Adding brake lights with 4-wire turn signals - Part 1

[detours]

I have a solution to our weak brake light ... add more brake lights

The idea is to replace our stock turn signals with a four wire version that has an integrated running light, turn signal and brake light. The outside half of the light is a flashing yellow turn signal. The inside is a red running light. When the brakes are applied, the red becomes brighter. The yellow continues to flash while the brakes are applied.

In Part 1, I install the new turn signals and connect the turn signal and ground wires. Part 2 ... connecting the running light and brake light ... will have to wait until my 3.5 mm bullet connectors arrive.

To do the hard part (signal installation), all you need is the 4-wire turn signal. It comes with a clear, smoke or red lens, and a black or chrome housing. But functionally they are all identical. I got the clear ones with black housing at this link ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162085844414

Or from the sellers page (need_for_parts) if this listing expires ...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/need_for_par...1&_ipg=&_from=

Or search for 'Motorcycle Integrated LED Turn Signals & Tail Light' in ebay.

The third pic compares the new signal to stock. They are nearly identical. The 4-wire module is slightly shorter, but has more LEDs inside. Its stem is also shorter and not as flexible. The wires terminate in 3.5mm bullet connectors just like our stock turn signals

Wire colors:

• Black = Ground
• Yellow = Yellow turn signal
• Red = Red brake light
• White = Red running light

Before you start working, test the new turn signals to make sure each light works. You can usually use a 9 volt battery. Or remove the bikes electrical panel and test them using the constant power brown + and green ground license plate wires. Plug in black to green and then touch yellow, red and white to brown one at a time.

[detours]

Although you can see the turn signal mounts, I couldn't find a way to unbolt them without removing the tail assembly.

First, remove the easy parts. I forgot to take pics of this part, but it's pretty simple.

1. Remove both seats.
2. Remove the top box by undoing 3 bolts under the foam liner.
3. Remove the passenger grab handle by undoing the 2 side bolts and 1 top bolt. Be careful not to scratch the rear body panels.

[detours]

Now remove the main bolts of the tail assembly and the rear body panels.

1. Remove the top two bolts, above and to the rear of the electrical panel
2. Remove the top screws for the rear side body panels.
3. On the left rear body panel, remove the upper and lower screws.
4. Now remove the rear body panels. Some careful jiggling will release the tabs from the panels they are connected to.

[detours]

After these steps, the tail assembly will be loose enough to reveal the turn signal bolts.

1. Remove the side screws of the tail assembly (both sides).
2. Remove the bottom screw of the tail assembly (both sides).
3. Remove the side bolts of the tail assembly (both sides).
4. With some gentle jiggling, you can move the tail assembly up and back enough to expose the turn signal bolts.

Note: If the tail assembly still doesn't move, look for any bolts I may have missed.

[detours]

The electrical panel cover is attached with four bolts. Remove the bolts and lift out the tray. (I actually did this first, but I didn't want to edit my previous posts.)

[detours]

Turn the key off to do the electrical work in this part. 12 volts isn't enough to hurt you (you can't even feel it), but you could still short out something by mistake. Many recommend disconnecting the battery.

The tail lights and turn signals are located in a water resistant rubber boot at the rear of the electrical panel.

1. Clip the ziptie closing the top of the boot.
2. Roll back the sides to expose the wiring.

The turn signals use 3.5mm bullet connectors. These are the same size as the bullet connectors on the 4-wire turn signals, so they will plug right in and will be usable immediately.

However, the tail and brake lights use a unique 3-wire harness and connector. This will require some splicing to wire up, which I will cover in Part 2 next week.

[detours]

Finally, it's time to unbolt the left rear turn signal.

Important: Unbolt one side at a time, so you can keep track of which side uses which wires.

1. Unbolt the left turn signal. There isn't much room, so it may take a while to wrench it loose.
2. Follow the wires and carefully unplug the left turn signal's bullet connectors from the harness.
3. Gently pull the wires out. Be careful not to lose the nuts and washers (1 flat washer, 1 split washer and 1 nut).
4. The stock turn signals also have an oval washer that fits into a molded shape on the outside of the signal mount. Unstring this washer from the stock turn signal wires.

[detours]

Remember to install the turn signals one at a time, so you don't forget which wires go where.

1. On the new 4-wire turn signal, unscrew the nut and remove the washers.
2. Thread the oval washer onto the wires of the new 4-wire signal.
3. Install the left turn signal by threading the wires through the mounting hole. Make sure the oval washer fits into its spot.
4. On the inside of the tail assembly thread the nut and washers onto the wires in this order: flat washer, split washer, nut. I reused the RX3 nuts and washers, but you don't have to.
5. Thread the wires around the back of the seat release. Do not let them go under or they could get caught in the release mechanism.
6. Connect the black ground wire from the turn signal to the green wire in the harness.
7. Connect the yellow turn signal wire to the remaining wire.
8. Test your connections by turning the key and clicking the turn signal. The yellow should light up. If not, make sure the bullet connectors are fully seated and test it again.
9. Point the turn signal to the rear and tighten the bolt. Congratulations!

[detours]

1. Now repeat Steps 6 and 7 with the right rear turn signal.
2. When you are done, both turn signals will function normally, as seen in this 'after' pic of my hazard lights flashing.
3. Follow the steps in reverse order to bolt the tail assembly and body panels back on.

In Part 2, where I splice in the running lights, brake and tail lights, you will only have to remove the electrical panel. The hard part is done

[dpl096]

Excellent tutorial ... looking forward to final installation and your full review

[woodlandsprite]

Detours,
Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial.
Question - why did you have to obtain additional bullet terminals? Perhaps I'm confusing myself as I have not yet had my coffee and am just coming back from vacation and not nearly enough sleep

I am looking forward to reading the remainder of your tutorial and attempting a similar installation

[detours]

Thanks Sprite! In order to wire up the extra running light and brake light on the new turn signals, I have to tap into the stock license plate light and brake light wires.

I could have just cut and spliced the wires together, but I like to keep things as close to stock as possible. So I ordered some 3-way bullet terminals to simplify installation.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182128958020

[woodlandsprite]

ah - good to know, and I'm glad you are going this route as I hope it makes the install easier for those of us (like me) somewhat freaked out about touching the wiring

[detours]

Here's a link to Part 2! It turned out great and I highly recommend this mod to everyone!

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=16777

[woodlandsprite]

*sigh* looking through your instructions it looks like you run with no side bags on your bike, is that right? Just making sure....looks like I might have all the parts on hand but looks like I have a bit more to take off the back end of the bike. I guess the good news is CSC has the tutorial on how to put the bags and bars on the back end of the bike so I can follow that in reverse...