjusts all by itself to such relatively minor mods. Well, the MicroSquirt on my TW did once the basic fuel map was developed. Since reports are the Cyclone EFI works quite well I figure the basic fuel map is well programmed. YMMV

Never thought about needing a larger cylinder head.
I'm no rocket scientist but I'm thinking if you just used that kit and stock head it would give you a more tractable mild power? A larger piston surface area for more power ,but sending the same amount of fuel through the same head, valves and FI and exhaust ??? Would it also lower the compression ? Maybe one of you more knowledgeable persons can explain what it would do to the motor power wise. Kinda above my pay grade , rj

I'll have a better idea once my Cyclone is broken in, but based on the reports I've heard a 300cc engine with no other changes will lose top end and gain low and mid range. A "larger" head will not be required, but I'd definitely chamfer the head to match the bore of the cylinder and new head gasket to limit the possibility of a warm edge in the combustion chamber that could cause preignition (ping). When (not if, unless a ~400cc version of equal value becomes available) I do one of these engines, I'll chamfer the combustion chamber, look at unshrouding the valves if needed, and clean up the ports and valve guides. No porting. The result is "free" torque at all engine speeds that comes from improved efficiency that reduces parasitic drag from air flow restrictions. The result is lower engine loads, a cooler running engine, and better fuel efficiency.

A mild cam would maybe shift the powerband higher, but that may not be the answer. I've run across a few engines over the years that a cam change made a slower engine because intake and exhaust restrictions limited air flow. That's really a blessing because intakes and exhausts are usually cheaper and easier than all the auxiliary components that accompany a cam install. A good example is the 2.2 in the late '90s S10s and S15s. Cold air intake, bored throttle body, coil packs, power pulleys, chip, and a decent set of headers and freer flowing exhaust turned these engines into 7000rpm Honda killers. With the stock cam. These bolt-ons in a ZQ8 suspended 2.2 5-speed truck with sticky performance tires pretty easily embarrass stock Mustang GTs and Z28s in parking lot events. Even a few 'Vettes and European hotrods fall to a well-driven 4-banger pickup truck. Even with the stock cam. Great fun on the street, too, because power improves from idle on up.

On the other hand, Yamaha did such a good job on the TW200 intake and exhaust it takes internal engine mods to make any appreciable gains across the power band. Cam and springs is the best bang for the buck on this engine. Larger displacement, major head work, and a bigger carb are necessary before there's much gain to be had from intake and exhaust mods, but if you put in enough cam at 200cc to need intake and exhaust mods your powerband will be so narrow that the rpm drop between 3/4 and 4/5 shifts will be so bad the engine wound to redline won't be in the power band after the shift, resulting in a very slow accelerating bike on the highway. The only cure is a 6-speed trans conversion using TT230 R or XT225 parts.

I haven't started investigating performance mods for this engine. I expect there are plenty because lots of other bikes and wheelers use this engine, all over the world. Anywho, on paper and from ride reports the Cyclone performs about the same as my TW adventure bike build. I expect to be happy with the Cyclone stock. If I feel the engine's stock power band is too high in the RPM range, a 300cc bore kit would be a rather elegant solution.

[pete]

Hey, we have to watch out for one another. Those S. O. B. (Some Other Brand) riders will start all that not waving at Chinese bikes crap.

I've never heard of a 13mm bolt. 12 and 14, yes, but not 13. Hmmm? Guess what size hole needs to be to tap for a 14-2 bolt! Yup, 12mm. Hold on a sec. ... ... ... Okay, I just ordered two taps off eBay. Once I've tapped my bars I'll mail a tap to anyone who needs one as long as they promise to pass the tool one to another Cyclone rider.

Oh, wait! Will the end of the guard have enough material to take a 14mm hole?


If not, I have some thread inserts that go into about a 12mm hole and they came from Advance. Advance just might lend the tools to install. If memory serves, the inserts are less than $10.

not seen a 13mm bolt....
but 1/2" is 12.7mm

[SpudRider]

not seen a 13mm bolt....
but 1/2" is 12.7mm

My goodness, yes! We should tap the hole for a 1/2-inch thread! Thanks, Pete. :tup:

[rjmorel]

" The result is "free" torque at all engine speeds that comes from improved efficiency that reduces parasitic drag from air flow restrictions. The result is lower engine loads, a cooler running engine, and better fuel efficiency."

oldqwerty, That's what my gut feeling was and you exclaimed it so eloquently. Seems like a win win situation. rj

[oldqwerty]

" The result is "free" torque at all engine speeds that comes from improved efficiency that reduces parasitic drag from air flow restrictions. The result is lower engine loads, a cooler running engine, and better fuel efficiency."

oldqwerty, That's what my gut feeling was and you exclaimed it so eloquently. Seems like a win win situation. rj

It is win win. It's when one wants to "hop up" that the troubles start. Nothing wrong with hop-ups, I own a few myself, but they aren't daily drivers daily riders. I have a HIGHLY modified TW200 that runs with any of the Japanese 250cc street bikes including the CBR and Ninja through the rolling hills of west Tennessee and Kentucky. I expect it to blow up every time I turn the key on. So far I've been disappointed. It sure is fun, though.

[rjmorel]

Joe posted this Honda , "How to ride motorcycles 1962 "over on the CSC Blog . Pretty sure Honda hire alien "OH" from the movie "Home" to write it for them. :) rj

" I has many motorcycle friends. Can I come into the out now and ride amongst them? It should hover much better now. if you do not let me go , then I will shoot forth the lasers from my eyeballs. I has many friends. Look I has found our car. Do not eat the blue mints or drink the lemonade"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLGDJkhYnVc

[SpudRider]

That's funny. :lol:

Returning home from my last ride on the RX3, I got a flat rear tire about 4 miles from home. :ohno: This morning I changed the rear tire, and discovered I did not have a puncture flat. The inner tube in my rear tire had a very small cut, the size of a pin prick. The cut was on the top of the inner tube, next to the rim. The rim strip was in excellent shape, as was the rim itself. I surmise either the inner tube was bad, or it was damaged when installed at the factory. :shrug:

I seized this opportunity to install a new inner tube, and a new, Shinko, 244 rear tire in size 5.10-17. Today the weather was overcast, and threatening to rain. Nevertheless, I went for a ride to test the tire. I got a little cold and wet, but I had a fun ride. The Shinko, 244 rear tire did a great job. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3330_zpshxzaqjdf.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3330_zpshxzaqjdf.jpg.html)

[MICRider]

That's funny. :lol:

Returning home from my last ride on the RX3, I got a flat rear tire about 4 miles from home. :ohno: This morning I changed the rear tire, and discovered I did not have a puncture flat. The inner tube in my rear tire had a very small cut, the size of a pin prick. The cut was on the top of the inner tube, next to the rim. The rim strip was in excellent shape, as was the rim itself. I surmise either the inner tube was bad, or it was damaged when installed at the factory. :shrug:

I seized this opportunity to install a new inner tube, and a new, Shinko, 244 rear tire in size 5.10-17. Today the weather was overcast, and threatening to rain. Nevertheless, I went for a ride to test the tire. I got a little cold and wet, but I had a fun ride. The Shinko, 244 rear tire did a great job. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3330_zpshxzaqjdf.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3330_zpshxzaqjdf.jpg.html)

Looks better with a knobby on it anyway ;)

[Adjuster]

Watch out for the skid demon!!! :lmao:


LOL the skid demon has gotten me a few times.



/

[SpudRider]

Looks better with a knobby on it anyway ;)

Thanks, Stew. :) I agree. ;)

[Veteran]

After looking at that kit from several angles, I'm not convinced that kit's for an NC250/ZS177MM. It does say it's for a Zongshen 250cc water cooled engine, but the cylinder head water jacket pattern, gaskets, and piston don't appear to match the ones they stock that they are showing for the stock NC250. Plus, I can't find anywhere, where it says it's for an NC250.

There's another kit too that's for a Zongshen CB250 that is def different.

I don't know how many models of water cooled Zongshen 250's there are and maybe I'm wrong, but I'm thinking this won't fit our model engine afterall.

The other thing that I question is why is the stock cylinder costs approx $270 without gaskets and piston and yet this kit is only $180 with those items???

If anyone knows different, please jump in here.

[jezzrite]

SpudRider, how do you rate the performance of the 15 inch knobby that came stock with your 200 Sierra? Is it good for, say, 100 miles of pavement at 70-80 mph? Should be a good fit for my RS3/RX3.

I'm planning to buy a set from TaoBao for the loose gravel/dirt/mountainous/logging trail for about 100 miles of journey.

[SpudRider]

SpudRider, how do you rate the performance of the 15 inch knobby that came stock with your 200 Sierra? Is it good for, say, 100 miles of pavement at 70-80 mph? Should be a good fit for my RS3/RX3.

I'm planning to buy a set from TaoBao for the loose gravel/dirt/mountainous/logging trail for about 100 miles of journey.

Yes, the 15-inch knobby tire for the Zongshen Sierra 200 is a very good tire, and it will fit the 15-inch rear wheel of your KTN RS3. :) This tire is good for thousands of miles riding on pavement at 70-80 mph. :tup: Here is a link to the tire at Taobao.com.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.145.1ULzFQ&id=21026704083&ns=1&abbucket=4#detail

http://img04.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i4/1019102040/T2SOImXaRbXXXXXXXX_!!1019102040.jpg

[jezzrite]

Yes, the 15-inch knobby tire for the Zongshen Sierra 200 is a very good tire, and it will fit the 15-inch rear wheel of your KTN RS3. :) This tire is good for thousands of miles riding on pavement at 70-80 mph. :tup: Here is a link to the tire at Taobao.com.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.145.1ULzFQ&id=21026704083&ns=1&abbucket=4#detail

http://img04.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i4/1019102040/T2SOImXaRbXXXXXXXX_!!1019102040.jpg

Thanks Spud. If all goes well, might make the knobbies as a permanent daily driver for my Zong (Zong sounds much better than KTN RS3:D) . :thanks:

[oldqwerty]

SpudRider, be very careful with your mismatched tires. If you slide in the dirt now you're looking at about a 96.789% chance it will be a front end washout. That would suck.

[Mudflap]

Looks like the Cheng Shin tire that was factory installed on my Lifan and Zongshen (Roketa). I like them but couldn't find new ones after CST stopped exporting DOT tires to the US.

[SpudRider]

SpudRider, be very careful with your mismatched tires. If you slide in the dirt now you're looking at about a 96.789% chance it will be a front end washout. That would suck.

Thanks for the warning. :) Soon I am going to mount the same tire on the front wheel. In the meanwhile I don't plan to slide. :hehe:

[SpudRider]

Looks like the Cheng Shin tire that was factory installed on my Lifan and Zongshen (Roketa). I like them but couldn't find new ones after CST stopped exporting DOT tires to the US.

Yes, it is exactly the same tread pattern as the old Cheng Shin C858 tire. ;)

[oldqwerty]

Thanks for the warning. :) Soon I am going to mount the same tire on the front wheel. In the meanwhile I don't plan to slide. :hehe:

I didn't plan to slide, but I learned the hard way to always have the stickiest traction on the front. Three times.

[SpudRider]

I didn't plan to slide, but I learned the hard way to always have the stickiest traction on the front. Three times.

Amen! If the front is planted, the rear can fishtail a little and you will remain upright. :tup: However, if the front locks up or slips, you are going to fall instantly, usually without any warning. :ohno:

The Shinko, 244 front tire is on order, and I plan to ride conservatively until it arrives. :)

[fishman10]

adjusted the clutch a little ,nuetral easier to find now, the stock tread is about perfect for me as i only usually ride pavement and gravel state forest roads,so i need to find something like them,,the more i ride it the more i like this bike!!!tried to get some photos and the batteries were dead in cam, dang it.

[Belamoto]

Is it just me or does anyone else find it a little annoying that the side stand doesn't stay down on its own? Maybe I'm too used to my BMW but that does have an idiot switch.

[detours]

Can anyone with an RX3 confirm if there is a hole in the triple tree suitable for a triple lift like this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-ZX6R-ZX10R-ZX14-Head-Lift-Stand-Triple-Tree-Motorcycle-Headlift-/251305850930)?

If it has a pin hole, size is the next question, if anyone knows how to measure it.

[pete]

Is it just me or does anyone else find it a little annoying that the side stand doesn't stay down on its own? Maybe I'm too used to my BMW but that does have an idiot switch.

My GasGas had a stand like that... After it fell
over a few times I remembered about it...
but yer a real pain in the a$$

[Belamoto]

Can anyone with an RX3 confirm if there is a hole in the triple tree suitable for a triple lift like this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-ZX6R-ZX10R-ZX14-Head-Lift-Stand-Triple-Tree-Motorcycle-Headlift-/251305850930)?

If it has a pin hole, size is the next question, if anyone knows how to measure it.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-triple.jpg

Don't have calipers handy but a quick check with measuring tape puts it at about 15mm.

[dieselrider]

Is it just me or does anyone else find it a little annoying that the side stand doesn't stay down on its own? Maybe I'm too used to my BMW but that does have an idiot switch.

you might have an isolated issue...it's the first I've heard of it...mine stays down on it's own.

[Belamoto]

you might have an isolated issue...it's the first I've heard of it...mine stays down on it's own.

Does this look right to you? I suspect not. I'm sure the CSC guys would have sorted out any issues like this before shipping theirs but this RX3 came straight from the Zongshen factory.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-stand.jpg

[detours]

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-triple.jpg

Don't have calipers handy but a quick check with measuring tape puts it at about 15mm.

Thank you!

[fishman10]

<a href="http://s948.photobucket.com/user/fishman10/media/IMG_0634.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/ad328/fishman10/IMG_0634.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0634.jpg"/></a>

[fishman10]

dang it didnt work

[fishman10]

http://i948.photobucket.com/albums/ad328/fishman10/IMG_0634.jpg (http://s948.photobucket.com/user/fishman10/media/IMG_0634.jpg.html)

[dieselrider]

Does this look right to you? I suspect not. I'm sure the CSC guys would have sorted out any issues like this before shipping theirs but this RX3 came straight from the Zongshen factory.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-stand.jpg

I left my bike at my office today because it started raining/sleeting...I'll look tomorrow, and let you know, but that doesn't look familiar to me.

[SpudRider]

Is it just me or does anyone else find it a little annoying that the side stand doesn't stay down on its own? Maybe I'm too used to my BMW but that does have an idiot switch.

Does this look right to you? I suspect not. I'm sure the CSC guys would have sorted out any issues like this before shipping theirs but this RX3 came straight from the Zongshen factory.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-stand.jpg

Your side stand is different from the one we received in the United States. My side stand employs one spring, and it doesn't have the crescent-shaped piece of metal. Also, the mounting pins for the spring are in different locations. I think forum member Katflap, in England, has a side stand similar to yours, and he modified it to make it work. If you search this thread for his post, you can find his solution. I don't have any problems with the side stand on my RX3 which was delivered to the United States.

[SpudRider]

Belamoto,

Here is a link to the post by Katflap which describes how he altered his side stand to make to work better. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=179115&postcount=1726

[Belamoto]

Belamoto,

Here is a link to the post by Katflap which describes how he altered his side stand to make to work better. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=179115&postcount=1726

Thanks Spud - appreciate that.

[SpudRider]

Thanks Spud - appreciate that.

You're welcome. :)

[Mag00]

Does this look right to you? I suspect not. I'm sure the CSC guys would have sorted out any issues like this before shipping theirs but this RX3 came straight from the Zongshen factory.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-stand.jpg

Looks like the kick stand pivot bolt is in backwards and the spring should be hooked to the peg. Might need a longer spring, might just have to really stretch that one.

Does your bike have the kick stand safety switch? When the bolt is turned around, the switch would operate off of or connect to that bolt/pin on the pivot bolt.

You may have to keep that piece on the spring, but getting the peg out of the way so it can travel to the over center line will make the stand stay down.

[Belamoto]

Looks like the kick stand pivot bolt is in backwards and the spring should be hooked to the peg. Might need a longer spring, might just have to really stretch that one.

Does your bike have the kick stand safety switch? When the bolt is turned around, the switch would operate off of or connect to that bolt/pin on the pivot bolt.

You may have to keep that piece on the spring, but getting the peg out of the way so it can travel to the over center line will make the stand stay down.

Thanks Mag00 - not sure about a safety switch but will have a play around.

[katflap]

Does this look right to you? I suspect not. I'm sure the CSC guys would have sorted out any issues like this before shipping theirs but this RX3 came straight from the Zongshen factory.

http://belamoto.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rx3-stand.jpg

It turns out that these days in the UK if I new bike isn't fitted with a kill switch on the side stand then the side stand has to be self retracting. Maybe it's the same for you in NZ.

Spud has provided the link to my post of how I solved the problem, :tup:

but before you dig out the angle grinder to cut the bolt, try just turning the bolt around and the kidney shape metal tab that the springs are attached to.
This should do the trick :tup:

I cut my side stand bolt in a fit of anger >:( straight after I dropped my bike :cry: because of the pesky side stand retracting

:)

[Belamoto]

It turns out that these days in the UK if I new bike isn't fitted with a kill switch on the side stand then the side stand has to be self retracting. Maybe it's the same for you in NZ.

Thanks katflap - makes sense now. We brought in an EU typed RX3 so I suspect our sidestand is a bit of a bodge to make it compliant. Will have a play around (the non-angry option) and see how that works out.

[Huck369]

Howdy, been out of town for a few days, finally back and tinkering with my Cyclone....

Has anyone installed some wrap around hand guards?

I bought a set that I hoped would work, the mounts will work on the bars, the problem is, I mounted the Power Outlet Accessory kit tonight (Thanks CSC) and test fit the hand guards....the mounts will work on the tapered bars, so I "could" mount them on the bars, BUT...the brake line comes out the front of the master cylinder, and interferes with the guards...and the Hand Guards will slightly touch the dash at full lock, and would break off anything that was plugged into either of the power ports in the accessories kit....so back to square one on the guards, unless someone has found some that will work...

So, post up some pics if you have some mounted...

[woodlandsprite]

hey Huck, does this mean the handguards you bought are a no go even if you didn't have the accessory kit mounted?

[Miqueas]

Can someone take photos or video from their radiator vents? I would like to see the direction they spin.

To compare them to mine.

I'm still having the problem of the righ vent heating and venting more, than the left. Getting all the right side very warm (my leg and passenger's)

I would apreciatte a lot if someone can put a video o at least tell me the direction it should spin, or flow the air from each vent.
Thanks!

[Huck369]

hey Huck, does this mean the handguards you bought are a no go even if you didn't have the accessory kit mounted?

I'm pretty sure I can get them to work...might require shimming the Brake lever side up a little to clear the Brake line, and it will probably "Just" touch the outer edge of the dash at full lock...but I plan on adding 1" risers to the bars, which should avoid that.

(Pic showing where contact would be made)

[woodlandsprite]

(Pic showing where contact would be made)

ah - I see what you mean - there's an awful lot of stuff going on on that right side.

I'm still hoping to hear there is a set that goes on without modification, but I'm starting to fear that I might be waiting a while to discover such a set!

[jimjr21]

Let me just say after a day of the real maiden voyage, i like the bike alot ,having the the same issue finding nuetral, but not a huge deal,,,,,but man if it was a 450cc ,i would be totally s.mitten!!!If zongshen /csc comes out with a 450 , Im buying it. i will look forward to some performance upgrades to this platform,cause i just really like the fit and nimbleness,and handling!

I am working on performance upgrades.
Big bore kit
valves
cams
will be testing other items as well

[oldqwerty]

I am working on performance upgrades.
Big bore kit
valves
cams
will be testing other items as well

Have you been able to find performance parts?

[jimjr21]

Have you been able to find performance parts?
I am making or having them made.

[oldqwerty]

I am making or having them made.

I wonder if there is room for a stroker crank. That's where the best low speed and midrange gains are found. I'm not going to hotrod an engine that already has enough power to get the job done, especially on a bike that will be used mainly for overnight and day rides on pavement near home, especially since I built a 267cc 6-speed TW200 adventure bike a couple years ago and a 276cc TW200 café racer last year. The main reason I ordered a Cyclone is to limit the lazy cruising miles on the TWs. With the Cyclone taking most of the miles, the adventure TW can be better outfitted for unimproved roads, and the café TW can be peaked for hooliganism. I would prefer a UJM styled street bike for what I'll be doing with the Cyclone, but Suzuki and Yamaha want way too much money for bikes that would require another $1500 in accessories that are already on the Cyclone.

I expect the Cyclone will run about the same as the TW267 on pavement (judging by ride reports) but off pavement the TW's traction and tuned suspension will pass the Cyclone on the outside at will, and the TW, with it's big, aggressive front tire and double front discs, will run way further into corners before needing to back off than the Cyclone. There will be no contest in sand or mud, where the TW's 2-inch wider rear tire will still be driving long after the Cyclone, and everything else, is buried.

My TW276 will walk away from a Cyclone. Half again the horsepower, 140 pounds lighter, and a much smaller frontal area when the rider tucks in. This bike has been clocked at 94mph, at redline, about 7/8 throttle, flat ground, no wind, by a certified police laser. I've since changed the sprocket ratio to redline at 88 to keep first gear more tractable as this engine does not have much off-idle torque off the line. I expect with the right sprockets and a fairing this bike will top 100mph. It has no problem working through a pack of 250cc Japanese and Chinese "sport bikes" on any road with enough curves they can't just wind 'em up, and these are riders who weight 80-90 pounds less than I do. Even the Ninja 300s fall to the mighty Pirate in the curves, except for this one 87-pound whisp of a girl who actually knows how to ride. I can keep up with her, but can't pass her unless she makes a mistake, which is rare. I expect this engine to explode every time I fire it up.

[Weldangrind]

Oldqwerty, you continue to tease us about your awesome TW's, but you never show us pics. Can you provide links to build threads on the TW forums?

I'm planning on a TW special, and I'm currently gathering parts for it. It will be in addition to my trusty TW dual sport.

[jimjr21]

Making a stroker crank is easy. Just go to a smaller crank pin diameter. However that is also a way to make it less reliable.
I will be looking for a reliable way to make a stroker crank. However it needs to be 3+mm or no go as power gain would be minimal for an expensive assembly.

[oldqwerty]

Oldqwerty, you continue to tease us about your awesome TW's, but you never show us pics. Can you provide links to build threads on the TW forums?

I'm planning on a TW special, and I'm currently gathering parts for it. It will be in addition to my trusty TW dual sport.

1) I don't do pics. I carry an ancient phone with no camera because it fits in my pocket and hasn't broken. I've bought 20 or more digital cameras over the years and they just get destroyed, lost, or stolen.

2) I'm very limited on upload speed and bandwidth with this wireless ISP in the truck. It usually takes an hour or more to upload a single picture to photobucket, IF I can get photobucket to load before timing out. I only get 10 hours between work days, and I sleep 8 of those.

3) I have ADHD, a very severe case. I get hyperfocused on a project, say, building an engine, and I block out every distraction, say, taking pictures. I work alone in a closed up shop with the mp3 player knocking techno instrumentals to drown out audio distractions. I intended to let my daughter take pictures while I worked--she was really good about staying out of my way and staying quiet while I worked--then sit down after each work session and let her type up the captions. No daughter, no pictures.

4) The TW builds ended up being therapy mourning my wife and daughter. Taking pictures for others' pleasure was at the bottom of my list of priorities. So much so I actually bought a camera and accessories to take pictures of the 267 build, then gave the camera, still unopened, to my son for Christmas two years later. I didn't even document the part numbers and sources I used so if anything ever breaks, I'm screwed. Due to the mental state of mourning I can't even remember the basics of what I did, like the bores and strokes of the engines or the tooth count of the sprockets.

5) Almost every mod on both bikes was stolen from someone else's ideas on the internet. The rest was just common sense and basic engine building. There are no secrets. Asian markets have a booming population of well built TWs. How many how-tos for 6-speed conversion, retrofitting the kicker, stroke, bore, headwork, etc., do we need? No need for me to create another. The only secret about finding out how to do these mods is to realize most anything done to a XT225 or TT230R engine can also be done to a TW. Lots of XT225 stroker builds at adv. xr100.com actually built TT230R engines up to 250cc and ~30hp and a carb and exhaust could be had with the kit. The 276's top end is VERY similar to the maxed out 250 engine from XR100.com because I bought a TT230R xr100.com engine off eBay and reverse engineered it, then added a tweek or two of my own., like a stroker crank and reverse cone megaphone exhaust.

5) The only trick parts are the EFI on the 267 ( http://www.useasydocs.com/index.html ) and the exhausts, which use the same tuning technologies as stock but are sized to cooperate with the other engine components that are carefully matched to insure everything works together to:

A) provide on the 267 a broad powerband that matches stock output at idle and enhances that TW puttability. You can be chugging along below idle in 6th gear (about 9mph), whack the throttle wide open, and the bike will smoothly accelerate to a top speed of 84mph. You see, the whole purpose of this build was to improve upon the highway capabilities of a loaded TW without ruining the stock TW character. At most any given road speed you can be in any of three different gears and it won't make much difference.

B) provide on the 276 all the peak power that can be had from a TW200 engine, the heck with the low speed and mid range. The powerband is so narrow I doubt the 4-5 shift of the stock TW trans would stay in it. If you are not in THE right gear when you whack the throttle, you aren't going anywhere. 91 octane (R+M)/2 required.

None of this is secret, even the exhaust tuning math can found on the internet. Fifty years experience building engines makes it a little easier for me, but EVERYTHING one needs to know is out there, free for the taking.

Just an FYI, I used a DT350 spark arrester to keep the 267 legal in national forests. No spark arrester on the 276. It's street only.

I've had all three of my TWs on a number of dynos. The stock bike properly jetted makes 12.7 to 15.0 hp and 9.8+ft/pounds. The 267 makes 19.9 to 23.5 hp and 15.3+ ft/lbs. The 276 makes 26.8 to 30.1 hp and 19.1+ ft/lbs. Depends on the dyno, ambient conditions, fuel quality, who is operating the dyno, how much air is in the rear tire, etc. E10 will cost you 15-20%.

Word of advice: Do not expect a ~25+hp engine to actually work with the wide ratios of the stock TW trans. Ain't gonna happen. Use the TT-R trans on a remachined TW countershaft. The 2-3 gap of the TT-R trans is a lot smaller than the 2-3 gap of the XT trans, about 4/5 the rpm drop. All the other gaps are about the same. In fact, 3rd through 6th are the same parts on both.

Also, don't do either engine build without sorting the brakes and suspension first. With so much more power and speed the stock brakes and suspension are inadequate.

There! I've given you all my sources. Happy hunting!

[oldqwerty]

Making a stroker crank is easy. Just go to a smaller crank pin diameter. However that is also a way to make it less reliable.
I will be looking for a reliable way to make a stroker crank. However it needs to be 3+mm or no go as power gain would be minimal for an expensive assembly.

I had an old guy who would press out the pin, weld up the holes, grind the welds smooth, redrill the holes, then press the assembly back together for $500. Unfortunately, he passed away last summer. I have to find a new machinist because I'm not that good.

[SpudRider]

Yesterday I drained the stock 'fish oil' from the forks, and installed 330 ml of Mobil1 Synthetic ATF. The stock fork oil was approximately 2.5W, and the Mobil1 Synthetic ATF is approximately 10W. Today I took a ride on pavement and dirt to test the fork oil. The improvement in fork rebound damping is very noticeable on all surfaces. :tup:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3335_zps6w50cbmj.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3335_zps6w50cbmj.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3333_zps2u6a7of4.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3333_zps2u6a7of4.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Today I also experimented with mounting the Tusk D-Flex Handguards to the stock handlebars on my Zongshen RX3. After switching to a spare, master brake cylinder for my Zongshen Sierra, I tried several different arrangements of the mounting hardware, and found success. :D

Today I ordered a set of black, D-Flex Handguards, and I plan to mount them tomorrow morning. Besides switching to a different master cylinder, I will also need to modify the handguards slightly. ;) I intend to shorten the handguards, and tap the end of the handlebars to accommodate a 1/2-inch bolt. Since I will be mounting the handguards nearer the end of the handlebars, I will also use the standard, 7/8-inch mounting hardware. ;)

Needless to say, I will take photographs of the finished installation, and I also plan to go for a test ride. :)

[SpudRider]

Quadz, the owner of these forums, has agreed to create a new forum here for the Zongshen RX3. :tup: He estimates the new forum will be created in the next few days, after which I will move all of the existing RX3 threads to the new forum. :)

[Weldangrind]

Oldqwerty, thank you for your guidance, and thank you for setting me straight.

[woodlandsprite]

After switching to a spare, master brake cylinder for my Zongshen Sierra, I tried several different arrangements of the mounting hardware, and found success. :D



Hey Spud, what was the reason for switching the master brake cylinder? Is it just more accomodating to the mounting hardware for the hand guards?

[SpudRider]

Hey Spud, what was the reason for switching the master brake cylinder? Is it just more accomodating to the mounting hardware for the hand guards?

Yes, using the stock master cylinder, the banjo bolt for the brake line projects into the handguard. The Zongshen master cylinder I substituted connects to the banjo bolt with the brake line parallel to the handguard. :) I will post some photographs in a few hours showing my handguard installation. ;)

[SpudRider]

Today I successfully installed a pair of Tusk D-Flex Handguards on my Zongshen RX3. :) I substituted a spare, master brake cylinder from my Zongshen Sierra for the stock, master brake cylinder of the RX3. ;)

Here are a few photographs of the new master cylinder, which show how the brake line is now installed parallel to the handguard.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3350_zpsze3iemyz.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3350_zpsze3iemyz.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3359_zpshijdh3mw.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3359_zpshijdh3mw.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3353_zps8r8owjzz.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3353_zps8r8owjzz.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3355_zpsqjddrw2d.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3355_zpsqjddrw2d.jpg.html)

Here are a few photographs showing how the D-Flex Handguards appear mounted on the motorcycle. I always install the D-Flex Handguards with spoilers. However, the spoilers are currently on back order until June 3. Therefore, I installed the handguards without spoilers, until I can order a pair of spoilers in June. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3344_zpskhzh5buo.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3344_zpskhzh5buo.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3373_zpsckf3otp9.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3373_zpsckf3otp9.jpg.html)

I will post an installation thread for these handguards in the near future. :)

[Weldangrind]

Excellent work-around, Spud.

[SpudRider]

Thank you, Weld. :)

[Miqueas]

My radiator
http://i.imgur.com/g6mXQbm.jpg


Radiator from the CSC blog (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15235)
http://i.imgur.com/XXsySJj.jpg


I see a difference between the bottom and the quantity of the liquid.
What do you say?

My problem is: right vent is active almost like 5 minutes from the engine to start. And really heat, all the right side.

[SpudRider]

Does your RX3 have a warranty? If so, I suggest you have the dealer inspect your bike. :) I don't see anything bad in your radiator photographs. :shrug:

[rjmorel]

Spuds, did you thread the end of the handle bar 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 to mount the hand guards? thanks, rj

[SpudRider]

Spuds, did you thread the end of the handle bar 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 to mount the hand guards? thanks, rj

I threaded the end of the handlebars with a 1/2-13 tap. The coarse threaded bolts are easier to find. Also, it is easier to install the 13 tpi bolt, since the bolt grabs the threads more easily. ;) I used 1-inch long bolts, but I still have a lot of thread available inside the handlebars. Therefore, I am going to install either 1-1/2 inch, or 2-inch long bolts. This installation is very strong; I am pleased with the results. :)

[pete]

Making a stroker crank is easy. Just go to a smaller crank pin diameter. However that is also a way to make it less reliable.
I will be looking for a reliable way to make a stroker crank. However it needs to be 3+mm or no go as power gain would be minimal for an expensive assembly.


How dose going to a smaller crank pin diameter increass the stroke ?
Stoke is the centre line of the crank pin & main journal X2
the Dia of either has no bearing on the stoke..
to increass the stroke you have to move the centre line of them
ferther apart...

[Miqueas]

Don't you think it has to less liquid?

http://i.imgur.com/2FMZxIS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rldhE9c.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DawqBIL.jpg



What about the oil level?

http://i.imgur.com/tpyZ7uv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dOXKAUv.jpg


I'm just regreting have bought this bike, the service center doesn't have a clue about this bike, I already take the bike to they, and they said it isn't anything wrong.

I have 330 km riden. My first oil change, and they made me use syntetic oil, now I'm reading I shouldn't use syntetic for the first oil change. My guess is they haven't remove and change the oil filter and oil strainers.

Is this gonna give me some trouble later, right? Any advice?

[pete]

Wouldn't be worryed about syntetic oil.....

Yamaha recomends Yamalube which is Motul 5100
syntetic 10/40 rebranded for them..








.

[fishman10]

i received my optionAl dash kit an was wondering. ,, while it looks pretty self explanatory , where does the relay go ?? Is it an addition or a just a heavier duty replacement for the existing one.And where is it located ? Thanks in advance

[jimjr21]

How dose going to a smaller crank pin diameter increass the stroke ?
Stoke is the centre line of the crank pin & main journal X2
the Dia of either has no bearing on the stoke..
to increass the stroke you have to move the centre line of them
ferther apart...

There are clearances from crankshaft and rod assembly to the surrounding case. These clearances have to be maintained.
So if you have a 24mm crank pin stock and switch to a 22mm pin. Keep the thickness of rod the same and the outside location of the pin the same the center line of the crank pin will move to a 2mm larger circle. Presto +2mm stroke.
Now clearances to head must be maintained. So you need a -1mm rod length center to center. But the real clearance issue happens at BDC where now the piston is 2mm further towards the crank and case. This is why sometimes you see spacer plates put into stroker kits to clearance piston to crank issues. But then you run into cam timing and cam chain length issues. Other ways around it are pistons with different pin heights to compensate with using a crank and rod setup that has pin in higher location than stock.

[Miqueas]

Wouldn't be worryed about syntetic oil.....

Yamaha recomends Yamalube which is Motul 5100
syntetic 10/40 rebranded for them..
.

I had used synthetic oil Motul 7100 10/40.
This is my first oil change at 340 KM.

Howvever I read on the CSC blog the first oil change should be not synthetic oil.

Another question. In your bikes the oil is visible from the circular hole in the motor? even with the up mark. Please check my oil level in my photos in my other post.

[SpudRider]

I had used synthetic oil Motul 7100 10/40.
This is my first oil change at 340 KM.

Howvever I read on the CSC blog the first oil change should be not synthetic oil.

Another question. In your bikes the oil is visible from the circular hole in the motor? even with the up mark. Please check my oil level in my photos in my other post.

Please reduce the size of your photos. They are difficult to view, and they slow the loading of the web page. Thank you.

[SpudRider]

i received my optionAl dash kit an was wondering. ,, while it looks pretty self explanatory , where does the relay go ?? Is it an addition or a just a heavier duty replacement for the existing one.And where is it located ? Thanks in advance

What items are in the optional dash kit? Why does it include a relay? :shrug:

[Huck369]

What items are in the optional dash kit? Why does it include a relay? :shrug:

The relay is for the USB port, to drop the voltage to 5 volts (I suspect it is a transformer, instead of a relay)

[SpudRider]

The relay is for the USB port, to drop the voltage to 5 volts (I suspect it is a transformer, instead of a relay)

Thanks, Huck. :)

[Huck369]

Thanks, Huck. :)

This was just my assumption...I have nothing to back that up....but would need something to drop the voltage....and the Lighter plug works without the "relay" plugged in, so it has to be for the USB plug

[SpudRider]

i received my optionAl dash kit an was wondering. ,, while it looks pretty self explanatory , where does the relay go ?? Is it an addition or a just a heavier duty replacement for the existing one.And where is it located ? Thanks in advance

Is this the item?

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.207.ajt11x&id=44096962402&ns=1&abbucket=4#detail

http://img04.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i4/524266847/TB2toxccXXXXXX_XpXXXXXXXXXX_!!524266847.jpg

http://img03.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i3/TB1BcfRGVXXXXcEXVXXXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg

[woodlandsprite]

Today I successfully installed a pair of Tusk D-Flex Handguards on my Zongshen RX3. :)

Nicely done Spud - I see you did have to shrink your levers to fit inside the guards too.

I look forward to seeing your installation thread, though I fear this might be a bit much for me to tackle with no other experience under my belt :) at least I have something to aspire to :D

[SpudRider]

Yesterday I went for a ride to test my suspension settings and handguards. Here are a few photos from that ride. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3336_zpsdbby5ef1.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3336_zpsdbby5ef1.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3348_zpscy6h00y6.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3348_zpscy6h00y6.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3342_zpstvpgg9on.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3342_zpstvpgg9on.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3340_zpsyc3fl7vk.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3340_zpsyc3fl7vk.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3373_zpsckf3otp9.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3373_zpsckf3otp9.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3346_zpsedwwjbgy.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3346_zpsedwwjbgy.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3367_zpsgtnnt7ky.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3367_zpsgtnnt7ky.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3364_zpsslxumvks.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3364_zpsslxumvks.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3370_zps9gpynev3.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3370_zps9gpynev3.jpg.html)

I believe I have optimized my suspension with the Mobil1 Synthetic ATF in the forks, and the shock rebound damping set at the #10 position. :) The handguards are strong, and well positioned. All controls worked well. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Nicely done Spud - I see you did have to shrink your levers to fit inside the guards too.

I look forward to seeing your installation thread, though I fear this might be a bit much for me to tackle with no other experience under my belt :) at least I have something to aspire to :D

Thank you. :) One of the things I like best about the RX3 is how well it is equipped in stock configuration. :tup: I don't like spending the time, let alone the money, to add all of the necessary equipment to a new bike. I never enjoy adding handguards to any motorcycle; I would rather be riding. Because of the new master cylinder, windshield clearance, et cetera, this job on the RX3 was a little more tedious than most. Fortunately, I only need to add heated grips, and my farkling of the RX3 is complete. :)

[woodlandsprite]

just a question on that handguard install - (I'm still holding out hope Barkbusters makes something work with CSC - I know they've been talking to each other) - is it always necessary to chop the end of the throttle grip off? I ask because I looked at the Barkbuster install on our other bike and the end of the grip seems intact and untouched.

[G19Tony]

Not because I'm racking up big miles. It was because I noticed the crankcase was COMPLETELY FULL! :wtf: I'm very disappointed in myself for not noticing before I did my first ride. I checked it, and it looked like it was at the top of the line. I looked again today, and there was oil clear to the top of the sight glass. :doh:

I'm confident no damage was done. I'm leaving it overnight to drain. When I pulled out the filters, it made quite a mess on the skid plate. I would recommend skid plate removal prior to oil drainage. :)

There was some fuzz on the magnetic drain plug, as expected. I'm going to cut the old filter open tomorrow and see what's going on. :tup:

[fishman10]

Yes spud,that looks like the electrical box that came with the dash. Where does it go? And also if any one knows how the revamped center stand spring mounts,let me know. Thx.

[detours]

Yesterday I went for a ride to test my suspension settings and handguards. Here are a few photos from that ride. :)

[URL=http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3336_zpsdbby5ef1.jpg.html]


Looking good, spud! But you are in serious need of a Shinko on the front. Are you getting the 19" wheel?

[Weldangrind]

Fortunately, I only need to add heated grips, and my farkling of the RX3 is complete. :)

Ha! I hereby challenge that notion.

:hehe:

[SpudRider]

just a question on that handguard install - (I'm still holding out hope Barkbusters makes something work with CSC - I know they've been talking to each other) - is it always necessary to chop the end of the throttle grip off? I ask because I looked at the Barkbuster install on our other bike and the end of the grip seems intact and untouched.

If the handguard attaches to the end of the handlebar, you must cut away the end of the throttle tube. ;)

[SpudRider]

Not because I'm racking up big miles. It was because I noticed the crankcase was COMPLETELY FULL! :wtf: I'm very disappointed in myself for not noticing before I did my first ride. I checked it, and it looked like it was at the top of the line. I looked again today, and there was oil clear to the top of the sight glass. :doh:

I'm confident no damage was done. I'm leaving it overnight to drain. When I pulled out the filters, it made quite a mess on the skid plate. I would recommend skid plate removal prior to oil drainage. :)

There was some fuzz on the magnetic drain plug, as expected. I'm going to cut the old filter open tomorrow and see what's going on. :tup:

Indeed, it is wise to remove the skid plate before changing the oil. :) You only need to remove three, 8mm bolts, and they are easily accessible. ;)

[SpudRider]

Yes spud,that looks like the electrical box that came with the dash. Where does it go? And also if any one knows how the revamped center stand spring mounts,let me know. Thx.

I'm guessing along the same lines as Huck. ;) I think you insert the 'converter' into the plug, then you connect the USB port into the 'converter.' If you have time, please post photos of the different components for the two power ports. :)

[SpudRider]

Ha! I hereby challenge that notion.

:hehe:

As usual, you are undoubtedly correct. ;)

:hehe: